Everyday Thai Cooking. Katie Chin
gives each curry paste its distinct color depends on whether curry powder or chilies have been added to the mix. Yellow curry paste gets its color from curry powder, which contains turmeric, and is the sweetest kind of curry paste. Green curry paste contains green chilies and has a brighter, sharper flavor than other curry pastes. Thick red curry paste gets its color and bold spiciness from red chilies. A sealed container of curry paste can last up to a month in the refrigerator. My favorite brands are Maesri and Mae Ploy.
Curry powder Curry powder is traditionally made from ground turmeric, coriander, cumin, and dried red pepper. Curry powder gives yellow curry its distinct color and slightly sweet, tangy flavor. Curry powder’s flavor “opens up” when heated, most often in coconut milk or oil. Curry powder is widely available in the spice section of your grocery store. American brands tend to run on the mild side, so go to an Asian or Indian market if you prefer a spicier curry powder.
Dark soy sauce Made from fermented soybeans, dark soy sauce is aged longer and is slightly sweeter and thicker than regular soy sauce. It sometimes contains molasses or caramel to deepen its color and thicken its consistency. Heating dark soy sauce releases its full, rich flavor in sauces and gravies used in stir-fries and noodle dishes like Pad Wee Ew and Thai Flat noodles. It is also a popular ingredient in marinades and dipping sauces. Dark soy sauce can keep for a long time in a cool, dry place. Discontinue use if it has any crystallization around the opening of the bottle or shows any thickening at the bottom of the bottle. You can find dark soy sauce at Asian markets and some specialty stores.
Chilies There are almost as many varieties of chilies as there are cultures. Thai chilies happen to be some of the hottest. Small or long, green or red, dried or fresh, Thai chilies are used in everything from curries and soups to sauces and flavored vinegar. The two most popular varieties are long Thai chili and small Thai chili. Small, bird or bird’s-eye chili, is more common in the United States than long Thai chili, and ranges from mild to very hot. Wear rubber gloves when cutting hot chilies, or be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards to avoid getting the oil on your face or in your eyes. Also, wash cutting surfaces after chopping chilies or you may transfer the heat to other foods. I recommend using fresh jalapeño or Serrano chilies if you can’t find Thai chilies. Deseed chilies if you prefer less heat or omit altogether or choose a milder type if cooking for young children.
Dried shrimp paste This pungent paste is made from fermented dried shrimp and salt and is used to make curry pastes, sauces, and soups. Sold in small jars or blocks, a little goes a long way! Dried shrimp paste should be used sparingly as it’s quite pungent and strong in aroma. You’ll only need this ingredient to make Roasted Red Chili Paste (page 23) in this book. Dried shrimp paste is available at Asian markets.
Fish sauce (nam pla) No Thai kitchen is complete without a bottle of fish sauce. In fact that goes for every kitchen throughout Southeast Asian. I collect bottles of fish sauce like other people collect bottles of wine. Fish sauces range from mild to strong and smoky to pungent. The finest ones are clear and light amber in color. Fish sauce is made from layering anchovies and salt in a sealed container for about six months then siphoning off the fermented liquid. Fish sauce’s signature fishy, briny aroma dissipates when cooked. It emboldens and brings together the other flavors in any dish. I prefer ones with no sugar added so that the fishy aroma shines through. Fish sauce doesn’t need to be refrigerated. It will keep indefinitely in the cupboard. As a general rule, 1 tablespoon of fish oil equals 1 teaspoon of salt. A good substitute is soy sauce mixed with a splash of oyster sauce or anchovy paste.
Five spice powder As the name suggests, this is a combination of five ground spices: star anise, Sichuan pepper, fennel, cloves and cinnamon. Complexly pungent and spicy with a hint of sweetness, it can be found in Asian markets and some grocery stores.
Galangal is similar to ginger, but galangal has a more lemony, piney taste and less pungent heat. Harder than ginger, with a thicker, tougher skin, galangal distinguishes itself by its lovely pink color. Rarely used on its own, galangal is a lovely complement to lemongrass, garlic, chili, and onions in curries, soups, and stir-fries. A wonderful meat tenderizer, galangal is also a popular ingredient in rubs and marinades. If you have trouble finding galangal, fresh ginger is a fine substitute.
Ginger is an incredibly popular ingredient in Thai and other Asian cuisines, fresh ginger has a spicy, sweet, peppery bite that is unmistakable. heavy, firm pieces of fresh ginger are the best. The most flavorful part of the root is the meat closest to the peel, so trim ginger with a light touch. The peel can be used to make a deliciously spicy and soothing tea. Powdered ginger is also available, but isn’t as flavorful as fresh ginger.
Hoisin sauce is traditionally made from red rice brewed with soybean paste, garlic, sugar, star anise, chili paste, and other spices. It ranges in color from reddish brown to mahogany. It is a favorite marinade, glaze, and dipping sauce. Hoisin sauce has a very strong taste that can overpower other ingredients, so add it to a dish a little bit at a time until you get the flavor and heat you desire. Although nothing can truly match the flavor of hoisin sauce, Chinese barbecue sauce or tomato sauce blended with oyster sauce work can substitute in a pinch. Hoisin sauce is widely available at many grocery stores and Asian markets.
Jasmine rice is revered in Thailand as it is in other Asian countries so much so that is also referred to as “noble” rice or “beautiful” rice. Most Thai meals are accompanied by jasmine rice which is an aromatic, long- grain rice that is tender and slightly sticky when cooked. Considered by many to be the most fragrant rice in the world, jasmine rice has a sweet, nutty aroma. Thailand produces the highest quality variety, but very good jasmine rice is also grown in texas. Thai cooking mostly calls for white jasmine rice, but brown jasmine rice is available as well.
Kaffir lime leaves have a distinct hourglass shape, glossy shine, and a complex aroma that evokes orange, clove, lime, and citrus. Whole or sliced leaves are commonly used as a garnish or added to curries, stir-fries, soups, and salads. Kaffir lime leaves can also be crushed or ground to add a deliciously tangy and citrusy flavor to sauces. Dried kaffir lime leaves don’t have much flavor, so a better substitute would be young, fresh lemon, lime, or grapefruit leaves. Kaffir lime leaves are not easy to find so i’ve made them optional for the recipes in this book.
Lemongrass has a delicious lemony woodsy flavor without the acidity or sharpness of an actual lemon. The most tender and edible parts of this thin, reedy plant are the bulb and lower 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) of the inner core. Chopped, sliced or ground, fresh lemongrass is used in curry pastes and soups, and pairs especially well with galangal. Buy fresh lemongrass in bunches at Asian markets or at some farmers markets during the summer. Chopped fresh lemongrass freezes well, which comes in handy when a bowl of soothing lemongrass-scented soup is desired on a cold winter’s night. A substitute for lemongrass is sliced lime leaves, or sliced lime or lemon rind. If fresh lemongrass isn’t available you can use frozen lemongrass or minced lemongrass in a tube available in the produce section of some grocery stores.
Oyster sauce Brewed from dried oysters, salt and water, oyster sauce has a deep, rich brown color. The best varieties are thick and rich, with a distinct oyster aroma, which dissipates when cooked. Oyster sauce is slightly sweet and makes a less salty alternative to soy sauce. It is used as an ingredient in stir-fries, a table condiment,