Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price
feasible with a guided group: contact the Catania branch of the CAI (Tel 095-7153515 or www.caicatania.it).
Volcanic bomb
Thanks to the panoramic road SP 92 via Nicolosi, the majority of visitors flock to the most accessible zone of the mountain, Area Etna Sud, 1900m above sea level. Day-in, day-out, coach-loads are disgorged at the sprawl of restaurants and kiosks peddling an unbelievable range of souvenirs and postcards. Its landmark is the Italian Alpine Club’s mythical Rifugio Sapienza, which has miraculously survived countless onslaughts of incandescent lava, and has recently been transformed into a hotel. Close by, a brand new gondola car whisks visitors up to the 2500m mark, where 4WD minibuses continue towards the 3000m threshold. Quite frankly a trek to the volcano’s breathtaking summit craters is an unforgettable experience. For safety reasons, at the present time visitors are only allowed to venture to the highest rims in the company of the qualified alpine guides, who are also experts in vulcanology. Metereological conditions permitting, from May through to October the excursions leave the Area Etna Sud (adjacent Rifugio Sapienza) on a daily basis, and are well-worth considering (Tel 095-7914755 or www.etnaguide.com.) Another agency is www.etnaest.com, tel 327 7972212.
The northeastern realms of Etna are much quieter and accessible thanks to the SP Mareneve and Rifugio Citelli and Rifugio Bruneck at Piano Provenzana – the friendly staff can help with local transport and will pick guests up at bus stops. They also organise local walks with a guide. Unaccompanied walkers can venture on the walk itineraries described in the following pages.
For more detailed and constantly updated information in English, together with links to weather forecasts and stunning images of the upper reaches of Mount Etna where the action is, not to mention a thrilling read, log on to ‘Italy’s Volcanoes: the Cradle of Volcanology’ at www.italysvolcanoes.com, as well as the guides’ site above. The Parco dell’Etna website www.parcoetna.it has all manner of information, including itineraries, while readers of Italian will appreciate highly informative www.cataniaperte.com/etna.
Note Remember that Etna is an active volcano and the situation can change dramatically at a moment’s notice. Intending walkers should check locally for route information to avoid dangerous situations. In any conditions it’s good practice to let someone know which route you intend to follow on a given day to facilitate rescue operations if needs be.
Maps
‘Mt Etna’ 1:25,000 by Selca, Florence, is the most useable map for walkers, and is available at Area Etna Sud and bookshops in large towns.
There is a clear 1:50,000 map ‘Parco dell’Etna’ put out by the TCI (Touring Club Italiano) in conjunction with the Catania Provincial Tourist Board.
The Park Authority itself publishes a simplified diagram-cum-map in leaflet form (in English – ‘Etna Regional Park’) showing the location of highlights around the mountain and providing plenty of background information. However, it is not much help for walking.
WALK 5
The Craters of Monte Silvestri
| Start/Finish | Restaurant, Monte Silvestri |
| Distance | 2.2km/1.4 miles |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Time | 1hr 20min |
| Maps | ‘Mt Etna’ 1:25,000, Selca |
| Access | Area Etna Sud (also referred to as Rifugio Sapienza) is located 21km from Nicolosi. It is served by daily AST runs from Catania via Nicolosi. Drivers will need the parking area near the restaurant shown on the map, a short distance east from the gondola-car lift and Rif. Sapienza, along the road for Zafferana Etnea. On foot, it’s a 5min stroll from the bus stop. |
This route offers two easy but spectacular circuits around a number of colourful craters, long inactive. Ranging between altitudes of 1846–1908m above sea level, a good distance below the smoking summit of Etna, is the cluster of six craters belonging to Monte Silvestri. Strictly speaking they belong to the group of 300 or so adventive (or parasitic) lateral cones that have over time opened up on the flanks of the great giant – in this case along a radial fault during a six-month eruption in 1892. This batch is especially attractive for its rainbow of coloured soils – green, red, white, yellow – in addition to the wide-ranging panorama on offer.
Hotel-style accommodation is available at nearby Rif. Sapienza, as well as Nicolosi, which has a good choice of restaurants.
The Walk
From the restaurant (1880m), where visitors are exhorted ‘Visitate i crateri Silvestri’, take the clear path south flanking the first small exemplar of the Monte Silvestri Inferiore craters with its vivid chromatic tones. The broad rim of the main hole, some 50m in diameter, is circled next on prevalently reddish terrain. From the opposite side take the steep path which drops quickly on loose soil towards a further crater, unmistakable Monte Nero (black mount). Take care following its rim.
Return to the main crater the same way – or via any of the numerous side paths which invite further exploration. The entire area is quite breathtaking. There are vast stark extensions of lava flows, their dark masses interrupted by islands of greenery that escaped the carnage. Further groups of adventive cones punctuate the landscape right down to the broad valleys that circle Etna, preceding the Ionian coast. The circuit is completed left around the main lower crater and back to the roadside restaurant (40min).
Those with energy to spare should cross the road and embark on the steep path for the upper crater. A tiring red-black sand ramp bears north, at first skirting the recent lava flows which appeared to everyone’s surprise on the lower slope of La Montagnola in 2001. Swinging east then south, the path gradually gains the wonderfully scenic rim ofMonte Silvestri Superiore (1998m). The views range over neighbouring Monti Calcarazzi and the elongated Schiena dell’Asino crest, not to mention much further afield. A clear path continues west around the rim, before descending to join the ascent path, whence left back to the restaurant (40min). Accommodation Rif. Sapienza Tel 095-915321 CAI Nicolosi: B&B La Giara Tel 095-7919022
Dwarfed to the size of ants, people explore the lower Silvestri rim
WALK 6
Monte Nero degli Zappini Loop
| Start/Finish | Piano Vetore |
| Distance | 5km/3.1 miles |
| Grade | 1 |
| Time | 1hr 40min |
| Maps | ‘Mt Etna’ 1:25,000, Selca |
| Access |
As per Walk 5, but leave the main road 2.5km west of the Area Etna Sud. There is ample roadside car parking. Those travelling by the daily Catania–Etna bus should ask to be let off at the ‘Sentiero Natura’ turn-off, then it’s a matter of minutes to walk in.
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