Trekking in the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps. Kev Reynolds
etc – as well as an emergency home contact address and telephone number.
Using this guide
Alpenrose in front of the Kirchlispitzen, as seen from Trek 2, Stage 4
The treks described in this book have all been walked over a number of visits to the region, during which time a few variations to the original routes became necessary when changing conditions made one or two stages unsafe. The ‘unchanging, eternal hills’ belong only to the poet’s imagination. Reality is different – the Alps are in a state of flux. So it’s quite possible that during the lifetime of this edition, more physical changes to the landscape will take place as a result of natural events such as rockfall or shrinking glaciers and snowfields. Should you discover any sections of a route in this guide have altered in any significant way I would welcome a note to that effect, sent to me by email or letter via the Cicerone office in Milnthorpe.
Routes have been described as accurately as possible, but anyone choosing to follow them will also need a map and compass and be prepared to adapt to conditions as found. This guidebook only reflects trail conditions as they existed during my most recent visit in the summer of 2013, and the sketch maps illustrating the route are provided as a planning aid and are not intended as an alternative to the topographical map or maps recommended above.
Route profiles have been devised to give a rough idea of the undulating nature of each route in a simplified form. They do not attempt to give an accurate representation of every up and down experienced along the way.
Each trek is broken into ‘stages’ of unequal length dependant on the existence of accommodation. On the Rätikon Höhenweg some of the huts are spaced little more than a morning’s walk apart, giving an opportunity for the fit trekker with limited time available to complete two stages in a single day. However, the majority of itineraries outlined in this guide remain inflexible and equate to a day’s travel.
At the beginning of each stage description, a summary of the route is given in terms of distance, approximate time needed to reach that day’s destination, height gain and/or loss, and the highest point reached. Heights and distances are given throughout in metres and kilometres, but please note that while heights quoted are usually taken from the recommended map, inconsistencies occur between sheets produced by different cartographers. Of necessity distances have been estimated by measuring the route on a map – by its very nature this will not provide an accurate reading, especially where there are numerous zigzags on the trail, but a rough idea should suffice since most trekkers measure their progress by the amount of time it takes to walk from point A to point B rather than by distance.
It is important to remember that times quoted are approximate only, and make no allowance for rest stops, picnics, or photographic interruptions, for which you should add 25 to 50 per cent to the day’s total.
It is inevitable that times quoted here will be considered fast by some trekkers, slow by others. By comparing your times with those quoted in the text, you should soon discover how much our pace differs and make the necessary adjustments to your day’s schedule. These treks have been devised to gain maximum enjoyment from wandering through a magnificent mountain environment, and the guidebook’s intention is to reflect that aim. To get the most out of the trekking experience don’t be tempted to hurry, unless the weather dictates, and when walking in a group adapt your speed to that of the slowest member.
Features of interest seen along the way are described in more detail in boxes or a sidebar to accompany the text on specific trek stages.
Abbreviations are used sparingly. While most should be easily understood, the following list is given for clarification.
AVAlpenverein (Alpine Club – usually refers to Austrian & German Clubs)
CHFSwiss francs
DAVthe German Alpine Club
EUEuropean Union
F&BFreytag & Berndt (map publishers)
K&FKümmerly + Frey (map publishers)
OeAVAustrian Alpine Club
SACSwiss Alpine Club
INFORMATION AT A GLANCE
Currencies Austria uses the euro (€): 100 cents = €1 while Switzerland and Liechtenstein both use the Swiss franc (CHF): 100 centimes or rappen = CHF1. Euros are usually accepted as payment in Swiss huts and hotels close to a border, but change will be given in Swiss francs. Credit cards are welcome in most hotels and berghausen, but cash is usually required when paying for goods and services in mountain huts.
Emergency number The Europe-wide emergency number is 112.
Formalities Visas are not required by UK passport holders, or other EU nationals.
Health precautions At the time of writing no vaccinations are required of visitors to the region covered by this guide. There are no endemic contagious diseases here, but be aware that tick-borne encephalitis (TBE) is spread by a bite from the Ixodes tick which is prevalent among these mountains. Risk is seasonal, from March to September, and those who take part in outdoor activities are particularly vulnerable. An injection of TBE immunoglobulin gives short-term protection; ask your GP for advice. Any medical treatment received while abroad must be paid for, but the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) which entitles the holder to receive certain medical benefits in an emergency is also valid in Switzerland (a non-EU country). However, it is no substitute for proper health insurance, so make sure you have adequate cover that includes personal accident, sickness and mountain rescue.
International dialling codes When phoning to Austria from the UK use 0043; the code for Switzerland is 0041, for Liechtenstein use 00423. In each case after dialling the country code, ignore the initial 0 of the area code which follows. To call the UK from abroad use 0044.
Language spoken German is spoken throughout the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps, and although some hut wardens and hoteliers understand English, visitors should make an effort to speak some of the host country’s language. A brief German language primer and glossary will be found in Appendix D.
Mobile phones Coverage is reasonable throughout the area, but by the very nature of the terrain ‘black spots’ exist where it’s almost impossible to get a signal.
TREK 1
A TOUR OF THE SILVRETTA ALPS
The lovely Kromertal is crossed on the way to the Hochmaderer Joch (Stage 5)
TREK 1
A Tour of the Silvretta Alps
Start | Berghaus Vereina/Klosters Platz |
Finish | Alp Sardasca/Klosters Platz, or Schlappin/Klosters Dorf |
Distance | c70–80km |
Time | 6–7 days |
Maps | K&F ‘Prättigau-Albula’ and ‘Unterengadin’ 1:60,000 |
Accommodation | Mountain huts and hotels |
From the Vereina Pass the way descends into the head of Val Sagliains (Stage 1)
This week-long anti-clockwise circuit of the Silvretta Alps begins and ends at the Swiss resort of Klosters, and is the toughest of the three treks in this book, with several challenging passes that need to be crossed.
The first night is spent in Berghaus Vereina, reached by minibus taxi from Klosters Platz. The berghaus is a comfortable,