The Cotswold Way. Kev Reynolds
Bus routes into and along the Cotswolds are operated by several companies, but since operators are free to change or cancel services provided they give six weeks’ notice to the county councils, it is not possible to give any reliable detailed indication of service provision here. For national bus timetable information call 0871 200 2233 or visit www.traveline.org.uk.
First nights and last nights
Chipping Camden
Chipping Campden is the loveliest of all the Cotswold market towns that owe their elegance to the wool trade. Take a leisurely stroll along the High Street where the walk officially begins. It is lined with historic buildings whose honey-coloured stone is typical of the district. Among the most eye-catching, the 17th-century Market Hall is a prominent feature with its graceful arches; the nearby Woolstaplers’ Hall and Almshouses are both monuments to the silk merchant Sir Baptist Hicks who built Campden House in 1615 (burned down 30 years later in the Civil War) close to the beautiful perpendicular wool church of St James. Today only two gatehouses and two restored Jacobean banqueting houses are all that remain of the Hicks estate. Meanwhile the town has a number of fine old inns, hotels and restaurants.
But if you arrive early enough, and have transport available, you might be interested in visiting the National Trust-owned Hidcote Manor Gardens, or the privately-owned (but open to the public) Kiftsgate Court Gardens in the village of Mickleton a short distance to the north of town. It’s also worth noting that in May each year Chipping Campden holds what has become one of the UK’s leading music festivals. For local up-to-date information, call in at the tourist office located in The Old Police Station in the High Street (01386 841206). Otherwise visit www.chippingcampdenonline.org, www.chippingcampden.co.uk or www.cotswolds.info/places/chipping-campden.
Bath
The Royal Crescent, Bath
Bath predates the Romans, but it is the rich combination of Roman Baths, Abbey and the Georgian splendour of its buildings, that makes it such a compelling place to visit today. With the River Avon flowing below, the Roman Baths and magnificent Abbey form an unforgettable centre-piece, while just a street or two away, the symmetry of the Royal Crescent is an elegant backdrop to the Royal Victoria Park. Before putting on boots and rucksack (or after you’ve taken them off), spare a day at least to explore this most interesting of cities. Even if you fail to take afternoon tea at the Pump Room, steam up your glasses at the 1900 year-old Roman Baths, bathe in the waters of the new Thermae Spa, or be inspired by the architectural majesty of the Abbey, there are museums and art galleries, a choice of theatres, and the river itself to enjoy, with boat trips available.
Accommodation? There are something like 250 options, and enough eating places to suit every taste and every pocket. The modern tourist information centre at Abbey Chambers has countless leaflets, maps and guidebooks available, but for a preview of what’s on and where in Bath, go to www.visitbath.co.uk or www.cotswolds.info/places/bath.
Accommodation
Although the Cotswold Way can be walked in day sections with the aid of private (and, in some cases, public) transport, this guide has been written with the long-distance walker in mind. Overnight accommodation along the way is therefore a prime concern, and I have indicated where such accommodation was available during research (with full contact details given in Appendix B). For current details you are advised to go to the national trail website www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold-way which includes a useful link.
Cicerone will also be regularly updating an online version of Appendix B which will be available to anyone who has bought this guide. Go to www.cicerone.co.uk/member.
Walkers are advised to book their accommodation in advance, and note that beds are at a premium during the race week of the Cheltenham Festival (in March) and when the Badminton Horse Trials take place (late April/May).
There are very few facilities for campers along the Cotswold Way, although a few bed-and-breakfast establishments do allow camping in their grounds. Consult the national trail website mentioned above for details.
Facilities en route
Chipping Campden High Street
Each of the towns along the way, and most of the villages en route, have places where it’s possible to buy food or meals. Check the Trek Planner at the front of this guidebook before you finalise your itinerary and decide whether or not to pack supplies for a day’s walking.
There are banks where you can top up your cash on the route at Chipping Campden, Broadway, Winchcombe, Dursley, Wotton-under-Edge and Bath.
Baggage transfer service
If the prospect of carrying a heavy rucksack the full length of the Cotswold Way is rather forbidding, there are a few companies who will transfer your baggage for you from one overnight accommodation stop to the next. See Appendix A for a selection of companies currently providing this service.
What to take
The top of the cheese-rolling slope on Cooper’s Hill is a splendid viewpoint
Take clothing and equipment appropriate for the season. Waterproofs should be carried at all times of the year. Choose comfortable, well-fitting boots. A first-aid kit to deal with minor injuries and blisters is recommended. Carry map, compass and guidebook.
The Cotswold Way Hall of Fame
Walkers who complete the Cotswold Way, whether in one unbroken journey or in stages, can now enter an online Hall of Fame on the Cotswold Way website.
To be included, obtain a card via the website and have it stamped at the start and finish of the trail, as well as at a number of locations in between. When the card has been completed and submitted, walkers will receive either a brass pin badge or an embroidered patch to mark the achievement, and have their names entered in the Hall of Fame. For full details go to www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold-way/hall-of-fame.
PLANNING DAY BY DAY
Using this guide
Drystone walls like this one at the end of the Mile Drive (Stage 1 Southbound, Stage 13 Northbound) are a feature of the Cotswolds
At the beginning of the description of each stage of the route, you will find the distance quoted in miles and kilometres (metric equivalents are rounded to the nearest half). Details are given of specific map sheets available, and a note of where accommodation and refreshments may be found. Throughout the route text you will find features that appear on the overview maps highlighted in bold, to help you plot your way across the maps, and lots of information on points of historical, geological or general interest passed along the way.
The stage-by-stage route description in this guide is accompanied by overview maps at a scale of 1:100K (1 cm to 1 mile). A more detailed map of the Way is supplied in booklet form, at a scale of 1:25K, at the back of the book. For the majority of the route, waymarking and signposts should be sufficient to make detailed guidebook descriptions superfluous but should you