The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central. Alan Castle

The Grand Traverse of the Massif Central - Alan Castle


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section is always to dismount and push the bike, and even this may not be that easy, so be sure to get plenty of practice pushing and riding a heavily laden bike over steep ground.

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      It is hard work pushing uphill (Stage 11)

      Perhaps the most common ailment that befalls travellers abroad is stomach upset or diarrhoea. Rest and light meals often provide the best cure, although a non-prescription medicine will help to ease the symptoms. Failure to correct stomach upsets can lead to weakness, dehydration and further complications.

      Colds and other minor ailments are usually easily treatable with medication from a pharmacist (small supermarkets, grocers and newsagents in France do not usually stock medicines such as paracetamol, aspirin and cold relief powders), but it is advisable to include basic medications in a first-aid kit.

      Over-exposure to the sun and heat stroke are other problems to be avoided at all costs. Always wear a helmet when cycling, but otherwise a sun hat, and sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. If the weather becomes very hot, then set off early in the morning and have a long siesta during the heat of the day. Drink plenty of liquid to prevent dehydration, and cover exposed skin that is unused to a southern sun.

      Mountain bikers should pay particular attention to the contents of their first-aid kit, ensuring that they have enough dressings and antiseptic to cope with the cuts and bad grazing that might result from a fall. Some means of strapping a limb until assistance is found is a good idea, and if you are travelling in a group, at least one member of the group should consider going on a first-aid course before the holiday.

      The European viper, or adder, is not uncommon in the Massif Central, and a bite, although unlikely to be fatal, would be exceedingly unpleasant. It could also have serious consequences in more sparsely populated regions, where help may not be quickly available. Vipers are less of a threat to the biker than to the walker (except of course when the former is pushing his or her bike, which no doubt will happen from time to time on the GTMC).

      Fortunately, snakes are fairly secretive animals, likely to detect a walker's presence by vibrations along the ground and take avoiding action, but do keep a good lookout for them, in order to avoid accidentally treading on one. It is a good idea to be familiar with the markings of the European viper (dark green/black in colour with characteristic zigzag stripes on the upper surface), although the chances are that the GTMC will be completed without ever catching sight of even one.

      A bite from a viper can result in considerable bruising, discolouration and swelling of the surrounding area, and in the unlikely event that you are bitten, be sure to rest, avoid a panic reaction, and get medical help as soon as possible.

      The emergency services (medical help, police or fire brigade) can be reached by dialling 112. This service is staffed by French speakers, and they are unlikely to speak much English, but there is an ‘SOS Help’ service in English, which can be contacted by dialling 01.47.32.80.80, or from a UK mobile, 00.33.1.47.32.80.80 (it would be sensible to programme this into your mobile before you set off).

      The French, like the British, are not particularly keen on learning foreign languages. Many younger people can speak some English, but in general do not expect the level of fluency found in Holland, Germany or Scandinavia. This is particularly true of the rural areas of the Massif Central. It is a good idea to brush up ‘rusty’ French before the holiday, as even the most elementary grasp of the language will pay dividends by enriching your experience in France. However, no true adventurer will be discouraged by an inability to speak the local tongue, even if it necessitates the occasional use of sign language!

      The unit of currency in France is the euro. Credit and debit cards are accepted widely, and are a useful form of payment for hotel bills, restaurant meals and rail tickets.

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