Powder Ghost Towns. Peter Bronski
rel="nofollow" href="#fb3_img_img_02047a23-595f-575d-a893-fbb5e9689ec4.jpg" alt="image"/> Old Snowy Range (an old ski area north of Libby Creek and west of present-day Snowy Range ski area)
The Snowy Range in southeastern Wyoming (southwest of Laramie) is an extension of the Medicine Bow Mountains that begins at Cameron Pass in Colorado. The earliest history of lift-served skiing in the Snowies, as they’re known locally, seems to belong to the Old Snowy Range ski area. The details, though, have been lost to the sands of time. Very little is known about this area, including its years of operation. Its location, on the other hand, is known: it operated on the slopes of a small, rounded mountain in the area bounded by Nash Fork/ Highway 130, the Barber Lake Road, and Forest Road 351-g.
Then, sometime in the 1930s, the Libby Creek ski area came onto the scene. It was one quarter mile south of present-day Snowy Range ski area, and one mile south of Old Snowy Range ski area. Though its exact opening year is uncertain, its “glory days” spanned the late 1930s and throughout the 1940s (in 1938 the U.S. Forest Service documented 6800 skiers at Libby). It was considered too steep for most skiers (most runs were “expert”), and had a small, avalanche-prone area (called “Gully” in “The Descents”). It operated sporadically throughout World War II and into the 1950s.
Libby Creek had only limited parking along the side of old Highway 130 (Barber Lake Road). You couldn’t actually drive to the base of the ski area. From the roadside parking along the highway, you’d walk down a set of wooden stairs that descended a scree and talus slope. From the bottom of the stairs, you’d clip into your skis and ski across a meadow to the base lodge. From there you could at last hop on one of two rope tows or a chairlift. At the end of the day you had to hike out back to your car.
By 1957 or 1958, Libby Creek closed. But soon, a new area was coming into its own. In March 1959, Forest Service rangers made a reconnaissance of the Nash Fork (near present-day Highway 130). They drove to the Libby Creek ski area, and then headed north on foot and on skis. The official opinion: the potential ski area was more desirable than both Libby Creek and Happy Jack (an area along Interstate 80 east of Laramie). Building the new ski area, however, would require an access road (present-day Forest Road 351-g—Approach 2 in the following sections).
The Forest Service, though, didn’t think anyone would want to develop it. Nevertheless, the agency opened it up for bids on August 1, 1959. Six short months later, in January 1960, a Kansas City group signed a 30-year permit. The Nash Fork ski area opened as Medicine Bow for the 1960/1961 season with two T-bars serving 600 feet of vertical, a shelter house, restaurant, and parking lot. Later, in the 1980s, a chairlift was added, and the name changed again to Snowy Range Ski Area. Today, Snowy Range has four chairlifts and a “magic carpet” serving 1000 feet of vertical on 27 trails. As of April 2008, Snowy Range Ski Area was for sale, everything included, for the price of $6.5 million.
Libby Creek, meanwhile, has become a consummate backcountry destination.
THE TRAILHEAD
The old Libby Creek ski area is located in the Snowy Range along Barber Lake Road, which is closed in winter. Because of this, there are four possible trailheads, and four corresponding approaches, for the Libby Creek ski area. No one option is necessarily better than another. It’s simply a matter of personal preference (mine is for Approach 3, but pick your poison). I describe them here in the order they’re encountered as you drive west up into the Snowy Range from Centennial.
From Centennial, Wyoming, continue west on Highway 130 (Snowy Range Scenic Byway) for 1.75 miles to the Medicine Bow National Forest/Centennial Information Center on the right-hand side of the road. Park here for Approach 1.
One quarter mile beyond the information center, pass the lower junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road (remember it’s closed in winter). Continue on Highway 130. Three miles beyond the information center, you’ll arrive at the turnoff for the Snowy Range Ski Area. For Approach 2, turn left here, as if you’re going to the ski area. The road descends toward the ski area. Shortly before arriving at the base of the ski area, the road forks. The left fork descends to the ski area parking lot and base lodge. The right fork ascends slightly to a maintenance area and parking lot for snow-grooming equipment. Although it may feel wrong, this is where you’re supposed to go. Park here for the Medicine Bow Trailhead, the start of Approach 2.
The “Buzz”
The northeast aspect of the ski area holds powder really well, even when there hasn’t been a fresh snowfall for a while. Though the trailhead was bitterly cold and windy, Libby Creek stayed well-protected and was a ton of fun.
—Josh W.
Otherwise, remain on Highway 130 heading west, and after another 2 miles, arrive at the upper junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road. This junction is marked by a sign, an abundance of trucks and trailers for snowmobiles, and a sign indicating the winter closure of the Snowy Range Scenic Byway just beyond. Park here for Approach 3.
Finally, for Approach 4, continue another 0.75 mile beyond the upper junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road, and park at the Green Rock Trailhead on the left-hand side of the road. This trailhead is for skiers only; snowmobiles aren’t allowed in the parking lot or on the trails.
THE APPROACH
The four possible approaches are described here in the same order as their corresponding trailheads in the previous section:
Approach 1
Uphill on the way in, downhill on the way out
From the information center, shoulder your skis and walk west along the shoulder of Highway 130 for a quarter mile to the lower junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road. Click in to your skis and skins and follow Barber Lake Road west. After 1 mile, pass Barber Lake, and after 2 miles, you should be directly across the valley from the old Libby Creek ski area. The road is on the north side of the valley, beneath some small, south-facing cliffs. The valley drops down to the south, and the open runs and arrow-straight slot in the trees that was the lift line should be plainly visible to the southwest. As an additional landmark, the road here rounds a sharp bend, turning from west to north. From here (UTM: 13 400416 4576042), drop off the road, descending a talus slope and then a tree-covered slope to the base of the valley. Here you’ll intersect the Barber Lake Trail, which follows Libby Creek. Turn left (southeast) on the trail, and follow it to a small opening in the trees where the trail meets the creek. Cross the creek, and then continue southwest through the trees to a large, open meadow at the base of the ski area (UTM: 13 400166 4575906).
A skier in fresh powder on the Pitch at Libby Creek
Approach 2
Uphill and downhill on the way in, uphill and downhill on the way out
From the Medicine Bow Trailhead at the Snowy Range Ski Area, follow Forest Road 351-g west-southwest for 1 mile to its intersection with Barber Lake Road. At Barber Lake Road, turn left (southeast) and continue for another mile. From here, drop off the road and continue as for Approach 1.
Approach 3
Downhill on the way in, uphill on the way out
From the upper junction of Highway 130 and Barber Lake Road, start out heading east on Barber Lake Road. Almost immediately, you’ll have to make the first of two decisions. After less than a quarter of a mile, the Barber Lake Trail Cutoff heads right (south) into the trees. You can either stay on the Barber Lake Road (which has good views of the valley but is exposed to wind and open to snowmobile travel), or take the Barber Lake Trail Cutoff, which ducks into the protection and quiet of the trees, and is slightly shorter.
If you stay on Barber Lake Road, continue for three-quarters of a mile to a pair of sharp switchbacks before