101 Hikes in Southern California. Jerry Schad
the highest peak in the entire Peninsular Ranges province, 10,800-foot San Jacinto Peak would outrank all other Southern California peaks were it not for the slightly higher San Gorgonio massif looming just 20 miles north. For sheer dramatic impact, however, San Jacinto wins hands down. Viewed from I-10 outside Palm Springs, the north and east escarpments of San Jacinto appear to rise nearly straight up from the desert floor—10,000 feet in 10 miles or less. Every plant community we have mentioned so far except Joshua tree woodland thrives at one level or another on the mountain.
San Jacinto’s pine-clad western slopes shelter several resort communities (such as Idyllwild); otherwise nearly all of the mountain’s upper elevations lie within national-forest wilderness or state wilderness areas.
The Colorado Desert
East of the northernmost Peninsular Ranges lie Palm Springs, the Coachella Valley, and the Salton Trough (Salton Sea). They are within the domain known as the Colorado Desert—California’s low desert—so called because it stretches west from the lower Colorado River, which divides California from Arizona. A 1,000-square-mile chunk of the Colorado Desert lies within Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, by far the largest state park in California. Especially close and convenient for San Diegans, Anza-Borrego’s vast acreage ranges from intricately dissected, desiccated terrain known as badlands to the pinyon-juniper and yellow-pine forests of the Peninsular Ranges.
Lord’s candle yucca ranges from the coast to the desert rim.
The Laguna, Cuyamaca, Palomar, and Santa Ana Mountains
East and north of San Diego, the Peninsular Ranges consist of a number of parallel ranges—primarily the Laguna, Cuyamaca, and Palomar Ranges—each attaining heights of a little more than 6,000 feet. Chaparral blankets the slopes of these mountains, while the typical yellow-pine assemblage of oak, pine, cedar, and fir dominates the higher elevations. Farther north and west, bordering the rapidly expanding urban zones of southwestern Riverside and southern Orange County, lie the Santa Ana Mountains. They are the northernmost coastal expressions of the Peninsular Ranges.
Oak woodland shelters Cole Creek, Santa Rosa Plateau Ecological Reserve (Hike 70).
Suburban sprawl has crept into the foothills of these far-southern ranges, and in some cases threatens to degrade the higher elevations as well. Fortunately, large parts of this mountainous region lie within the jurisdiction of Cleveland National Forest and various state parks.
All the mountain ranges rimming San Diego have been hard-hit recently by both drought and catastrophic wildfire. The 300,000-acre Cedar Fire, which blazed an elongated path across central San Diego County in October 2003, burned through primarily chaparral and oak woodland, and secondarily through prime oak and coniferous forest, mostly in the Cuyamaca Mountains. The chaparral and oak woodlands of lower elevation, adapted to periodic fires, have largely recovered. The formerly lush Cuyamaca Mountains may never look quite the same, however, unless the climate shifts back to a wetter regime.
Health, Safety, and Courtesy
GOOD PREPARATION is always important for any kind of recreational pursuit. Hiking the Southern California backcountry is no exception. Although most of the Southland’s natural environments are seldom hostile or dangerous to life and limb, there are some pitfalls to be aware of.
Preparation and Equipment
An obvious safety requirement is being in good health. Some degree of physical conditioning is always desirable, even for the trips in this book designated as easy or moderate. The more challenging trips require increasing amounts of stamina and technical expertise. Running, bicycling, swimming, aerobics, or any similar exercise that develops both your leg muscles and the aerobic capacity of your whole body are recommended as preparatory exercise.
For the longest hikes in this book, there is no really adequate way to prepare other than hiking itself. Start with easy-or moderate-length trips, and then work gradually toward extending both distance and time.
Several of the hiking trips in this book reach elevations of 7,000 feet or more—altitudes at which sea-level folks may notice a big difference in their rate of breathing and stamina. A few hours or a day spent at altitude before exercising will help almost anyone acclimate, but that’s often impractical for day trips. Still, you might consider spending a night or two at a campground with some altitude before tackling the likes of 11,500-foot San Gorgonio Mountain. Altitude sickness strikes some victims at elevations as low as 8,000 feet. If you become dizzy or nauseated, or suffer from congested lungs or a severe headache, the antidote may be as simple as descending 1,000–2,000 feet.
Your choice of equipment and supplies on the longer hikes in this book can be critically important. The essentials you should carry with you at all times in the remote backcountry are the things that would allow you to survive, in a reasonably comfortable manner, one or two unscheduled nights out. It’s important to note that no one ever plans these nights! No one plans to get lost, injured, stuck, or pinned down by the weather. Always do a “what if” analysis for a worst-case scenario, and plan accordingly. These essential items are your safety net; keep them with you on day hikes, and take them with you in a small day pack if you leave your backpack and camping equipment behind at a campsite.
Chief among the essential items is warm clothing. Inland Southern California is characterized by wide swings in day and night temperatures. In mountain valleys susceptible to cold-air drainage, for example, a midday temperature in the 70s or 80s is often followed by a subfreezing night. Carry light, inner layers of clothing consisting of polypropylene or wool (best for cool or cold weather) or cotton (adequate for warm or hot weather but very poor for cold and damp weather). Include a thicker insulating layer of synthetic fill, wool, or down to put on whenever you need it, especially when you are not moving around and generating heat. Add to these items a cap, gloves, and a waterproof or water-resistant shell (a large trash bag will do in a pinch)—and you’ll be quite prepared for all but the most severe weather. In hot, sunny weather, sun-shielding clothing, including a sun hat and a light-colored, long-sleeve top, may also be essential.
Water and food are next in importance. Most streams and even some springs in the mountains have been shown to contain unacceptably high levels of bacteria or other contaminants. Even though most of the remote watersheds are probably pristine, it’s wise to treat by filtering or chemical methods any water obtained outside of developed camp or picnic sites. Unless the day is very warm or your trip is a long one, it’s usually easiest to carry (preferably in sturdy plastic bottles or a CamelBak) all the water you’ll need. Don’t underestimate your water needs: During a full day’s hike in 80° temperatures you may require as much as a gallon of water. Know, too, that many springs and watercourses—even some shown as being permanent on topographic maps—may run dry at some point during the summer. Food is necessary to stave off the feeling of hunger and keep your energy stores up, but it is not nearly as critical as water is in emergency situations where you are in danger of dehydration.
Farther down the list but still essential are a map and compass (or a GPS unit and knowing how to use it), a flashlight, fire-starting devices (for example, waterproof matches, a lighter, or a candle), and a first-aid kit.
Items not always essential, but potentially very useful and convenient, are sunglasses, a pocketknife, a whistle (or other signaling device), sunscreen, and toilet paper. (Note: Sunglasses are an essential item for travel over snow.)
Every member of a hiking party should carry all these essential items because individuals or splinter groups may end up separating from the party for one reason or another. If you plan to hike solo in the backcountry, being well-equipped is very important. If you hike alone, be sure to check in with a park ranger or leave your itinerary with a responsible person. That way, if you do get stuck, help will probably come to the right place—eventually.
Special Hazards
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