Cycle Touring in Wales. Richard Barrett
your bike
Other than for a very short section on the old coach road between Newbridge-on-Wye and Rhayader, the road surface is remarkably good so you can ride the route on a road bike, a mountain bike or a hybrid/city bike. However, there are some things that you can do to make your ride more comfortable:
Leave your best carbon frame and carbon wheels at home.
Use tyres that are 28mm or wider as they will be more comfortable, especially over the short sections of gravel track that are occasionally encountered.
Swap mountain bike tyres for lower profile urban tyres, which require less effort and provide a quieter ride.
Fit a cassette with a 30-, 32- or 34-tooth sprocket to make it easier to climb hills.
Fit bar ends to straight handlebars so you have more choice for resting tired hands.
Fit a bell, which is essential for negotiating pedestrians on shared-use paths.
Whatever you choose, It is always advisable to have your bike serviced a couple of weeks before your trip, allowing sufficient time for any worn parts to be replaced and run-in before your departure. There are plenty of cycle shops on or near the route, see Appendix A for details.
Cycling dos and don’ts
Be considerate to others on shared-use paths, particularly to children and dogs, which can often behave unpredictably. Ring your bell or call out to pass – and always say thank you.
Although you can legally ride two abreast, quickly move into single file on minor roads always giving a cheery wave to thank considerate drivers.
Scan ahead for hazards, such as road furniture, grit and livestock detritus.
Avoid the green mossy strip along the centre of tree-lined roads as it may be slippery.
Always park your bike in a prominent position and secure it with a ‘café lock’ when you go exploring.
Ride across cattle grids square-on, standing on the pedals with your knees bent and you will hardly notice them.
Always use hand signals to make your intentions clear to others.
Eating
Cycling is strenuous so keep your energy reserves topped up by eating frequently, otherwise you will soon ‘hit the wall’ and feel tired and demotivated. However, it is best to avoid a full breakfast as it will weigh heavy for most of the morning. Get into the routine of eating little and often rather than waiting until you feel hungry, as by then it is frequently too late.
Many cyclists rely on things such as sandwiches, fruitcake, cereal bars and fruit. That’s not to say, you should ignore the region’s many inns and cafés; but err on the side of caution and stick to energy-giving snacks and pastries rather than a full midday meal.
A popular cycle café in Llantwit Major that goes the extra mile by providing cycle locks for customers to shackle their bikes to nearby railings
10 Foods to try in Wales
Bara brith (speckled bread) is a Welsh version of tea loaf enriched with dried fruit and mixed spices, usually served sliced and buttered.
Glamorgan sausage (selsig morgannwg), which is traditionally made from Caerphilly cheese, leeks, breadcrumbs and spices, was popular during World War II when meat was in short supply.
Cawl, often said to be the national dish of Wales, is a broth made from meat, potatoes, swedes, carrots and other seasonal vegetables, such as leeks.
Thought to have originated in the Welsh Valleys in the 18th century, Welsh rarebit is cheese on toast, sometimes mixed with onions, egg and milk and seasoned with salt and pepper.
Crempog is a pancake made with flour, buttermilk, eggs, vinegar and salted butter traditionally served on Shrove Tuesday and other days of celebration, such as birthdays.
By the time you finish the ride you will have seen thousands on the hillsides, so why not try Welsh lamb close to where it is reared.
Look out for the oggie – a D-shaped pasty made with lamb and leeks.
Welsh cakes are baked circular delights spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg and dusted in caster sugar.
Laverbread (bara lawr) is an edible seaweed usually served with toast or alongside bacon and eggs for breakfast.
Some quality craft beers are produced on or near the route: Brains, Bullmastiff and Crafty Devil (Cardiff); Vale of Glamorgan Brewery I (Barry); Tomos & Lilford Brewery (Llantwit Major); Borough Brewery and Neath Ales (Neath); Boss Brewing, Tomos Watkins and Mumbles Brewery (Swansea); Preseli Brewery (Tenby); Bluestone Brewing (Cilgwyn, Pembrokeshire); Penlon Cottage Brewery (New Quay); Purple Moose (Porthmadog); Great Orme Brewery and Wild Horse Brewing (Llandudno); Monty’s Brewery (Montgomery) and Tiny Rebel (Newport).
A road cyclist climbing the Nant Ffrancon Pass with Tryfan on the skyline (Cross route 1)
Phones and Wi-Fi
Although mobile coverage is generally good, phone users in Wales have the least access to 4G networks in the UK, so you may not be able to post your photos straight to social media when riding through the Cambrian Mountains in Mid Wales. However, many cafés and pubs provide free Wi-Fi access so you should not be offline for too long.
Emergencies
You may encounter few fellow cyclists along some of the more remote stages in Mid Wales, so it pays to be prepared for problems or emergencies. Should you have a good mobile phone signal, you can telephone the emergency services by dialling 999 or 112. However, it is always wise to let someone know your plans, particularly across the more remote hills between Machynlleth and Dolgellau on Cross route 3.
Waymarking
Where NCN routes are followed, they are generally well signed with fingerposts at major junctions and small blue repeater signs along the way. It can occasionally become confusing when signage for local routes takes precedent, when another NCN route briefly follows the same course or when signs are hidden behind undergrowth or temporarily misplaced. So it pays to be attentive at junctions, checking as you approach a junction and as you ride away from it to see if there is signage for riders going in the opposite direction.
Having the route downloaded on to a GPS, so that you get a reassuring beep at every junction, is also reassuring but not a necessity. However, GPS devices also have a nasty habit of losing satellite connection along the extensive tree-lined sections of the route, and you may need to carry a power pack to top up the battery while riding.
Maps
This book is designed to be small enough to carry with you and includes linear maps that are entirely adequate for following the route. However, they do not show much on either side of the route, such as where your overnight accommodation is located, so it is advisable to carry separate maps, such as those in the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger Series for such purposes.
Using this guide
Although the circumnavigation is organised into 12 stages, it is most likely you will choose to use one of the suggested alternative schedules or work out your own itinerary. Each stage starts and finishes at a location where there is a selection of different types of accommodation and good local facilities. At the beginning of each stage, an information box summarises the practical details associated with the stage, including the start and finish points (with grid references), distance, total ascent and numbers of the relevant Ordnance Survey map sheets