Walking and Trekking on Corfu. Gillian Price
cottonweed (Otanthus maritimus) grow on the seaward side of low sand dunes, their thick stems lined with masses of lightly serrated leaves and topped with tiny tufted yellow blooms. The bushy everlasting or curry plant (Helichrysum) has unassuming woolly flowers of a golden hue at the tip of slender stems punctuated with silvery needle-like leaves: these release a curry-like aroma when rubbed.
Clockwise from left: sea daffodil; brilliant poppies; fragile rockrose
Dry terrain near the seashore is the perfect habitat of the monstrous giant agave, or century plant (Agave americana), which can grow as tall as seven metres. Originally from Mexico, its spiky blue-grey leaves are clustered in a rosette at the plant’s base. Its impressive trademark candelabra-like flowers, which appear at the end of the agave’s life, grow on stems reminiscent of gigantic asparagus, and appearing to have come straight out of a science fiction film.
That same terrain is shared with the prolific – and considerably shorter – sea squill (Urginea marittima). This has slender rod stems, the top parts of which are lined with white blooms. The leaves dry up around the base of the plant but its most characteristic feature is its huge onion-like bulbs, which can weigh up to 2kg, and more often than not protrude above the ground. Because the bulb continues growing even after it has been uprooted, in olden times the plant was attributed with magical powers of regeneration. Still today people hang it in their houses at New Year to guarantee good health and luck for the inhabitants.
More like a lily, and sometimes confused with sea squill, is the beautiful showy sea daffodil (or sea lily) that grows in clumps. Its bulb is not usually visible and its large trumpet-shaped flowers appear a couple to each stem. The Latin name Pancratium maritimum derives from ‘all powerful’, probably in view of the plants’ capacity to survive in extreme conditions such as dry salty sand, although it may also refer to the plant’s medicinal properties.
A little further inland flourishing bushes of rockrose (Cistus) with pale pastel paper-fragile flowers enliven the maquis scrub. This habitat is shared with thick masses of headily perfumed broom that colour hillsides and send bees into a frenzy. Walkers with keen eyes will find clearings in light woodland to be the perfect breeding ground for tiny exquisite orchids: an estimated 36 types have been reported on Corfu. Outstanding examples are the early spider orchid (Ophrys sphegodes), the woodcock orchid (Ophrys scolopa) and unusual autumn-flowering lady’s tresses (Spiranthes spirales), with tiny white star blooms on a plaited stem.
The giant agave is never far from the seafront
Poppies are many and memorable: eye-catching yellow horned-poppies (Glaucium flavum) sprawl on beaches, and are easily recognisable for their long pointed seed pods. Brilliant crimson specimens of the common poppy (Papaver rhoeas), on the other hand, are found along streams, forming vivid carpets in olive groves. Inland rural settings are also the habitat for colourful lupins (Lupinus) that mostly come in blue.
A surprising number of flowers bloom as late as September: meadow saffron, cyclamens and the white blossom of the common myrtle (Myrtus), a typical Mediterranean shrub whose evergreen leaves contain an essential oil. It was named after a legendary maiden from ancient Greece, who was slain by a rival (male) gymnast and turned into this lovely bush. The curious strawberry tree is another late noteworthy: it bears its white bell flowers and fruit at varying stages of maturity at the same time. When ripe, the rough red balls taste like strawberries – if you ignore the lumpy bits. The second part of the Latin name Arbutus unedo means ‘eat one’, implying that one is sufficient!
Extensive oak forests once cloaked the hilly island, and were widely exploited by the Venetians who used the wood for shipbuilding. They were partially replaced by extensive and profitable olive groves: the Venetians paid the farmers to plant them, and accepted taxes paid in oil. An estimated three million graceful olive trees now thrive on Corfu. In early spring tiny sprigs of round, creamy blooms appear between the tiny blue-green leaves. A story narrates that the island’s patron saint, Spiridion, appeared in a vision forbidding people either to prune the trees or pick the fruit; this may explain the abandoned look of the majority of the groves (cutting down trees is still prohibited by law), but not the fact that each winter families painstakingly collect the tiny black olives and press them to make fragrant oil.
Wildlife
The island is not heaving with wildlife, but a number of delightful sightings are on the cards. The magic flickering of fireflies is hard to beat of a summer evening. Another treat are the 83 species of butterflies. Freshwater terrapins are not uncommon inland, in or near streams, while yellow-and-black tortoises may be heard moving around in the undergrowth. Exported as pets in the 1960s, nowadays they are thankfully protected.
A timid tortoise on the sand dunes
Birds of prey, including the buzzard and kite, are at home on open mountain terrain, such as the Pandokratoras. In a more urbanised setting, astonishing numbers of swifts, swallows and house martins swarm over Corfu Town in shrieking black clouds during from the month of March all the way through to mid-October, before they head for warmer climes.
The hoopoe is unforgettable and eye-catching, as it runs and bobs its way along the ground. Vaguely like a woodpecker, it has a showy crest of black-tipped, chestnut brown feathers and black-and-white striped wings.
Water birds include the occasional flock of flamingos, along with waders such as seagulls, herons, spoonbills, egrets and oystercatchers that can be spotted at the important wetland sites of Lake Andiniotissa, Lake Korission and the old salt pans at Lefkimmi.
The vast wetlands at Lefkimmi are home to many birds (Walk 20)
Potential danger may come in the shape of the island’s small venomous snakes, but sightings are rare. The asp viper (Vipera aspis) is a smallish cream–hazel-coloured snake with a broad triangular head, whereas the horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), as its name suggests, has a horn on its snout and is a lighter grey–brown, with wavy markings. These snakes only attack when threatened or surprised – they may be drowsy when soaking up the sun on a path, so give them time to slither away. Their poison acts slowly and very rarely is the bite fatal. In the unlikely event that you are bitten, contact emergency services immediately. The number of these snakes has diminished drastically over recent years due to the widespread use of pesticides and weed killers.
Harmless snakes include the grass snake and the slow worm, the latter related to lizards. These come in many shapes and colours: the best loved is the ingenious gecko, which hangs onto walls and ceiling with its marvellous sucker feet as it hunts for insects attracted to light sources.
Getting there
The easiest and cheapest way to reach Corfu is by plane. There is a huge choice of flights from the UK and many European cities, including northern Europe and Scandinavia. Companies that serve the island include British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair, Thomas Cook Airlines and Thomson Airways. The airport (www.corfu-airport.com) is only 3km from Corfu Town, and handy airport minibus transfers can be arranged through www.hoppa.com/en/hoppago and www.holidaytaxis.com. Should you need it, a city bus (frequent service) stops a 15min walk away out on the main road.
It is unquestionably more romantic, if more long-winded, either to drive or to take a train to Italy’s Adriatic coast, then catch a car ferry from either Ancona, Bari or Brindisi. These leisurely overnight voyages conclude at the Greek mainland port of Igoumenitsa, from where there are plenty of connecting ferries across the straits to Corfu Town or Lefkimmi. Direct ferries to Corfu have unfortunately been shouldered out by the more lucrative cruise ships.