The Adobo Road Cookbook. Marvin Gapultos
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BANANA KETCHUP/SAUCE: A sweeter, fruitier version of tomato ketchup, banana ketchup is, indeed, made from bananas. A popular condiment in the Philippines, banana ketchup is used as a dip for fries and a topping for burgers, but is also used with grilled meats and is a primary ingredient in Filipino Spaghetti (page 64). Artificially dyed a bright red hue to resemble tomato ketchup, banana ketchup can be easily found in Asian markets and in the Ethnic aisle of some supermarkets, but an all-natural and delicious version can be easily made at home (see page 24).
BANANA LEAVES: The large, pliable leaves of the banana tree are used for wrapping any number of steamed, grilled, or baked food items. The banana leaf not only makes for a great cooking vessel and “to-go” wrapper, but it also imbues a fragrant grassy aroma to whatever food is held inside.
BAY LEAVES: One of the primary ingredients in adobo s (page 68), it is also known as “laurel,” and imparts a depth of warmth and flavor with subtle woody and floral notes. Either dried or fresh bay leaves can be used, though the dried variety tends to have a stronger aroma and flavor than the fresh variety.
BITTER MELON (AMPALAYA): Also known as bitter gourd, are pale green in color with an irregular wrinkly surface and are, indeed, quite bitter in flavor. Bitter melons are reputed to have an abundance of health benefits and are used in dishes throughout the Philippines, though they are mostly used in the northern part of the archipelago.
CALAMANSI: Calamansi limes (also kalamansi or calmondin) are small citrus fruits that have the fragrance of mandarin oranges and the sour citrus flavor of lemons and limes. Calamansi limes are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter and range in color from green to orange. A squeeze, a squirt, or a spritz of calamansi nectar brightens up any dish—from noodles, to soups, to grilled meats and fish. Calamansi juice is also great when mixed into desserts and cocktails as well. Calamansi can sometimes be found at Asian markets or even at local farmers’ markets, so if you ever encounter these fragrant orbs, be sure to buy in bulk! I’ve found that 1 lb (500 g) of calamansi limes often yields between ¾ cup (185 ml) to 1 cup (250 ml) of juice. But the best way to ensure a steady supply of these wonderful limes is to grow your own tree in your back yard. Potted calamansi trees can often be found in the nursery department of hardware stores, and the small potted trees can be purchased online as well. And of course, fresh lemon juice or lime juice can always be substituted for calamansi.
BOK CHOY: A mild Chinese cabbage, it is favored in Filipino cooking because of its crunchy texture and versatility. And because it cooks so quickly, bok choy can be added at the last moment to stir-fries and soups to add crunch and a vibrant green color.
CASSAVA (KAMOTENG KAHOY): Cassava (also known as yucca or manioc) is a large tuber native to South America. Because of its very high starch content, cassava is primarily used in desserts and cakes in Filipino cuisine.
CHAYOTE (SAYOTE): Chayote (also known as mirliton) is a green pear-shaped squash with a large single seed in the center. Chayote is mild in flavor but retains a firm texture even when cooked, so it is often used in soups and stews in Filipino cuisine.
COCONUT MILK: Coconut milk is made from the shredded flesh of mature brown coconuts that is mixed with water and pressed. Coconut milk made from the first pressing is thicker and richer, while subsequent pressings produce thinner and less flavorful coconut milk. Although freshly made coconut milk is preferred in the Philippines, canned unsweetened coconut milk can be used with equally wonderful results. I prefer the Chaokoh and Arroy-D brands of canned coconut milk from Thailand, as they both are consistently flavorful and creamy. When working with canned coconut milk, always give the can a vigorous shake before opening, and then after opening the can, use a spoon to stir the coconut milk again before adding it to your dish.
DRIED RED PEPPER FLAKES: I use these spicy flakes to add a hint of heat to dishes when I don’t have fresh chili peppers on hand—though sometimes I use both at the same time to achieve different layers of spice.
EDAM CHEESE: Believe it or not, Edam cheese is a common ingredient in Filipino cuisine. Spheres of the Dutch cheese covered in red wax are traditionally given as Christmas gifts in the Philippines. The savory cheese is often grated onto many Filipino desserts as a salty counterpoint. Keep in mind that the Edam found in Asian markets is usually specifically marketed towards Filipinos and therefore tends to be saltier than Edam found in other grocery stores. Gouda makes a great substitute if you can’t find Edam.
EVAPORATED MILK: A convenience food introduced by the Americans, evaporated milk is milk that is boiled and processed until it has lost about half of its water content and then canned and sterilized. Canned evaporated milk is used primarily in Filipino desserts.
FERMENTED BLACK BEANS: Also known as Chinese dried black beans, these salty beans are made from fermented black soybeans and are used to season soups, stews, meats, and poultry. They can be found in Asian markets and are usually sold in plastic bags or cardboard containers. I prefer the Yang Jiang brand in a plastic bag.
FERMENTED FISH/SHRIMP PASTE (BAGOONG) : A very pungent and salty condiment that can be made from tiny fish or tiny shrimp. Bagoong alamang (also labeled as shrimp fry) is perhaps the most commonly available type of shrimp paste available in the States, and is often sautéed with garlic and shallots (page 26) and used as a condiment to enhance any number of dishes that need a salty kick.
FISH SAUCE (PATIS): Ubiquitous throughout Southeast Asia, fish sauce is an essential ingredient in Filipino cooking and is used not only to impart saltiness, but savoriness (umami) as well. Fish sauce is made from fermented anchovies. Although it has a very pungent aroma, if used properly it will not make your food taste “fishy.” Fish sauce can be used to season cooked dishes, but it can also be used as part of a dipping sauce (page 27). Shop for fish sauce that is light amber in color and labeled as being made from the first extraction of the fish. Keep in mind that the saltiness in fish sauce varies by brand. Rufina is a good brand of Filipino fish sauce, but Three Crabs (Vietnam), Red Boat (Vietnam) and Squid (Thailand) are also very good brands of fish sauce.
GINGER (LUYA): A rhizome rather than a root, ginger imparts a bright, sweet, zesty, and spicy flavor that I love to put into nearly everything I cook. When shopping for ginger, look for smooth and tight skin without any blemishes. Ginger with wrinkles tend to be older and more fibrous.
GREEN MANGO: Green mangoes are simply firm, unripe mangoes prized for their sour flavor. Usually sliced and served with bagoong for a salty-sour snack, green mangoes can also provide texture and tartness to raw salads. Look for green mangoes that are very firm and have a pale green skin. You can find green mangoes in Asian markets.
GREEN PAPAYA: Green papayas are simply unripe papayas that are mild in flavor rather than sweet. Green papayas have dark green skins with a firm white flesh and a cluster of seeds in the middle of the fruit. Green papaya is often pickled (page 22) but it is also used in a variety of Filipino soups.
JICAMA (SINKAMAS): A South American tuber, jicama is round with brown skin and white flesh. Because of its crispy texture, jicama is often eaten raw in salads, or even sliced like an apple and dipped in bagoong. I like to use jicama with smooth brown skins and that are