Walking in the Ochils, Campsie Fells and Lomond Hills. Patrick Baker

      INTRODUCTION

Area Guide

      The Ochils, Campsie Fells and Lomond Hills form a prominent band of high ground across the central belt of Scotland, providing a dramatic backdrop to the nearby cities of Glasgow, Edinburgh and Perth. Overlooked by many walkers on their way to larger hills in the north, these three ranges provide uniquely wild, challenging and beautiful walks literally on the doorstep of many towns and cities. Ironically, it is perhaps their proximity to these major areas of population which means that although they are some of most accessible wild areas in the country, these hills remain a relatively uncrowded oasis for walkers.

      Formed from predominantly igneous rock, each of the ranges shows signs of volcanic creation, perhaps the most obvious indicators being the hills of Dumgoyne, Dumyat and West and East Lomond, whose conical shapes offer distinctive and appealing walks. The other main geological influence is glaciation, which has smoothed away rock to give characteristically broad, plateaued ridges and summits into which burns have gouged steep glens, creating precipitous gorges and waterfalls, in particular on the southern escarpment of the Ochils. The undulating nature of most of the hills is sharply contrasted by some large and spectacular crags and cliffs, most notably the breathtaking Corrie of Balglass in the Campsie Fells, and interesting quartz dolerite intrusions along the west-facing Lomond Hills.

      Collectively the three ranges combine a rich mixture of distinct neighbouring habitats, ranging from: montane moorland, ancient and managed forestry, deep lochs and reservoirs, fast-flowing burns and meandering rivers, to rocky crags and fertile carseland. The walker is thus treated to flora and fauna in greater abundance and of greater accessibility than in many of the larger, more remote ranges of Scotland.

      This guide offers a mixture of routes, including many popular peaks such as Ben Cleuch, Meikle Bin and West Lomond, as well as areas that are well off the beaten track. The walks have been chosen to reflect the diverse landscape that exists in these ranges, and affords as much importance to smaller peaks and lower-level walks as it does to larger hills and high traverses. Several of the walks include peaks known as ‘Donalds’ – hills in lowland Scotland over 2000ft that have a drop of 100ft on all sides. They are named after Percy Donald, who compiled the original list of these hills.

      Evening sun on the Ochils

      While some walks are justifiably popular and lined with obvious tracks and paths, walkers are also encouraged to explore routes following the natural lines of ridges and glens where few or no paths exist, so that the guide not only gives details for enjoying some classic routes, but also acts as a starting point for linking and creating endless combinations of different routes. The majority of walks included are circular, and wherever possible start from a suitable place to park a car.

Flora

      Human intervention has altered the landscape in this area from almost completely woodland-covered hills hundreds of years ago, to what is now largely characterised by either grassy plateaued peaks colonised by sheep and livestock, or high, heather-strewn moorland and peat bogs.

      At lower levels the slopes are often covered with gorse and broom, which produce large, vibrant patches of yellow as the plants flower from spring into summer. Bracken also proliferates on the lower slopes, providing excellent cover for birds and mammals, as well as enriching seasonal colours as it turns from lush green in summer to deeper browns in autumn, perfectly complementing the purple flowering of the dominant local heather, ling.

      Heather in bloom

      Ancient or regenerated natural woodland is also found, mainly on the lower reaches of the hills, in particular on the steep-sided glens of the Ochils and Campsie Fells, where trees that would previously have been felled for fuel or industrial purposes are now assured regenerative protection from sheep and deer by enclosed fencing. Fine examples of these pockets of predominantly deciduous woodland can be seen at Dollar Glen, Mill Glen, Alva Glen and Menstrie Glen in the Ochils, and Campsie Glen and Fin Glen in the Campsie Fells. Amongst the most recognisable trees to be seen are: oak, birch, ash, sycamore, rowan, horse chestnut, beech, elm, larch and Scots pine.

      Commercial afforestation has also played a conspicuous and controversial role in changing the appearance of these hills, with unmistakable areas of densely packed coniferous forestry (mainly spruce) evident from almost anywhere in each of the three ranges. The largest and highest plantation of this kind is to be found completely encircling Carron Valley Reservoir and almost reaching the summit of the Campsie Fells' second largest hill, Meikle Bin. There is also afforestation of a different kind in several areas south of Glen Devon in the Ochils, where the Woodland Trust has secured large areas of hillside to reintroduce native species of tree.

      Wild pansy

      On a smaller scale, there is a profusion of flowering plants from early spring through to early autumn. Flowers such as snowdrops provide brightness early in the year, after which the short-lived bluebell and the forget-me-not produce spectacular eruptions of blue under the forest canopy. In summer, on relatively dry hilltops, flowers including the harebell, meadow buttercup, white clover, and the beautiful wild pansy, can be seen in abundance amongst grasses such as sheep's fescue, wavy hair grass and mat grass. The fluffy white fruiting heads of cotton grass are also a particularly common summer sight on high walks, and a good indicator of boggy areas, where pretty bog asphodel and the carnivorous sundew also thrive in these damper conditions. The western end of the Ochils supports one of the largest national populations of the rare, sticky catchfly flower, which can be found on the slopes of Dumyat and in Menstrie Glen. Scotland's national flower, the thistle, also makes sporadic appearances, usually in the form of the common spear thistle which flowers in late summer.

      Forget-me-not in bloom in the Ochils

Mammals

      Even the briefest period of time spent in these hills will lead to an encounter with wildlife in some shape or form, adding a rewarding dimension to a day's walk. The largest animals to be found are deer. While herds of red deer can occasionally be spotted in the Carron Valley between the Campsie Fells and Fintry Hills, the smaller and more solitary roe deer is more likely to be seen. Habitually shy, roe deer

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