Walking on Jersey. Paddy Dillon
government website for further information, www.gov.je, as well as the States Assembly website, www.statesassembly.gov.je, and the Jersey Legal Information Board, www.jerseylaw.je. Legal documents are traditionally prepared in ‘Jersey Legal French’, but since the year 2000 there has been a drive to make these more accessible to the public by presenting them in English.
Wildlife
Plants
The Channel Islands are noted for their flowers, and it is possible to find wild flowers in bloom at any time of the year. The southerly, maritime disposition of the islands and their range of habitats, from fertile soil to barren rocks, ensure that a wide variety of species can thrive. Even attempting to shortlist them is a pointless exercise. The sand dunes of Les Quennevais support around 400 species, and even an old cemetery in the heart of St Helier is graced with 100 species. Bear in mind that the sea is also a bountiful source of marine plants. Add to this the plants that are cultivated in greenhouses and gardens: there are 60 varieties of roses in the Howard Davies Park, and orchids from around the world bloom at the Eric Young Orchid Centre. The study of Jersey’s floral tributes becomes a vast undertaking!
Spring and early summer are the best times to visit Jersey to see wild flowers at their most colourful
Even walkers who have no great interest in flowers cannot fail to be amazed at the sight of narcissi and bluebells growing on the northern cliffs of Jersey. Add abundant swathes of sea campion, red campion, blazes of gorse and broom, nodding ox-eye daisies, and the result is a riot of colour. The sight of fleshy-leaved mesembryanthemum colonising entire cliffs is impressive and unusual. A comprehensive field guide to wild flowers is an essential companion on any walk, but make sure that it encompasses not only a good range of British plants, but also plants from the Mediterranean, which are at their northernmost limits around Jersey. La Société Jersiaise, www.societe-jersiaise.org, gathers plenty of information about Jersey’s botany.
Animals
Mammoth, woolly rhinoceros and deer are known to have flourished in the past on the Channel Islands, but today Jersey is devoid of large wild mammals. Rabbits do well almost everywhere, but little else is likely to be seen except for evidence of moles and small rodents. Red squirrels were introduced to Jersey by local naturalists in 1885. The Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust features a splendid range of exotic species, but look to the sea for other species, such as dolphins. Local differences occur between the islands, such as the fact that toads are found on Jersey, but not Guernsey, though green lizards live on both islands. Insect life is abundant and varied, with a range of colourful butterflies.
The birdlife is amazingly rich, with a range of residents and a host of migratory species. While the landmass is rather small to support many raptors, there are owls, kestrels and sparrowhawks. The coastal margins abound in interest, attracting a range of waders which probe the beaches and rock pools for food. The cliffs and pebbly beaches provide safe nesting places for a variety of gulls and terns, and puffins can be seen on some of the smaller islands and stacks. There are areas of heathland where the rare Dartford warbler might be seen or heard, and there are a few areas of dense woodland, marsh and grassland sites which attract particular species. The range of bird habitats is under pressure from human development and recreation on such tiny islands but, even so, there is plenty to see.
A gull perches nonchalantly on a German gun at the Batterie Möltke at Les Landes
Listing a couple of hundred species of birds is a pointless exercise, and so much depends on the time of year and prevailing conditions. A good field guide to birds is useful, and there are titles specific to the Channel Islands. The Jersey Museum has exhibits relating to natural history, and visitor centres such as the Kempt Tower offer specific information about the plants and animals. La Société Jersiaise, www.societe-jersiaise.org, produces the annual Jersey Bird Report, or see www.jerseybirds.co.uk for information.
Protected areas
There is no national park on Jersey, though for many years the species-rich sand dunes of Les Blanches Banques near Les Quennevais have been regarded as a ‘special’ area, even referred to as a ‘trainee national park’. There are several small nature reserves on Jersey, from marshland to woodland. The National Trust for Jersey has already been mentioned, owning 1.6% of the land area of Jersey, which they are dedicated to preserving. There are also large and very important marine reserves, some of which are particularly difficult to access. They include the south-east coast and the rocky reefs of Les Ecrehous, Les Minquiers, Les Pierres de Lecq and Les Dirouilles.
Getting to Jersey
A map of transport routes makes Jersey look like the centre of the universe, with ferries and flights converging on the island from all points of the compass. Bear in mind that there are seasonal variations, with more services available in the summer months than in the winter.
Who can go?
People who hold British or European Union passports or identity cards do not need visas to visit Jersey. All air travellers must produce some form of photo-ID or they may be denied boarding. People who have obtained a visa to visit Britain can also visit Jersey during the period for which their visa is valid. Dogs and other pets can be brought from Britain to Jersey, subject to any conditions that might be imposed by ferry or flight operators. Usual practice applies to walking dogs in the countryside; keep them under control, especially near livestock. Dogs may be barred from beaches during the summer months and anti-fouling laws are in place everywhere.
Flights
Flights to Jersey operate from about two dozen British airports, and from a handful of European countries, such as Ireland, France, Germany, Netherlands and Switzerland. Scehduled and charter flights are available. Scheduled flights are mostly operated by Flybe, ww.flybe.com, and Blue Islands, www.blueislands.com, while Blue Islands and Aurigny, www.aurigny.com, operate most inter-island flights. Summer charter flights are offered by Jersey Travel, www.jerseytravel.com, and other companies. This is not an exhaustive list and choices are quite bewildering, so it takes time to sift and sort between various operators, schedules and prices, but with patience some extraordinarily good deals can be sourced.
The National Trust for Jersey is a major landowner, maintaining some interesting short walks
Ferries
Ferries serve Jersey from Britain and France. Ferries from Britain are operated by Condor, www.condorferries.co.uk, sailing from Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth. Passengers can choose between fast and slow ships, either travelling directly to Jersey or via a short break at Guernsey. Condor also serves Jersey from St Malo in France. Other ferry services from France are operated by Manche Îles Express, www.manche-iles-express.com, sailing from Granville and Barnville-Carteret to Jersey, also offering links with Guernsey, Alderney and Sark.
Tour operators
Package holidays to the Channel Islands can be arranged for any period from a weekend upwards, freeing you from the hassle of trying to co-ordinate ferries, flights, accommodation and meals. Prices are quite competitive and there are seasonal variations, so it