Scotland's Best Small Mountains. Kirstie Shirra
promontory not far from Ben More’s crags are the remains of the Pictish fort of Dun Canna.
More recently, the settlements of Achiltbuie, Culnacraig and others came into being as people crofted the land and fished off its shores. Perhaps surprisingly, the post office has played a role too. The current 10km path from Blughasary, and a potential route to Ben More Coigach, was formed by a hardy postman delivering the mail to Achiltibuie from Ullapool.
Route
From the car parking area walk left down the road to cross the bridge. Take a small path off to the left just after the bridge to climb steeply northeast (this path looks as if it is used by sheep more than people). At about 280m the path levels out and heads southeast towards Garbh Choireachan and the start of the ridge.
The path divides soon afterwards – go right to continue towards the ridge, contouring southeast still. The path disappears just before the gorge of the Allt nan Coisiche, or ‘walker’s burn’, but bear east along the burn to find a crossing place. Once across, head southeast again towards the end of the ridge. This is ascended on the west side by bearing east all the way to the top and making use of bits of sheep paths. While steep, and on some well-eroded rock, it is never too difficult.
Once on Garbh Choireachan (738m), follow the path along the hugely enjoyable ridge. It sticks to the west side to avoid some rockier sections, though there is the option of scrambling along the very top. This brings you to the summit of Ben More Coigach (743m) (094 042, 4km, 2hr). The view from here over to better-known neighbour Stac Pollaidh is spectacular and unique.
From the summit head northeast briefly until the gradient down to the left lessens, then head north diagonally down across short grass to the bealach (544m).
From the bealach the prominent peak of Sgurr an Fhidhleir (705m) (094 054, 6km, 2hr45) lies ahead. Climb northwest to gain the summit, and stunning views over its precipitous northern edge.
To return, head southeast, picking up a path that runs the length of the shoulder from the summit back to the junction where you originally turned right. This gentle descent allows you to take in the great view out over the sea to the Summer Isles. Once back on the original path, follow it back to the start (4hr, 10km).
Alternatives
One Peak Only
The route could be shortened by climbing either Sgurr an Fhidhleir by the same ascent as the descent, or Ben More Coigach by joining the path from the bealach, missing out the ascent of Sgurr an Fhidhleir (7.5km, 630m former; 8.5km, 710m latter).
Taking in Beinn nan Caorach and Cairn Conmheall
The route could be extended by continuing along the ridge from Sgurr an Fhidhleir to take in the tops of Beinn nan Caorach (649m) and Cairn Conmheall (541m). Rather than heading down the southeast shoulder from Sgurr an Fhidhleir, go southeast briefly then drop northwest to the bealach with the unnamed peak (648m). Ascend this (no paths) then follow the shoulder southwest to Beinn nan Caorach. From there, cross the broad plateau with little further climbing to Cairn Conmheall. Retrace your steps briefly to avoid crags and follow the burn down to the road (12km, 1100m, shown in blue).
Looking out to the Summer Isles from Sgurr an Fhidhleir
From the Northeast, following the Allt Claoniadh
Approach the peaks from the northeast following the Allt Claoniadh on a small path from the end of Loch Lurgainn, past Lochan Tuath, then up steeply to the bealach between Sgurr an Fhidhleir and Ben More Coigach (10km, 400m to/from bealach, shown in green).
TORRIDON AND THE NORTHWEST
Ling Hut and the Coire of the Hundred Hills
7
Beinn Ghobhlach (635m) ‘forked hill’
| Start | GR 055 918 |
| Distance | 12km |
| Ascent | 760m |
| Time | 4hr30 |
| Terrain | A remote rugged route that soon leaves all paths behind to climb rough heather then rocky slopes. Good navigation required. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 19, OS Explorer 435 |
| Getting there | Start at the parking area at the end of the road to Badrallach (055 918). The nearest public transport is to the other end of the road, about 11km away (Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com). |
| Something else | Visit the remote village of Scoraig and consider staying a few days to get away from it all, accommodation details at www.scoraig.com. |
Occupying a unique location on a remote peninsula, Beinn Ghobhlach offers the opportunity to really get away from it all. This wild and rugged walk with sea views also holds the possibility of eagles soaring overhead.
Beinn Ghobhlach easily qualifies as one of Scotland’s best small mountains because of its unique location. With Loch Broom to the north and Little Loch Broom to the south, Beinn Ghobhlach’s slopes descend to meet the sea on both sides of the remote Scoraig peninsula. In its isolated position, without any paths, it is a great place to escape to. Rich in wildlife and with great views over the Summer Isles and the pinnacles of the mighty peak of An Teallach, it is well worth visiting.
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