The Cape Wrath Trail. Iain Harper

      Iain Harper lives and works in the Cotswolds, but has been walking in the Scottish Highlands for 20 years. He first discovered the Cape Wrath Trail in 2007 and since then has walked it many times researching this book.

      © Iain Harper 2015

      Second edition 2015

      ISBN: 978 1 85284 817 0

      Reprinted 2017 (with updates)

      First edition 2013

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press

      All photographs and illustrations are by the author unless otherwise stated.

       © Crown copyright 2017. OS PU100012932

      For Angela, Tony and Kay

      Updates to this Guide

      While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/817/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal LA9 7RL, United Kingdom.

      Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.

      Additionally this guide works in tandem with a new website, www.capewrathtrailguide.org, where regular route news and updates will be posted. The site also allows you to share your own expedition reports, photos and videos for others to read as well as a comprehensive directory of accommodation and useful links.

      Introduction to the Second Edition

      Since this guide was first published two years ago, the Cape Wrath Trail has continued its seemingly inexorable rise in stature. Two new maps from Harvey make the job of navigation much easier, but the choice and variety of routes and the lack of waymarking make an expedition as tough a proposition as ever. As if the challenge of walking it was insufficient, an ultra marathon is also to be held along the route. The Scottish National Trail follows much of the same route from Fort William northwards and is now becoming well established. At the same time there have been moments of sadness. The owner of Gerry’s hostel at Craig recently died, and will be sorely missed by the many that relied on his hospitality over the years. Any book that follows a route primarily suggested by others inevitably owes a large debt of gratitude to those that blazed the trail. In particular David Paterson, Cameron McNeish, Denis Brook and Phil Hinchcliffe: without their pioneering and inspirational work, this route wouldn’t be as popular as it is today. I’m very grateful to my beautiful and long-suffering wife, who put up with me being far away from home over two consecutive Christmases and many other trips to research this book. I’d also like to thank Bob Smith for his companionship during the second winter expedition where we endured some of the coldest conditions in twenty years. Tom Forrest has probably done more than any single individual to promote the Cape Wrath Trail and has been hugely generous with advice and support during the writing of this book. Thanks also to the many people who got in touch from all over the world with information fresh from their own journeys along the trail, in particular Dean Crosby and David Hird.

      Warning

      Mountain walking can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain walk. Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accept liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book.

      To call out the Mountain Rescue, ring 999 or the international emergency number 112: this will connect you via any available network. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the police.

      Front cover: Rough bounds of Knoydart

      CONTENTS

       Overview map

       Map key

       Preface

       INTRODUCTION

       Geology and wildlife

       Getting there

       Getting around

       When to go

       Accommodation

       Safety

       Emergencies

       Money and communications

       Preparation and planning

       What to take

       Waywarking and access

       Maps and navigation

       Using this guide

       1 FORT WILLIAM TO STRATHCARRON

       Stage 1 Fort William to Glenfinnan

       Stage 2 Glenfinnan to Glen Dessarry

       Stage 3 Glen Dessarry to Barisdale

       Stage 4 Barisdale to Morvich (near Shiel Bridge)

       Alternative Stage 1 Fort William to Laggan

       Alternative