Tour of the Matterhorn. Hilary Sharp

      The rather grand Hotel Schwarzhorn (Stage 2)

      Huts or refuges

      Mountain huts vary greatly in the facilities they offer, from quite luxurious with showers and even rooms to the most basic with just a dormitory and a dining room. There are always toilets, and running cold water is almost guaranteed (although the exceptionally hot summer of 2003 did see a few isolated cases of dried-up water supplies). Huts high in the mountains may not have running water early in the morning when the source could be frozen, so it's wise to fill water bottles the previous evening. Most huts are open from late June to early September, and there will be a guardian in residence, who usually cooks an evening meal and provides breakfast. At a few huts you can take your own food, but you must make sure the guardian is happy with this. Quite frankly it is hardly worth the effort of carrying up food when a very good meal will be on offer for a reasonable price. Drinks – alcoholic and otherwise – are also sold.

      In Italy there are strict laws about public water supplies and in some huts you may be told the tap water is not controlled – this means they cannot guarantee that it is clean.

      Hut etiquette

      We are privileged in the Alps to have a system of huts that enables us to walk just carrying small packs, knowing that at the end of each day we'll have somewhere to sleep and a good hot meal. It's really important that we treat the huts and their guardians with the respect that they deserve. I highly recommend that you book accommodation in advance, even if you just phone the night before; and if you are not going to show up do call to cancel. When you arrive at a hut make yourself known to the guardian and let him show you what to do. Each hut has its own system; some are very relaxed, others less so. The guardian will tell you where to leave your sac: sometimes you can take it to your room, sometimes not. He will ask you to take off your boots and show you where to put them, as well as where to leave crampons and trekking poles. You are expected to vacate your room by a certain time in the morning and to leave it as you found it; this generally means folding up blankets or quilts.

      If you have particular dietary requirements tell the guardian when you arrive so he can prepare a suitable meal. Most huts do not have a huge variety of food available, so unless you really are a vegetarian it's best to eat whatever you are given. Huts do sell drinks, and sometimes you can run up a tab and pay for everything at the end of your stay. Many huts prefer that you settle the bill before going to bed. Remember that credit cards are not usually accepted, so take cash.

      Although sometimes the guardian and friends may party til the small hours it's generally accepted that from 10pm everyone is in bed.

      Most huts do not have road access, so everything has to be transported up by helicopter or on foot. Bear this in mind and take your own rubbish down.

Languages

      The Matterhorn and associated peaks lie on the Swiss–Italian border. Whilst you will find that in the main centres of Breuil-Cervinia – and especially Zermatt – English is widely understood it is nevertheless worth making an effort to speak the local languages. Shopkeepers and hoteliers have realised that it serves them well to speak English, and most do to some extent. Not withstanding this, it is worth making the effort to learn a few basic words; there is