Backpacking Arizona. Bruce Grubbs
natural landmarks since mileage is difficult to measure in the backcountry and trail signs may be damaged or missing. Cross-country routes are described entirely by landmarks. Tips and Warnings are based on the author’s experience and are embedded in the text to call your attention to things that may make your trip safer and more enjoyable.
Possible Itinerary
A suggested plan for the primary trip is listed after the description, based on the author’s experience on the route. This may or may not include side trips. Side trips are clearly labeled as such. Treat itinerary as a starting point for your own trip planning, remembering that such things as water availability, trail conditions, and the fitness and experience level of the group will affect your final itinerary.
Optional Side Hikes, Shortcuts, and Alternate Routes
These are mentioned by name in the main description of each hike. An optional side hike offers you the chance to explore a feature, trail, or route off the main hike. These are usually done as out-and-back dayhikes. A shortcut is an optional route that shortens the length of the overall trip. An alternate route is an optional trail or route that is the same length or longer than the main trip.
Conquistador Aisle from The Esplanade, Grand Canyon National Park
General Tips on Backpacking in Arizona
WATER AND HEAT
Arizona is a desert state. The low deserts of the south and west sections of the state are dangerously hot in the summer. In this region, daily temperatures top 100˚F from May through mid September, and readings of 110 or higher are common. The extreme heat creates extreme aridity, and the combination is frequently deadly to unprepared desert travelers. Even in the mountainous north-central and eastern sections of Arizona, where temperatures are moderated by elevations from 7000 to over 12,000 feet, the thin air remains dry much of the year.
Dehydration is a constant concern for the Arizona backpacker, and all trips must be planned around available water sources. Never depend on a single water source, such as a spring, creek, rock tank, or even a water cache you’ve placed yourself. Many springs and creeks are seasonal, flowing only during and immediately after the winter and summer wet season. Even permanent springs and streams may go dry during droughts. Carry enough water as you hike so that you can retreat to the last water source if a source is unexpectedly dry. Drink plenty of water, more than required to quench your thirst. Your body loses moisture insensibly in dry air, and you start to become dehydrated before you become thirsty. Electrolyte replacement drinks are very useful. Become familiar with the symptoms of heat exhaustion and sunstroke. Heat exhaustion is a debilitating condition brought on by heat and dehydration. If untreated, heat exhaustion can lead to sunstroke, caused by a complete loss of the body’s ability to cool itself through sweating. Sunstroke is a serious medical emergency that is fatal if not treated immediately.
A useful skill to develop is the art of dry camping. When you have the freedom to camp well away from water sources, you’ll find that it opens up many wonderful new campsites, such as ridges, saddles, and even mountaintops. (Of course, you should avoid camping on ridges and mountaintops during the thunderstorm season.) Planning a dry camp doesn’t always mean carrying huge loads of water. A useful technique is to pick up water at a spring or creek late in the day and hike for another hour or two before camping. Arizona state law prohibits camping within 0.25 mile of a spring to allow wildlife access to water.
The best months to enjoy the lower elevation deserts are October through April. The days are commonly mild and clear, though temperatures may fall below freezing at night. Occasional winter rainstorms refresh the desert and bring out the late winter and spring flowers.
MOUNTAINS AND SNOW
At the other extreme, heavy snowfall is a frequent occurrence in the mountains above 6000 feet from December through March. Above 8000 feet, the snow pack is often several feet deep and makes backpacking impractical without snowshoes or skis. Snow falls in the fall and spring, but usually in small amounts that melt quickly. In the mountains, winter temperatures may drop well below zero, so the winter trekker must be prepared for the cold. For backpackers, the summer and autumn months are the best periods to enjoy the Arizona high country.
THE NORTH AMERICAN MONSOON
The hot, dry weather of May and June abruptly changes in July as a mass of moist tropical air typically moves in from the southeast. Skies, which have been clear for weeks, start to fill with puffy cumulus clouds by midmorning, and the afternoon often brings towering thunderstorms with strong gusty winds, heavy rain, hail, and lightning. Arizona lies at the northern limit of the North American Monsoon, which as the name implies is much more active south of the international border. The stormy weather follows a surge and break pattern, with active periods of several days or a week often followed by lulls when the moist air is pushed south of the state by minor weather disturbances. Still, take precautions during the monsoon. To avoid lightning, plan to be off high ridges and peaks by midday. Because of the potential for floods, never camp or park a vehicle in dry washes or other drainages. Heavy rain may fall in the headwaters, miles from your location, and cause streams and dry washes to rise suddenly and without warning. If thunderstorms are building during the afternoon, plan to camp in a sheltered area, if possible. Thunderstorm gust fronts can produce winds of 60 miles per hour or more. Although most hailstorms are extremely local in nature, and seldom produce hailstones larger than 0.25 inch, larger hailstones do occur and can be dangerous to hikers caught in the open. That said, the summer rains are a delight. Monsoon mornings dawn clear and sweet, with mountain meadows misty with dew, and the afternoon clouds and rain bring welcome relief from the midday heat.
Near West Baldy Trail, Mt Baldy Wilderness, Trip 10
RATTLESNAKES, SCORPIONS, AND OTHER CRITTERS
Generally speaking, animals are a minor hazard in Arizona’s backcountry. Rattlesnake bites are serious but uncommon among hikers, and they are rarely fatal. The best strategy is prevention. An awareness of rattlesnake habits allows you to avoid most unpleasant encounters. Rattlesnakes, like all snakes, are cold-blooded. They actively seek out surfaces that are about 80˚F. In hot weather, rattlers will be in the shade; in cool weather, they’ll be in the sun. In addition, they hibernate during the winter. If you see lizards about, it’s safe to assume that rattlesnakes may be out also. Rattlesnakes strike extremely fast, but only to a distance about half their body length. To avoid rattlesnakes, do not place your hands and feet within reach of a possible hidden snake. This is especially important when passing near shady spots in warm weather, where it may be difficult to spot a snake trying to keep cool. Remember that rattlesnakes are probably more afraid of you than you are of them. Most will rattle and give you plenty of warning. When you do hear the unmistakable strident buzz of a nearby snake, stop immediately and locate the snake before moving carefully away. If a person does get bitten, the main hazard is infection from the deep fang wounds and tissue damage from the venom. When rattlesnakes strike defensively, the bite is often dry. The venom is usually reserved for hunting bites, where the hemotoxic venom not only kills mice and other small prey but also starts the digestive process. Most snakebite victims have been handling or teasing snakes. But if a member of your party does get bitten, keep the victim calm and at rest, and send other members of the party for a rescue.
Scorpions have been far more fatal to Arizonians over the years than snakes, though the victims are usually the very young or infirm. The most dangerous scorpion, the Arizona Bark Scorpion (Centruroides excilicauda), a small, straw-colored species found in the lowest desert areas, poses little threat to most healthy adults. Few of the hikes in this guide are located in these areas. The more common larger scorpions are found everywhere, but their sting is no more dangerous than a wasp sting. Again, knowing the critter’s habits lets you avoid them. Scorpions are nocturnal, and during the day they lurk under rocks and logs. Always kick such objects with your boot before