The Cape Wrath Trail. Iain Harper

      Benmore Lodge (Stage 10)

      There is generally not a great deal of choice in this part of the world and availability is very much dependent on the time of year. While it’s technically possible to walk the route without carrying a tent, using a combination of bothies and other accommodation, it’s not prudent to do so. Bothies can occasionally be full to bursting, and you’ll lack the flexibility to vary your days if you’re feeling tired. Given that some stages are pretty remote, a tent is also an important part of mountain safety should one of your party get injured.

      Accommodation listings are usually the first thing to go out of date in any printed guidebook. A current list is offered here as Appendix B, but you should also consult the constantly updated accommodation listings maintained at www.capewrathtrailguide.org/accommodation. In many places along the route accommodation options are very limited, if they exist at all, so it’s a good idea to book in advance, especially in summer months. Many of the more remote establishments close during the off season (typically October to March). Accommodation lists can also be obtained from VisitScotland (0845 2255121, www.visitscotland.com). Good, inexpensive accommodation is also available from the Scottish Youth Hostel Association (www.syha.org.uk) or the many independent hostels and bunkhouses (www.hostel-scotland.co.uk).

      Bothies and the Mountain Bothy Association

      The mission of the Mountain Bothy Association is ‘to maintain simple shelters in remote country for the benefit of all who love wild and lonely places.’ Even if you are planning to camp or use hotel/hostel accommodation along the trail, it’s a good idea to have an awareness of bothy locations in case of emergencies or foul weather. In times gone by, bothy locations were not shared widely and only available with MBA membership. These days the MBA displays bothy locations on its website, however all the charity’s maintenance work is carried out by volunteers and it relies on membership to continue its work. A full membership subscription costs around £20 per year, available at www.mountainbothies.org.uk.

      Bothies work on a system of trust and respect which breaks down when people don’t abide by a few simple rules:

      Not all bothies are operated by the MBA, although their bothies tend to be the best cared for. Some estates also have bothies (for example Glenfinnan), offering varying levels of comfort. Some even have flushing toilets, although this is a rare luxury. Bothies are a unique part of walking in the Scottish Highlands and a rite of passage well worth experiencing. There are few better things than arriving at a remote bothy dripping wet from a howling storm to find a glowing fire ablaze in the hearth and a few fellow mountain lovers with whom to swap far-fetched mountain escapades. That said, bothies can sometimes be cold, rather spooky places if you’re on your own or don’t have fuel for a fire (most areas around bothies are stripped bare of usable wood) so you may prefer the warm solitude of your tent. Bothies that are on or close to the route or route variants are listed in the relevant route sections, and in Appendix B, with their grid refs.

Safety

      Finiskaig River (Stage 3)

      The Cape Wrath Trail crosses some of the remotest country in Britain, so you must be largely self-sufficient. At times you may be a day or more away from the nearest road, let alone help. For each day plan an escape route in case something goes wrong, or you cannot continue as planned (for example an uncrossable river).

      Dangers you may encounter include:

       Sudden weather changes – mists, gales, rain and snow may move in more quickly or be more severe than forecast (always have a refuge and escape route planned)

       Impassable rivers due to heavy rain (have an escape route or the ability to camp and wait for the water levels to subside)

       Ice on the path – a distinct possibility early or late in the year (carry and know how to use an ice-axe and lightweight walking crampons if these conditions are likely)

       Excessive cold or heat (have the clothing and equipment to cope)

       Exhaustion (recognise the signs, rest and keep warm)

       Passage of time (allow plenty of extra time in winter, in poor weather and over rough terrain).

      River crossings

      River Oykel, near its source (Stage 10)

      River crossings are one of the greatest hazards on this route. In normal conditions, most mountain streams and rivers in Scotland are wide and shallow, with pebbly bottoms, making them relatively safe and easy to wade across where there are no bridges (a common occurrence given the remoteness of much of the trail). But a small burn that can be easily crossed in dry weather can quickly turn into a dangerous torrent after sustained rain. Crossing rivers and streams at the wrong time, in the wrong place can and does kill people and this unpredictability makes it impossible to provide warnings for all crossings. The route has been designed to avoid crossings that are known to be dangerous in very wet conditions. Potentially tricky crossings are noted but you should assume that all river crossings in wet weather will be more difficult and factor this into your timing and route planning.

      After a long day in rough country, particularly if you’re behind schedule, the temptation can be to ‘plough through’ a river. But if you’re unsure about the safety of any crossing, a detour upstream will generally turn up either a safer crossing point or a bridge that isn’t marked on the map. If in doubt, find somewhere else to cross or do not cross at all, as rivers subside quickly when the rain stops. With common sense and by familiarising yourself with some basic river crossing techniques, you should be able to deal with anything you encounter on this trail. Consider using walking pole(s) to provide additional stability when crossing. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides an excellent guide to river crossings as part of their Hill Skills series: www.thebmc.co.uk.

      Given the number of river crossings, it’s also worth giving some prior thought to how you’ll deal with wet feet. This can be a real problem, with blistering from damp footwear being one of the main reasons people have to abandon the trail. Some choose to strip off their socks and cross in boots alone. This approach seems to hold limited advantage as sodden boots soon lead to sodden socks. Others carry a lightweight pair of plastic sandals that

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