Spain's Sendero Historico: The GR1. John Hayes

      Looking north to Curavacas

      Turn right off the road 300 metres after San Martín de los Herreros, cross an old bridge and follow the edge of a water meadow along what must have been the old road to Ventanilla. On the north side of Ventanilla is a bar but if you can wait an hour the options are much better at the next village, Ruesga.

      Instead of crossing the main bridge, head through a farmyard immediately to the south of the road and climb up onto the path just next to one of the farm buildings. Follow the path alongside the Embalse de Ruesga (where, if it’s hot and the weekend, the locals will be having a swim) all the way to Ruesga.

      Ruesga is a pretty village sitting underneath a dam and has a bar and two restaurants. The Hotel Rural Casa María (979 870741) is a particularly good place to eat, serves local specialties and has rooms. One of Spain’s famous parador hotels, the Cervera de Pisuerga, sits high above the village with famously great views.

      Cervera de Pisuerga is only 2km further on, has lots of accommodation and, because of the distance to Brañosera (the next stopover), is perhaps the better place to aim for. To get there head east for 300 metres along the road, turn left onto a dirt track and follow it to the town.

      CERVERA DE PISUERGA POPULATION 2461

      Cervera de Pisuerga is a scruffy town but if you’re travelling west to east is the place to find the first of the GR1’s historical gems. The most important one is the church of Santa María del Castillo passed on the way into the town. The building as a whole is late Gothic (16th century) and at one time served as a medieval fortress. It’s impressive from the outside but the real gems are inside and include an altarpiece from the Spanish-Flemish School by Felipe de Bigarmy (part of the funeral chapel of Santa Ana) and the main altarpiece constructed in a Renaissance style. You need to book in advance to visit (606 145 0045). To the south of the town, just before the village of Vado, are the remains of the San Vicente Hermitage, an 8th-century ‘building’ carved out of a rock and surrounded by graves (happily empty), also carved out of rock.

      The town has the full range of services with several small hotels the best of which is probably the Hostal Peñalabra (979 970 037; www.hostalpenalabra.com) – very traditional, comfortable and with excellent food. The Hotel Roble (979 874 429; www.hotelelroble.com) – a modern hotel – serves early breakfast which is helpful if you want a fast getaway in the morning. Both hotels can be booked at www.booking.com.

STAGE 5

      Cervera de Pisuerga to Brañosera

      Another great walk with wonderful views, particularly towards the end. The shortcut is recommended but if the route is still too long then stay at Estalaya. If you’re going the whole way organise a sandwich for lunch.

      Head north through the town along the main street (Calle San Roque). Continue north as the main road swings east, stay on left-hand side of the Río Pisuerga, passing through a new municipal park, along a path between playing fields and the river, past an old water mill and into open countryside. Stay on the left-hand side of the river until it crosses an old bridge into the village of Arbejal.

      Arbejal is a small pretty stone village with a youth hostel (979 87 01 74).