Walking in the Angus Glens. James Carron
could not contrast more. The summit of the former is an unremarkable dome while the latter’s angular backbone rips sharply through the skyline, showering a cascade of rock and scree down either side.
This is a long, demanding walk combining the two Munros with ascents of outlying Monega Hill, at the start of the route, and Monamenach, at the end. The walk initially follows the Monega Path, a right of way and former trade route between the glen and Braemar. A high, exposed and featureless plateau is crossed so accurate route-finding, particularly in poor visibility, is a must. That said, good tracks and paths exist for the majority of the walk and the terrain is generally excellent. Dogs should be kept under close control due to the presence of grazing sheep and ground-nesting birds.
Where the public road through Glen Isla ends at Auchavan (parking area), an estate track continues north to Tulchan Lodge and beyond. This enables swift progress to be made, the route following the River Isla upstream into an increasingly wild and lonely glen.
The walking is easy and at Tulchan Lodge, a remote and very private shooting lodge shrouded in woodland, remain on the track, ignoring a bridge spanning the river. The track continues north, skirting the eastern edge of forestry, to reach a sturdy green metal Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society sign for ‘The Monega Path to Braemar’.
It is tempting to strike out over the hillside from this point, following the line the sign suggests. However, to avoid a lumpy tramp over rough heather and across a stream gully, stay on the track a little longer, crossing the Glas Burn. Once over, bear left on a distinct path and the ascent of Monega Hill begins in earnest.
The climb is initially steep, but the gradient becomes more manageable as the path swings north, passing through a collapsed gate before taking a well-graded line up the long spine. As height is gained, pause occasionally to catch breath and enjoy excellent views south over Glen Isla and east to the mountains above Glen Doll.
Although the right of way bypasses the summit, a well-walked path, dotted with small cairns, leads straight to it. Here the hill ends abruptly, rough slopes plunging steeply into Caenlochan Glen below. Rarely visited, this lost valley of cliffs, crags and glacial moraine is prized for its mountain flora and alpine grasses. On a clear day, the bird’s-eye view over the glen from Monega Hill is breathtaking.
Caenlochan Glen, a remote valley where scarce plants thrive
Rejoin the Monega Path in the shallow col to the west of the summit and the way ambles over Little Glas Maol towards Glas Maol. It is not unusual to spot large herds of red deer roaming across the plateau here. Look out too for mountain hare.
THE MONEGA ROAD
The Monega Road is the highest of the Mounth Roads linking Angus and Aberdeenshire. Unlike many of Scotland’s ancient highways and byways, it crosses a mountain plateau rather than passing through a valley, making it a serious and potentially dangerous proposition for early travellers, particularly during the winter when heavy snow could obliterate the route from the landscape. Historical evidence indicates there was a hospital at the northern end, probably frequently used by casualties of the road.
The Monega was popular with cattle drovers seeking an alternative to the steep Devil’s Elbow that rises between Glen Shee and Braemar, and it also enjoyed royal patronage: in 1861 Queen Victoria crossed on a pony during a stay at Balmoral.
Over time, the Monega fell out of use as the lower-level Tolmounth Road between Clova and Braemar gained favour with drovers and traders. Thereafter, with traffic light, it was used by cattle rustlers and picked up a reputation for smuggling, doubtless witnessing many clandestine movements in its long history.
The old road reaches its summit on the eastern flank of Glas Maol. The walk branches left and heads west over open hillside to the trig point and stone shelter atop the day’s first Munro.
The summit of Glas Maol affords excellent views north to the Cairngorm mountains. Closer to home, near neighbours Cairn of Claise and Carn an Tuirc – both Munros – lie to the east while the day’s next goal, Creag Leacach, awaits to the southwest.
Following the county boundary, marked by an indistinct line of metal fence posts, descend in a southwest direction across open hillside to a prominent cairn at the northern end of a stone wall. This wall, and an accompanying fence, are handy navigational aids as they lead all the way on to the summit of Creag Leacach.
Following the wall, the route descends gently to a col where a tiny stone howff (shelter) lurks amid the rocks, to the left of the wall. Beyond the narrow entrance, the shelter accommodates two and is a useful refuge from the elements, although not suitable for overnight stays.
From the howff, the route rises over the northern flank of Creag Leacach. The ascent is easy at first but soon becomes more arduous, the path weaving a course up through scattered rock and scree to the summit cairn. With slopes falling away steeply on both sides, the summit feels wonderfully exposed.
The rocky spine of Creag Leacach cuts across the skyline
Continue south and then west along the stony ridge, taking care to avoid rusty fence wire that litters the ground, to reach the southwest top and, from here, set a course for Carn Ait, an outlier to the southwest, boasting some impressive cairns.
From Carn Ait descend east on heathery vehicle tracks and then walk southeast over the low mound of Mallrenheskein to Black Hill, negotiating some deep peat hags in the col between the two. From Black Hill descend to Glack of Glengairney and prepare for 200m of fairly remorseless ascent to the summit of Monamenach, a Corbett.
Reward for this end of the day effort is a stunning vista of the route in its entirety. Glas Maol and Creag Leacach appear very different in character and complexity from this elevated angle but are neighbours nonetheless, while Monega Hill to the east seems a long way off now.
A clear path descends the southern flank of Monamenach, joining a good track further down the slope. This descends east to meet the valley track at Auchavan.
Monamenach from Creag Leacach
WALK 2
Badandun Hill
| Start/Finish | Forestry Commission car park at Freuchies, 2km east of Kirkton of Glenisla on minor road signed for Glenmarkie Lodge (NO 224 608) |
| Distance | 22km (13¾ miles) |
| Time | 6hr |
| Height gain | 708m (2325ft) |
| Maps | OS 1:50,000 Landranger 43 and 44; OS 1:25,000 Explorer 381 and 388 |
To truly appreciate the lie of the land in Glen Isla, a hike over Badandun Hill is highly recommended. The summit offers fine vistas across both the fertile lower section of the valley and the wilder upper reaches of the glen, where high peaks cut across the skyline.
Starting from the car park at Freuchies, the route approaches Badandun Hill from the south, crossing green pastures before venturing on to rougher grouse moor. Tracks and paths are generally very good, although accurate navigation is required if visibility is poor on the summit. Underfoot the terrain is good with only occasional boggy patches of ground and some peat hags to negotiate on the summit approach. Dogs should be kept under close control due to the presence of grazing sheep and cattle and ground-nesting birds.
On the north side of the car park, go left and follow a forest road signed for ‘Glen Prosen and Glen Clova by Kilbo Path’. The track rises gently through a plantation of pine and larch trees where, during the summer, flowering broom bushes add a generous