The Dales Way. Terry Marsh
between Oughtershaw and Dentdale, for example, would test the most experienced walkers, and there are many sections where the conditions underfoot are potentially treacherous. But you are seldom far from help or shelter, while the discomforts and privations generally associated with long backpacking trips are unlikely to prove a burden for long.
The beauty of upper Wharfedale, from near Buckden (Stage 3)
There is no question that over the years of the Dales Way’s existence it has significantly helped the local economies along its length, and many isolated farmhouses will now gladly furnish walkers with a range of facilities. But you should remember to respect property and privacy, especially at times of the year critical to the welfare of the farming economy. Take great care during lambing time between March and May (sometimes a little earlier), when dogs must be under firm control. From May into summer many of the seemingly lush meadows, alongside the rivers provide a vital hay crop for the hill farmer. Where the Way goes through such fields, make a point of travelling in single file to avoid damage. It may be grass to us, but it is part of a livelihood to a farmer. Towards the end of the year, from mid August, is the grouse-shooting season, and while this doesn’t often affect the Way, there are stretches where shooting does take place, on the flanks of Blea Moor, for example.
One of the great attractions of the Dales Way is that it is rarely far from features of architectural, social, ecological or historic interest – churches, bridges, manor houses, shooting lodges, Roman roads, ancient stone circles, packhorse bridges, suspension bridges, viaducts, nature trails – the Dales Way has them all. It is, too, rich in plants and animals, unbelievably so, and walkers intending to tackle the way in one go would do well to allow time each day to take everything in, rather than barging on, head down, making for the next overnight halt. The interest never lets up, from the first step to the last. This surely is a hallmark of the greatest of walks, and in the case of the Dales Way, a fitting testimony to the skill and vision of the men and women who pioneered its route.
It is, too, a walk for all seasons, although spring and autumn have the edge. But with careful planning, a winter walk is not beyond the bounds of reason, and certain to add a whole new perspective to the landscape.
In recent years, the Dales Way, like much of Britain, has been subject to devastating winter storm damage, and this has resulted in some minor route changes and/or temporary diversions. The Dales Way Association (www.dalesway.org) keep an eye on any changes that are necessary, both temporary and permanent. So, it is a good idea, before setting off, to check their website for any updates. The Association’s website also contains detailed information about the Dales Way, and now has an online version of the former Dales Way Handbook, last printed in 2012.
Reaching the River Lune, near Lincoln’s Inn Bridge (Stage 5)
PLANNING THE WALK
Suggested itineraries
Walking the Dales Way must be what you want it to be. It is not a forced march, something you must do in so many days. This is a walk to be enjoyed in a leisurely manner; something to take your time over and to use as a gateway to explore the countryside that lies to either side of it.
The Trek Planner at the beginning of the book shows the distance from and between each of the principal halts, and shows what facilities are available at those locations. Using this, it is possible to construct a walk that suits everyone, but it is stressed how important it is not to be over ambitious in planning a day’s walk.
The whole route is divided into six stages, each of which is of a length comfortable enough for regular, fit walkers. The possible exceptions are the stages from Buckden to Cowgill at Dent Head, which is 17 miles (27.5km) long, and from Millthrop, Sedbergh to Staveley, which is 19 miles (31km), although there is a little scope for breaking them into smaller sections without adjusting other stages of the walk.
Each of the stages represents an artificial linking together of two or more places that provide accommodation in some shape or form. The table below shows suggestions for three possible itineraries for the whole-route – but these are only suggestions, and you must plan your daily walk according to your own strengths, abilities and wishes.
| Average day length: 13¼ miles (21km) | Average day length: 11½ miles (18.5km) | Average day length: 10 miles (16km) |
| 6 days | 7 days | 8 days |
| Ilkley | Ilkley | Ilkley |
| Burnsall | Burnsall | Burnsall |
| Kettlewell | ||
| Buckden | Buckden | |
| Hubberholme | ||
| Cowgill (Dent Head) | Cowgill (Dent Head) | Cowgill (Dent Head) |
| Dent | Dent | |
| Sedbergh | Sedbergh | Sedbergh |
| Burneside | ||
| Staveley | Staveley | |
| Bowness-on-Windermere | Bowness-on-Windermere | Bowness-on-Windermere |
When to go
The footbridge spanning Gayle Beck, near Holme Hill (Stage 3)
The Dales Way is a route that can be tackled at any time of year – although not all the accommodation is open all year. The relative low-level profile of the route means that for much of the journey it is sheltered by surrounding fells.
But, in terms of pastoral beauty there is no better time than April to early June, when flowers are at their most abundant, and birdlife is active and prolific. September and October, too, prove to be ideal times, coming into autumn with colourful changes to the landscape. The summer months are perfectly acceptable, but there will be more visitors on holiday, which means accommodation can become fully booked.
Getting there… and back
Getting to the start at Ilkley is easy with regular train services direct from Leeds and Bradford. Long-distance rail services from London and intermediate stations operate to Leeds by Virgin Trains East Coast (London King’s Cross) and West Coast (London Euston, via Manchester) services.
Returning from Windermere station, there are connections at Oxenholme for London, Manchester and Lancaster (connect at Lancaster for Skipton, Shipley and Leeds). Note, however, that Windermere station is 1.5 miles (2.5km) from the end of the Dales Way at Bowness, but there is a bus service that will get you there…or you can take a taxi if time is of the essence.
For a short distance, the Dales Way passes close to the West Coast railway line (Stage 5)
Public transport