Walking in Corsica. Gillian Price

      Refuge de Ciottulu i Mori (Walk 8)

      In addition, unless otherwise indicated in walk descriptions, all of the gîtes d’étape listed have self-cooking facilities (coin cuisine), for which a small fee applies. A panier-repas, or packed picnic lunch, is another possibility if you ask ahead.

      The only drawback occasionally encountered at the gîtes d’étape is late opening in the morning. Should you require petit-déjeuner (breakfast) before the official time, don’t hesitate to ask, as some helpful places will lay out the food beforehand and leave you to make your own hot drink. In any case it’s always good practice to settle your bill in the evening to save precious time the day after.

      You’ll need a sleeping sheet (though they can occasionally be rented) and your own towel – hot showers are always available. Book at least one day ahead (phone numbers are given in each walk description), more at peak holiday time. Most places are family-run affairs and they need due warning in order to be able to plan meals. A smattering of French will go a long way, especially when booking accommodation on the phone. (Italian won’t go amiss either, as it is similar to the Corsican language itself.) Don’t arrive too early as doors may not be opened until around 4pm. Some gîtes even offer to transport rucksacks for groups to villages ahead at a modest price.

      Carry plentiful cash (euros) with you on the long-distance routes as the gîtes normally do not accept credit cards (not that they are widely accepted in the island’s hotels or restaurants, for that matter). Eurocheques are not smiled upon either as they entail a hefty surcharge. ATMs are plentiful in tourist towns, mostly on the coast, but are rare as hen’s teeth in the inland villages – as are banks. Be warned!

      Before you set out it’s also a good idea to purchase a prepaid phone card as the public telephones no longer accept coins. Most villages have a public phone, though a shop selling cards may be harder to find.

      Modest hotels abound in tourist spots and have been listed where relevant to walks. After many nights in the communal hostels you may feel the need to treat yourself to some luxury.

      Dotted along the high mountain paths are also refuge huts run by the PNRC, Corsica’s Park Authority. They are open year-round, but manned only from June to October, when there is radio contact for emergencies. They charge a fee for dormitory-style accommodation, shared cooking (fully equipped kitchen) and washing facilities (WC and solar-heated shower), and wood-fuelled heating, but provide no meals or bedding. Basic food supplies are sometimes on sale. Refuges operate on a first-in first-served basis. Several are touched on during the itineraries in this guide and details given.

      If you don’t mind the extra weight, a tent and sleeping bag can spell a really cheap holiday. Wild camping is not permitted along any of the long-distance routes or in the realms of the National Park, but for a modest fee you can pitch in the immediate vicinity of both the gîtes d’étape and refuges, and have full use of the facilities. Corsica also has a multitude of camping grounds dotted around the island. Contact the local tourist offices listed for details.

Food and Drink

      The island’s cooking is basically French in the main tourist centres, but has retained its local flavour in the mountain villages and out-of-the-way places. On the coast you’ll hopefully be offered the taste sensation soupe de poisson (fish soup), a delicate smooth seafood mixture served with croutons which are to be rubbed with fresh garlic and floated with a mayonnaise-mustard sauce, topped with grated cheese. Civet de sanglier or boar stew needs to be tasted at least once. The island’s unusual cheeses are many and varied. Invariably tangy, either the richer ewe’s milk brebis, smothered in dried maquis herbs, or the drier fromage de chèvre (goat) are must-try experiences. They may be served with fig conserve and even walnuts to cut the saltiness. Another cheese variety is soft white brocciu, flavoured with wild mint, which is melted in pastries or cannelloni.

      The islanders have made some commendable adaptations to French paté, with the well-sung paté de merle traditionally made with blackbirds – though supposedly outlawed nowadays. In the charcuterie range, figatellu or pork liver sausage should be on your list too.