Walking in the North Pennines. Paddy Dillon
time wandering around Brampton, taking in St Martin’s Church, Prince Charlie’s House, the old stocks, the site of an old bullring, and plenty of fine buildings. Facilities include banks with ATMs, post office, accommodation, plenty of shops, pubs and restaurants. The tourist information centre is in the Moot Hall, tel 01697 73433, open Easter to October, except Sundays.
Follow Front Street away from the centre of Brampton, past St Martin’s Church, to continue along Carlisle Road. Turn left as signposted for Carlisle along a road called Elmfield. At the top of the road, turn left again through a gate to follow a field path, enjoying views of the northern Lake District and southern Scotland. Cross a road and turn right to follow Capon Tree Road. Big beeches grow beside a couple of houses, then a stone memorial marks the spot where the Capon Tree once grew.
Following the retreat of Bonnie Prince Charlie, his local supporters were hung from the branches of the Capon Tree. The tree no longer exists, but is marked by a stone monument planted in 1904. Its name is derived from the capons eaten in its shade by assize judges travelling to Carlisle. They were in the habit of breaking their journey at the tree in order to accept bribes from litigants in advance of court proceedings!
Keep straight ahead to cross the busy A69 with great care. Pick up the continuation of the Capon Tree Road, following Bonnie Prince Charlie’s route towards Carlisle, at least as far as Low Geltbridge. Don’t cross the bridge, but peer over its parapet to see the River Gelt cutting through a dark, red sandstone gorge.
The River Gelt’s name is derived from the Norse ‘geilt’, meaning ‘mad’, and is locally known as the ‘Mad River’, flowing fast, furious and frenzied at times. The red sandstone in this area was quarried by the Romans for use at Hadrian’s Wall. With expert guidance you could locate the ‘Written Rock of Gelt’, where Roman quarrymen carved their names. The varied woodlands support birds such as wood warblers, tree-creepers, pied flycatchers, woodpeckers, song thrushes and blackcaps. Roe deer and red squirrels can be spotted with patience. Mosses, liverworts, fungi and ferns thrive in damp and shaded locations.
A path has been built in the ‘mad’ River Gelt, leading walkers upstream through the woods
Turn left through a car park to follow a well-wooded path upstream beside the River Gelt. Keep right at a path junction to remain close to the river and study its narrow rocky channel. Part of the path has been built in the river, then there are steps leading uphill.
Pass old quarry faces, where the path climbs above the river then descends to cross a bridge over Hell Beck. The little stream of Hell Beck is reputed to have flowed red with blood for three days after a battle in 1570. Climb from the river again, then head downhill and pass some small waterfalls. The path suddenly emerges from the woods to join a road, which is followed straight ahead beneath the towering arches of a railway viaduct.
Middle Gate Viaduct was one of the earliest skew-arched viaducts in the country, completed in 1853. The masonry is reputed to have been modelled with carved chunks of turnip, so that the stonemasons and engineers could understand how the odd-shaped blocks would support the arch.
Follow the road up through a crossroads and continue to the little village of Talkin. The Blacksmiths Arms offers food, drink and accommodation. Turn left in the village to follow another road to the former Tarn End Hotel, now apartments. Turn right along a short path leading to the shore of Talkin Tarn, then consider two options.
Legend tells how a village once occupied the site of Talking Tarn. An angel of God visited, but was ill-treated by all the inhabitants, except for one old widow. In retribution, the village was drowned in the tarn, except for the old widow. Some say that the tarn is bottomless, while others say that on stormy nights the church bells of the drowned village can be heard tolling beneath the water.
Popular Talkin Tarn Country Park is home to the Talkin Tarn Amateur Rowing Club, which was founded in 1859, making it one of the oldest clubs in the country. Regattas have been held here for even longer, since 1849. Facilities for visitors include a ranger service, education cabin, bird observatory, tea room, toilets, campsite, and a path running all the way round the shore.
To continue, either turn left along the shoreline path, passing the boating club, then turn left again as signposted for Brampton Junction, or turn right to walk round the quieter side of the tarn before turning right for Brampton Junction. The latter choice adds very little distance to the day’s walk. Leaving Talkin Tarn, woods give way to a field path, which in turn leads to the Brampton Fell Road. Turn right and follow the road to Brampton Station.
Cross the footbridge over the railway, go through a gate and turn left to follow a track parallel to the railway. The track gradually veers right, away from the railway, and was formerly a railway line itself. The Dandy Line, as it was known, was a horse-drawn line leading to Brampton. It passes woods and runs beneath the busy A69, then heads through fields until a missing bridge requires walkers to drop down steps to the right. Turn left along a road and generally keep left to follow roads back into the centre of Brampton.
WALK 2
Hallbankgate and Cold Fell
| Start/Finish | Hallbankgate (NY 580 596) |
| Distance | 14.5km (9 miles) |
| Terrain | Tracks and paths on lower ground, but rugged, boggy moorland on higher ground. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 86. Explorer OL43 |
| Refreshments | Pub in Hallbankgate. |
| Transport | Occasional buses serve Hallbankgate from Carlisle, Brampton and Alston. |
Cold Fell is the last big, broad, boggy moorland hump at the northern end of the North Pennines. Cold by name and cold by nature, it can feature snowy slopes long after the nearby plains have thawed. The easiest access is from the village of Hallbankgate, if arriving by bus, while motorists can use an RSPB car park on the road to Howgill.
There is a pleasant grassy path at first, but rugged boggy slopes later. In case of mist, handy post-and-wire fences can be followed across the broad and open higher slopes.
Start at Hallbankgate, where facilities are limited to the food, drink and accommodation offered by the Belted Will pub, and the Co-op store. Buses are infrequent, so if relying on them, be sure to check the rather limited timetable. There is an even less frequent bus that runs a little further to a turning space on the road signposted for the RSPB Geltsdale reserve. Continue along this road and pass Clesketts to reach the RSPB Geltsdale car park. Motorists parking here can save almost 3km (2 miles) of road-walking from the day’s total.
The information office for the RSPB Geltsdale reserve is off-route beside Tindale Tarn, but the RSPB has an interest in Cold Fell and much of the surrounding land. Pick up a leaflet from the dispenser at the car park, or if information is required in advance of a visit, tel 016977 46717 or see www.rspb.org.uk. The reserve is centred on Tindale Tarn, which attracts a variety of wading birds, and includes a large organic farm at Stagsike, with flower-rich hay meadows. Nearby Bruthwaite New Wood features a mixed habitat suitable for black grouse. On the higher moors, look out for red grouse, curlew, golden plover and lapwing.
Follow a track straight ahead from the car park, passing a cottage at Tortie to approach old colliery cottages at Howgill. Note the little heaps of colliery spoil dotted around this area, marking the position of coal seams.
Turn left through a gate, then right as signposted for the Woodland Trail, and right again for the Bruthwaite Viewpoint. Small areas have been planted with saplings to create diverse habitats for birds.
A grassy path climbs past