Walking in Menorca. Paddy Dillon

Walking in Menorca - Paddy Dillon


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coast path runs past Cala Fustam and Cala Escorxada (Walk 9)

      Maó and Es Castell

StartPlaça d’Espanya, Maó
FinishPlaça de S’Arraval Vella, Es Castell
Distance8km (5 miles)
Total Ascent/Descent100m (330ft)
Time2hrs 30min
TerrainEasy walking along coastal roads, promenades and narrow cliff paths.
RefreshmentPlenty of choice in Maó, Es Castell and Cales Fonts.
Public transportRegular daily buses link Maó and Es Castell, extending to Sol de l’Est in summer.

      The built-up southern shore of Port de Maó, between the city of Maó and neighbouring Es Castell, is more interesting than maps might suggest. There are fine, short cliff-top paths, lovely little coves and views of Fortalesa de la Mola, the fortified headland guarding the harbour. This coastal walk can be followed instead of the first part of the long-distance GR223, or Camí de Cavalls, which simply follows a main road directly from Maó to Es Castell.

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      Maó’s waterfront reflected in the waters of Cala Figuera

      There are many ways to leave the Plaça d’Espanya in the centre of Maó, and a street map (such as the one at the front of this guide) will be useful. Walk down the bendy road, Costa de ses Voltes, or take a short-cut down broad flights of stone steps. Reach the shore of Port de Maó beside ticket booths for a variety of short cruises. Cruises include the ‘Glass Bottom Boats’, circuits of the harbour and the Fortalesa de la Mola.

      Turn right and follow a generous path between the sea and the coastal road. A multitude of boats are moored alongside, while across the road are plenty of bars and restaurants. Swing right round the Moll de Llevant, pass the Casino Marítim and follow the road round the small inlet of Cala Figuera. The buildings are rather shabby here, and the road ends suddenly at a slipway.

      Just before the slipway, climb steps beside an electricity transformer tower. Turn left and climb more steps past houses. A narrow, well-trodden cliff-top path squeezes between bushes of càrritx and euphorbia, and the surface is often worn to bare limestone. Note the island of Illa del Rei, where the British built a substantial hospital. Houses lie ahead, so join a track to approach them, then continue straight along Carrer Gran into Es Castell.

      Turn left down Carrer Cala Corb to reach the cliff-bound harbour of Cala Corb. Climb steps on the right to reach the cliff-top and continue along a broad, brick-paved path called Miranda de Cala Corb. Turn right along Carrer de Bellavista, losing views of the sea, then turn left down Carrer Sant Ignasi, passing below the Hotel Hamilton. Follow a fine brick-paved promenade, later turning right to reach the inlet of Cales Fonts (bars, restaurants, boats offering harbour tours).

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      A narrow cliff-top path can be followed away from Cales Fonts

      At the head of the inlet, either follow a wooden walkway below a cliff, and later climb steps up the cliff, or head inland, turn sharp left and pick up a cliff-top path that enjoys fine views of the harbour. Either way, continue along the cliff-top path, which is narrow and unfenced. Steps later drop to a rocky shore popular with fishermen, then climb back to the cliff-top. Pass wooden decking and climb a few more steps, following the cliff path to the head of another inlet at Cala Pedrera.

      Climb concrete steps beside the Bar Restaurante Sol Naciente and turn left along a road. Watch for a narrow path on the left, squeezing past broom bushes to continue along the low cliffs at Sol de l’Est. The path passes a housing development and crosses a bouldery wall into fields, but cannot be followed much further. Enjoy the views across to the Fortalesa de la Mola, then retrace your steps until a short concrete track can be followed inland.

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      Barrack-style buildings above Cala Corb in the village of Es Castell.

      Turn left along a road, the Passeig Marítim, which bends right and climbs, becoming the Avinguda del Port. Reach a crossroads where the long distance Camí de Cavalls passes (see GR223 – Stage 1).Turn right to follow a broad pavement beside the road, straight back to Es Castell. Finish at the bus stop on Plaça de S’Arraval Vella. A bus can be caught here back to Maó.

      Cala de Sant Esteve and s’Algar

StartPlaça de S’Arraval Vella, Es Castell
FinishBar Via Maris, Alcalfar
Distance8km (5 miles)
Total Ascent/Descent110m (360ft)
Time4hrs
TerrainEasy at first, mostly along roads, then difficult, rough and rocky afterwards, with a few short, steep and rocky ascents and descents.
RefreshmentBars and restaurants available in Es Castell, s’Algar and Alcalfar.
Public transportRegular daily buses link Maó with Es Castell. Summer buses serve Sol de l’Est, s’Algar and Alcalfar.

      This walk follows roads from Es Castell to Cala de Sant Esteve, in common with the GR223, or Camí de Cavalls. However, when the GR223 moves inland, this walk follows the rugged cliffs onwards as closely as possible. Paths can be vague in places and the ground is often rough and rocky. The rewards for the effort are views of fine cliffs and access to a splendid rocky inlet at Caló de Rafalet. A short walk at the end links s’Algar and Alcalfar.

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      This walk starts at Es Castell (hotels, shops, bar restaurants) or if summer buses are in operation, it is possible to start at nearby Sol de l’Est, but this saves less than 1km (½ mile) of road-walking, so it is neither here nor there. Leave the bus stop at Plaça de S’Arraval Vella and continue along the main road from a roundabout. Although there is a GR223 signpost across the roundabout, there is no pavement on that side.

      The road has a broad pavement alongside and eventually reaches a crossroads. Sol de l’Est lies to the left, but walk straight ahead as signposted for Fort de Marlborough, passing a cemetery. Reach a signposted junction and note Castillo de San Felipe ahead, an occupied 18th-century fort, but turn right instead. Walk along and down the road, passing fields, then fork right down a broad path flanked by bushes. This is bendy and cobbled and avoids using the road to reach the narrow inlet of Cala de Sant Esteve.

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      The attractive bendy and cobbled path down to Cala de Sant Esteve

      Turn right to follow the road round the head of the inlet, passing cave houses and the cave-like entrance to Fort de Marlborough – an early 18th century British redoubt. The GR223, Stage 1, leaves Cala de Sant Esteve by a different route. Continue along the road to the mouth of the inlet, stepping down onto a rocky platform. See where blocks of stone were quarried and cut, leaving level areas and stepped profiles. Pick a way round the cliffs, and climb up rock steps to continue along a trodden path. Later, parts of the cliff are breaking off, so keep clear of the edge.

      Head for a prominent stone tower which can be entered by climbing a set of bent metal steps.

      The view from the Torre d’en Penjat stretches from the mouth of Port de Maó and its many fortifications, inland to Monte Toro, the highest point on Menorca.

      Thick walls flank the tower, so follow one of these directly down towards the sea. Turn right through a gap with steps to continue. There are two sizeable houses above the rocky shore, surrounded by walled fields. A trodden path keeps seaward of these walls, although it isn’t particularly clear where it crosses bare limestone. First, squeeze between a wall and tamarisk bushes, then follow a trodden path, passing a livestock shelter and a ruin.

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