Ridges of Snowdonia. Steve Ashton

      INTRODUCTION

      This guide brings together the best ridge walks in Snowdonia. In describing them I have tried to be both readable and accurate, which explains the unusual ordering of the text. A summary of route information is given first, followed by a route description. The main routes are accompanied by a route profile and a map. The numbered points on the route profile are referred to in the route description by a small number (e.g. 1). General chit-chat follows, and this means you have the option to glance through one or the other section according to need, and without having to plough through an unnecessary amount of verbiage.

      Because the book is designed primarily for the hill-walking enthusiast, I have comandeered space traditionally reserved for introductory notes and lengthy topographical descriptions (using photographs to help compensate in this latter respect) in order to explore the hill-walking experience beyond what is normally allowed or admitted in a guide book. The resulting descriptions are progressive, to a certain extent, so that they can be read one after the other like chapters in a book.

      A more serious omission in the text is that of a discussion on natural history. However, it was felt that the subject is more than adequately covered in specialised publications. One inclusion – as an appendix – is a guide to pronunciation and meaning of some Welsh words used in the main body of the guide.

      For the benefit of those new to the area, or new to this style of walking, there are one or two general points and definitions worth emphasising.

      Ridge Walking

      The term is applied loosely throughout; so that in addition to following a narrow crest, a ridge walk may also be said to follow the high ground between summits, however broad it may be.

      Scrambling

      Sections of some of these routes follow narrow exposed ridges involving rock scrambling where hands are used to assist the ascent. While even the most awkward of those included here should be within the capability of seasoned walkers, it is worth remembering that adverse conditions of any kind may dramatically increase their difficulty.

      Ridge Walking in Winter

      These routes – without exception – are severely affected by winter weather and its ground conditions, making great demands on winter skills and navigating ability. An ice-axe is essential (so are crampons – even if these are held in reserve); but so too is the stamina and experience to cope with what can suddenly develop into a very serious expedition. Some of the scrambling routes – Snowdon Horseshoe and Bristly Ridge among them – can be totally transformed by winter conditions, becoming potential winter climbs of some difficulty.

      Variants to Routes

      Some of these are merely alternative starts or finishes, chosen to help ease a logistical problem with transport; whereas others – full ridge walks in their own rights – are included to broaden the scope in the more popular central areas.

      Access

      While access to all routes – as described – is presently accepted (though not guaranteed), the situation can be expected to change from time to time. This is especially true for ‘sensitive’ areas like Nantlle or the Arans. The Snowdonia National Park Authority have been effective in resolving recent access difficulties; but if an awkward situation should develop unexpectedly, then maintaining a diplomatic and considerate approach can only help in smoothing your passage.

      Distance, Heights, Times

      All such figures are approximate. To ease compatibility with current maps, the metric figure has been given priority. Route distances and height gains take some account of terrain (e.g. zig-zag paths), so that distances and gains measured straight from the map will always give a lower figure than the one stated in the summary. Times are given for good weather and without rest stops, and they should be treated with suspicion. They have been included primarily as a measure of relative – rather than absolute – time. That is, they are indicators of the time-consuming nature of the terrain as compared with another section of the route, or with another route altogether. Compare, for instance, the times/ distances given for the Snowdon Horseshoe and Carneddau Western Ridges.

      Maps

      There are a number of maps available – of various sizes, scales, and surveys – dealing with the Snowdonia area. However, the following combination is recommended for conciseness:

      Landranger Series: OS Sheet 115 (Snowdon), Scale 1:50,000; OS Sheet 124 (Dolgellau)

      Outdoor Leisure Series: 17 Snowdonia – Snowdon & Conwy Valley

      Weather Forecasts

      Consult the phone book for details of recorded weather forecasts. Daily forecasts are also pinned at strategic points around the park (e.g. Pen y Pass and Ogwen Cottage). These services are provided by the Snowdonia National Park Authority.

      Acknowledgements

      I would like to thank Tony Jones, Honorary Chairman of the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation, and Dr. Ieuan Jones, Specialist in Accident Surgery, for help in compiling the ‘Emergency Checklists’.

      I would also like to thank Del Davies for some route suggestions, and the staff of Plas y Brenin for the use of their library.

      A: THE CARNEDDAU

      Geography lacks the subtlety to describe the Carneddau ridges: their abrupt rise, and gradual fall, in sinuous fingers towards the sea. Ridges on a grand scale; ten mile undulating strips of grass and fine stones, ideally suited to the walker going fast and far. And none of the Glyders’ intricate hollows here; instead these cwms are hours long and thick with nature. But these hills are glorious only for as long as the sun shines. At other times they can be the most mind-numbing, leg-throbbing, body-chilling, toe-stubbing mountains of soil and stone this side of the Scottish border.

      Rock climbing takes a back seat. There are many little cliffs dotted about the southern slopes – pleasantly secluded places for sunny afternoons – but nothing of real significance. The few big cliffs are tucked close under the north faces, secure in their shadows yet unbelittled by the vastness of their setting. Craig yr Ysfa, on the Cwm Eigiau shoulder of Carnedd Llewelyn, is the best of them. There are many hard routes here, up the vertical Amphitheatre Walls so well seen from the ridge path above, but also a splendid easy one – Amphitheatre Buttress – on the opposing flank. An early start in full sunshine on this climb out of Cwm Eigiau can be an exhilarating way to begin a walk over the summits.

      The north-west ridge of Pen yr Helgi Du from Bwlch Eryl Farchog

      Winter transforms the Carneddau into a bleak and hostile wasteland. North winds blow unceasingly over the ridge crests during bad weather, so that a seemingly innocent walk becomes a struggle against time and tiredness. Fresh snow piles deep in intervening hollows, trebling approach times to the gaunt cliffs of Black Ladders and Craig yr Ysfa, now seamed with ice falls and snow gullies. A waiting game begins. Then, after the storm, when the winds have blown the ridges clear of powder, the Carneddau will offer uncomplicated winter traverses across miles of glistening uplands.

      The ridge walks described in the following pages represent the Carneddau at their best: great horseshoe circuits penetrating deep into the heartland of the range and linking summit with summit along high ridge crests. Nowhere is the ridge walker’s exalted position more clearly stated.

      A1:

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