The Adlerweg. Mike Wells
beaches of glacial fluor (white limestone sand eroded by the glaciers) indicate the locations of the ancient lakes.
This is an ever changing landscape. Frequent landsides and washouts either block or widen rivers. Attempts are made each year to restore paths after winter damage, but when deterioration becomes irreparable, paths may be closed or diverted.
Plants
The overwhelming determinant of plantlife found along the Adlerweg is altitude, particularly the tree line. This, the altitude beyond which trees cannot survive, is found around 1800m on north facing slopes, but can reach nearly 2000m at favoured south facing locations. At lower altitudes, up to approx 1400m, mixed forests dominate with broadleaf deciduous trees like beech and oak growing alongside conifers. Woodland flowers and berries, particularly wild raspberries, grow in clearings between the trees. A wide range of edible fungi is in evidence, and local residents can often be found collecting them for the kitchen.
As altitude increases, so mixed forest gives way to coniferous forest with spruce, pine, fir, juniper and larch all in evidence. Of note is zirbe, a fir with candelabra shaped branches, the smooth wood of which is favoured for woodcarving and vernacular furniture. Zirbe grows close to the tree line, particularly on the upper north slopes of Patscherkofel where it gives its name to Zirbenweg (Stage 13). Just below the tree line, full-grown trees give way to dwarf conifers (krummholz), which grow sideways rather than upwards.
Harebell (Campanula)
The high meadow above the tree line is the alpine zone, rich with alpine flowers. Of particular note, and easy to spot are blue harebells (campanula). Slightly rarer are vivid blue trumpet gentians and the pink flowered evergreen shrub, alpenrose. Most renowned, but rarest of all, is the white edelweiss. Above this zone, where lingering snow often covers sparse grass on thin soil and bare rock, you can find bright pink flower cushions of rock jasmine and various lichen and mosses.
Edelweiss (photo: Christine Gordon)
Wildlife
A wide variety of birds, mammals, reptiles and insects are found along the Adlerweg. Many of these, including foxes, red squirrels, hares and roe deer, can be found in Britain, but there are three mammals that particularly epitomise the high alpine environment.
Grassy higher slopes with rocky outcrops are marmot country. These large rodents are instantly recognisable by the piercing ‘wolf-whistle’ warning calls of the adult males. Living as family groups in burrows 3m deep, they eat plant greenery, growing to a maximum weight of 6kg by late September. They hibernate beneath the snows, living off their body fat, until they re-emerge much slimmed down in April. Marmots are found at many places along the route, and sightings are guaranteed.
The second most likely high mountain mammal to be seen is the chamois (gams). These timid, skittish creatures of the antelope family inhabit barely accessible high slopes where they move with amazing sure-footedness. They are often heard before they are seen, as they run across the slopes generating a rocky clatter from falling scree. Fully grown they reach just 75cm in height and have short straightish horns that hook backwards towards the tip. They live in groups of up to thirty individuals, mostly females and juveniles, with older males living a solitary life.
The eponymous zirbe (pine) growing alongside Zirbenweg (Stage 13)
The ibex (steinbock), a herbivorous member of the goat family, is the largest of the three mountain mammals. Males grow to 1m with large backward facing horns, while females are about half this size. Days are spent on rocky slopes above the tree line where they are safe from predators. In late afternoon, they descend to feed on leaves and shrubs in the forest, where they can sometimes be seen standing on their hind legs to reach juicy higher leaves. Ibex were severely depleted by hunting, but numbers are now increasing.
Black alpine choughs (alpendohle) with yellow beaks and red legs are ubiquitous birds, performing aerial acrobatics over the mountaintops. Pairing for life, they nest on rocky cliff ledges at a higher altitude than any other bird species. Seemingly unafraid of humans, they will often try to plunder your lunchtime sandwiches.
The only way to be sure to see a golden eagle (adler) is to visit Innsbruck Alpen zoo (Stage 12), where a rather sad looking captive pair inhabit a large aviary. There are 12 pairs living in Karwendelgebirge, although if you are lucky enough to see one in the wild it is unlikely to be more than a mere dot high in the sky. They are ferocious predators with a wingspan of 2m and powerful talons that can sieze creatures as large as small roe deer.
What to take
Clothing
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