The High Atlas. Hamish Brown
like), which was not at all scrabbly. A gully and onto snow led us to the crest just west of the highest point, 3265m – a more enjoyable ascent than Ayyachi’s. We only caught glimpses of white Ayyachi through the tearing clouds so were not lingering. Using snow rims and screes we descended quickly. Ali, ahead, had stopped in the forest and lit a fire so we had welcome brews. We made Tounfite before the storm. At supper we had the loudest crack of thunder I’ve ever heard. It rattled the café and set children howling.
A decorative Atlas door
ROUTE FOUR
Jbel Hayane 2410m
| Commitment | The easiest walk in this book, a good summit to take in during a passing road journey. |
| Maps | 100: Azrou. A road map that shows the hill and the road would suffice. |
| Texts | Mailly alone just mentions the hill – for skiing (so I suspect flocks do move out). My description above is ample. |
| Travel to start | 8.5km piste off the R13 Azrou–Midelt road, and own transport essential. Could be done as a day-outing from Fes. Allow 3hrs for the traverse. |
| Local assistance | Not needed. |
This small outrider of the cedar country rewards with a gentle day’s walk.
Hayane was climbed in September 2000, and although of modest height it is the highest summit in the wedge of cedar-forest country held by the Azrou–Khenifra–Zeïda roads. We had walked through the cedars on GTAM95, impressed by both the stately giants and the evidence of prolific regeneration, so were keen to return.
The lone tree on Jbel Hayane
Six of us were in a Land Rover, so I suggested trying to backtrack on GTAM95 from Kerrouchen to the north-east to see the best trees we’d noted. Heading east from Khenifra we took the minor road, not the R503, to El Kebab, a lively Monday souk (which has lured us back several times) then, still a goudron, up the Oued Serrou valley to the Kerrouchen turn-off. On subsequent visits (Land Rover or minibus) we’ve continued over the Tizi n’ Rechou to Zeïda – recommended rather than the R503. On this occasion we set off into the forest from Kerrouchen and simply became mislaid in a maze of pistes large and small, several leading to dead ends. We certainly saw cedar trees. Eventually we came out at Itzer, so went over the Col du Zad (N13) to camp by the known Aguelmame (lac) de Sidi Ali. Jbel Hayane was the highest in the area – and near.
Heading for the souk
I had a note of how to find the hill, and we set off north on the N13 for a turn-off after 4km. We found the Bekrite road was our turn-off, a goudron, although we still measured off 8.5km to the corner where we wanted to start walking – but this was hardly needed, as Jbel Hayane was in full view, forested on the left. A piste towards the hill helped, then we headed south to gain the south-east crest. There were still flowers to interest and wheatears heading south. We found lots of agates in the strata and a stone looking like Kendal Mint Cake (the original?). The first bump was skirted on the left, the second on the right, then there was a dip before the final pull to the summit. A stone tower on top was a surprise, but gave a wind break behind which to have a snack before we continued down the long north-east ridge on the other side of the valley. We dropped down into it at a nomad camp and were given tea in a wigwam of wooden boards. There seemed to be sources a-plenty even after the summer heat. Could they over-winter there?
Plains in the spring flush with colour
As it was too early to eat we ran over the Col du Zad to Zeïda, a thriving place of transport cafés, bought hot bread and spicy sardines, apples and pomegranates, which we demolished at Timnay, a camp-site complex we’ve used on many journeys, and at night ran into Midelt to dine at the Fes, enjoying ‘the best ever meal in Morocco’, to quote one old hand. I’ve topped and tailed Hayane really to show the multiplicities of enjoyment that can stitch together any day travelling in Morocco.
CENTRAL HIGH ATLAS
The Cascades d’Ouzzoud
ROUTE FIVE
Jbel Msedrit (Msadrid) 3077m
| Commitment | A straightforward walk (paths help) via the Tizi n’ Taghighacht (2662m) from Isli (lake on N side, 2270m) or longer from the trans-Atlas road on the S. As described, an 11-hour tramp over rough ground, well worth the effort. |
| Maps | 100: Tounfite, Imilchil (essential for our route but not needed if just heading up from the lake in settled weather). |
| Texts | MP2: Isli–Tizi n’ Issural – easting by Fazaz is on Peyron’s main GTAM line, and he describes Fazaz and other fine peaks in the area. |
| Travel to start | Easy piste from Tislit to Isli lakes N of Imilchil. The trans-Atlas route is part goudron, part piste, so 4x4 needed. Isli is an attractive camp spot. |
| Local assistance | Not needed, although our route described is a challenging option. |
Two secretive lakes lie hidden in the heart of the mountains near Imilchil, while above stands a peak with ‘a view of the world’.
On Jbel Msedrit
This very different approach followed on from Hayane (Route 4). From Timnay we drove back to Zeïda, then on by bustling Boumia to dusty Tounfite, which still had the feel of a Wild West town. After rounding Jbel Masker the goudron ran out at Agoudim, and it was piste thereafter (it may well have been upgraded now). A tough section, but with remnant cedars (the climate is too dry and they’re dying out), led to Amemzi. Sloul (2700m) was a battlemented peak off to port and, rounding it, Hayim (2755m) caught the eye. Peyron describes climbing routes on it and on Fazaz, lying across the road from it. We had picnicked earlier among the better cedars, but rounding Fazaz the world was harsh. The village of Tirrhist was surprisingly large though, and when we camped nearby we received lots of curious visitors. The driver produced mint teas for the elderly bearded worthies, one of whom pulled my leg about my beard (small and white). The driver also did a good supper – a thick soup with Zeïda bread, tasty salad, and piles of fresh vegetables with our tins of meat, melon, coffee and biscuits. I do so like roughing it.
Campsite observers
We’d stopped simply because we couldn’t just drive through such an array of peaks. If the area were nearer Marrakech it would be very popular; if I’d seen it years earlier a few more of its hills would be described in this book. However, we did bag Fazaz (3023m) next day. We walked up to the head of our valley, south of the long 8km crest, to the Tizi n’ Enjar, and more or less up from there. Fazaz would become something special later. We had also stopped with another ploy in view – reaching the beautiful lake Isli by going through on foot from the east. Some of us had already camped by its shores, but had driven there – not the same thing. The Land Rover would go round with some of our party by Imilchil and be there for our arrival. Insh’ Allah.
Three of us set off at 06.00 and arrived 11 hours later. Starting at 2174m, a pull led up to the Tizi n’ Isswal (2600m), and we then made up onto a long, long crest that ran along to Msedrit (3077m), the highest point above the lake. Fossils littered the ground. The Assamer n’ Inouzane, as the crest was called, had very little in the way of trods on it (too barren). At one stage a green band