Walking in the Thames Valley. Steve Davison
alternative Thames Path that turns away from the river, but instead cross the river via the new bridge. Turn right following the left-hand riverbank under the bridge; The Trout Inn is on the far side of the river, accessible via the road bridge. Continue past St John’s Lock and Old Father Thames statue, and immediately after Ha’penny Bridge turn left up to the road and cross the river, retracing the route back to the Market Place.
St John’s Lock, the first lock on the river, is named after a medieval priory dedicated to St John the Baptist, built where the Trout Inn now stands. The first bridge over the river here was built in 1229, though the present structure is much more recent. Overlooking the lock is the recumbent figure of Old Father Thames, originally created for the 1851 Great Exhibition at Crystal Palace in London. The statue was later used to mark the source of the river before being moved to St John’s Lock in 1974.
WALK 2
Wiltshire Ridges and Liddington Castle
| Start/Finish | Parking at lay-by on B4192, 3 miles (4.8km) northwest of Aldbourne towards Liddington (SU230786) |
| Distance | 11½ miles (18.5km) |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 5 hours |
| Maps | OS Explorer 157/Landranger 174 |
| Refreshments | Aldbourne – The Blue Boar (01672 540237); Crown Hotel (01672 540214); Masons Arms (01672 540124); village shop |
| Transport | Thames Down buses between Swindon and Hungerford/Marlborough stop at Aldbourne |
| Note | This walk may also be started from Aldbourne (SU265756). |
The walk starts out in rolling countryside, where the Berkshire Downs become the Marlborough Downs, and follows a broad ridge down to the picturesque village of Aldbourne with its village green, duck pond and thatched cottages.
The return leg passes the site of the village of Snap, deserted just over 100 years ago, and the Iron Age hillfort of Liddington Castle. The hillfort, with its commanding position on the highest hill along the Ridgeway National Trail, offers some great views. The area is also rich in Neolithic long barrows, and several can be seen during the walk.
1 SU230786 From the lay-by walk down the road for 100m towards Aldbourne, and turn left through the gate. Go along the track signed ‘byway to Peaks Down’, following the left-hand fence through a gate and continue uphill. Go through the gate next to the byway sign and follow the fence on the left. Just before the gate leading into the trees, turn right and follow the track signposted ‘byway to Aldbourne 2’, keeping the trees on the left. After about 500m there is a well-defined tumulus on the right. Continue along the track and through a gate to reach Four Barrows – a collection of Neolithic burial mounds.
Three of the Four Barrows are bell barrows, built with a gap between the mound and the ditch; the fourth barrow is a bowl barrow, shaped like an upturned bowl. These types of burial chamber are characteristic of the early Bronze Age (2300–1200BC). During archaeological excavations two skeletons and two cremations were found along with amber beads, a grooved dagger, a stone axe and flint arrowheads.
The track passes to the right of the first three and then goes left before the last one to reach a gate. The route now follows the track down the broad ridge for ¼ miles (2km) to Aldbourne (alternative start point).
The name Aldbourne is derived from the Saxon word for stream – bourne, and a former local chief – Ealda. The interesting Church of St Michael, on the village green, was rebuilt in Gothic style but incorporates many Norman features from an earlier church. Inside there are some fine memorials, including one to Richard Goddard (d. 1492) and his wife Elizabeth of Upham House. There are also two old fire pumps, known locally as Adam and Eve. Originally bought after a disastrous fire in 1777 which damaged many houses, the pumps were last used for a barn fire in 1921.
The village has had several local trades including straw and willow weaving, though it was best known for its bell foundries. The first foundry was opened in 1694 by the Cor brothers, William and Robert. In 1760 a relation, Robert Wells, opened a second foundry which continued operating until the 1850s. It was once said that there were few places in north Wiltshire that were out of earshot of a bell cast in Aldbourne; the local church has three bells cast in the 18th century.
Interestingly, locals were once known as ‘Aldbourne dabchicks’. The story goes that a dabchick arrived on the village pond but the local residents couldn’t identify it; this amused the people of Ramsbury, who taunted their Aldbourne neighbours by shouting ‘dabchick’ after them!
In 1971 the village had a starring role in a Dr Who story when it was transformed into Devil’s End, with The Blue Boar pub being renamed The Cloven Hoof. During the final episode a realistic model of the church was blown up.
2 SU264759 Turn right down the lane, ignoring the path off to the left, to reach The Green in Aldbourne, with the church off to the right. Continue down the lane past the Blue Boar pub. On reaching The Square, with the pond ahead, turn right past the Crown Hotel and then right along the B4192 for ¾ mile (1.2km) – take care on the road.
St Michael’s Church in Aldbourne
Alternative route
To miss out the centre of the village go to the right passing the church and turn right up the lane next to the church wall. Just before the gate leading to the house, turn left along the signposted path between the wall and hedge. Continue past the school playground, cross the stile and across the field, keeping to the right of the buildings to reach a small gate in the fence; turn right along the B4192 to rejoin the route.
3 SU255762 At New Barn, on the right, turn left along the farm track. After 200m take the left-hand track, signposted ‘byway to Snap and Ridgeway’, up the valley for about 2 miles (3.2km) passing Lower Lodge Barn on the way; the other track goes to Upper Upham. Not long after High Clear Plantation, ignore the track on the right and keep ahead through the field, following the boundary on the left. After 300m turn left uphill following the track as it bears to the right. On the right, at the bend, is a small memorial to Snap Toothill School and the remains of the village of Snap.
A small plaque reads ‘In memory of the people of Snap Toothill School 5–8–1991’. All that remains of the village of Snap are a few piles of rubble hidden amongst the undergrowth and trees. The village, once part of the Aldbourne parish, dates back to at least 1377 when it was mentioned in connection with the Poll Tax. By the end of the 19th century the hamlet consisted of 15 houses, a school and chapel. However, with changes from labour-intensive arable farming to animal grazing, the residents had to move on to find work. By 1905 the village of Snap was abandoned except for the farm, though during World War I the area was used by the War Ministry as a training ground.
Continue, ignoring the paths to Woodsend and Snap Farm. Go through the gate and follow the track uphill, passing under the telegraph wires to another gate. Go straight on, passing between the fields for 300m to join the Ridgeway National Trail.
The Blue Boar pub in Aldbourne
Looking north from the ramparts of Liddington Castle
4 SU213765 Turn right along the track and, at the junction, follow the signs for the Ridgeway to the right for 50m and then left, with good views towards Liddington Hill. At the junction take the middle path – Ridgeway Path. After 350m go through the gate and then uphill, keeping close to the fence on the right. Once over the top of the hill, go through the gate next to some trees and continue across the field to another gate. On the left are the clearly defined earthworks of Liddington Castle hillfort.
Detour
Although not on the main track, a detour can be made along a permissive path to Liddington Castle. At the gate, follow the path to the left, keeping to the fence on the right; at the field corner