Annapurna. Siân Pritchard-Jones
La on the Circuit is also risky – heavy snow makes this dangerous, with a risk of avalanche even before the pass is reached.
The spring trekking season runs from late February to early May. The weather is generally stable, although clouds are likely to cover the mountains more often, and it will be hotter and quite muggy in the lower valleys. Haze is another factor for those who want their mountains crisp and clear for photography. Trekkers interested in flowering plants always favour the spring, when the rhododendrons and magnolia are spectacular. Wind tends to be a factor at this time of year, particularly closer to the Tibetan plateau, north of Manang or Muktinath.
Trekking at the height of summer, July and August, is not recommended and is totally frustrating for those hoping to see mountain vistas. Cloud, rain and snow can be expected at any time from mid-June to mid-September. The monsoon also brings landslides, leeches and flooding – so forget it, or keep to the lowest foothills around Pokhara.
OFFICIAL HOLIDAYS
1 January New Year
19 February Democracy Day
14 April Nepali New Year
23 April Democracy Day
1 May Labour Day
28 May Republic Day
There are also many other religious festive days.
For comprehensive listings see www.qppstudio.net and click on Nepal.
Style of trekking
Pony express: taking the deluxe option from Manang to the Thorong La (Trek 1)
The type of trek you are considering will dictate the itinerary. Very little of modern-day Nepal is wilderness. Trekking trails link the villages and are surprisingly busy; local porters, people off to markets, children scurrying about, dogs, monkeys, cows and trekkers all share these routes.
Fully supported group treks
For many this is the preferred option, providing maximum security for visitors. The tour operator removes many of the difficulties and discomforts associated with other ways of organising a trek. Visas and permits can be easily procured, transport does not have to be considered and all day-to-day logistics such as accommodation, food and carriage of baggage will be taken care of. Most trips will be fully inclusive, with few added extras. Clients can relax and admire the scenery around the Annapurnas in as much comfort as possible. Group treks utilise both lodge accommodation and tents; take your pick.
Note that there are some disadvantages to commercial group trekking. Large groups with the support of a Nepali crew have more impact on the local environment. Sometimes clients have to wait at camp for the gear to arrive, although lodges will be well stocked with drinks and refreshments. A major disadvantage is that there is less flexibility on a pre-organised itinerary. You may also be hiking with fellow trekkers who have underestimated the challenges and may not be in the best of spirits. In general, however, most hikers enjoy the conviviality of like-minded fellow walkers.
One other unnecessary danger is the possible effect of ‘peer pressure’ within the group. At its worst this can overrule common sense, with some members ignoring symptoms of altitude sickness in the unacknowledged race to compete. Do not fall into this lethal trap.
A typical group trekker’s day
The day begins at dawn for most trekkers, but fully supported walkers can expect a mug of tea and a bowl of hot water thrust through a tent flap or lodge doorway at around 6am. This is the wake-up call and means ‘get up now and pack your bags’. During breakfast, tents will be dismantled and the porter loads organised. Lodge trekkers can luxuriate in a warm dining area. Poor old campers will have to take the weather as it comes. With breakfast over and the loads packed, it’s off on the trail.
The morning walks tend to be a little longer to get the best of the morning’s clarity. Three to four hours is an average hiking period before lunch, including the odd tea stop along the way. Those on a lodge-based trek will find lunch ‘fooding’ easily on the main routes. Campers can slouch along until the kitchen boys and the cook come racing by to get ahead of the group to prepare lunch. It might be pancakes, bread or chips, tinned meat, fruit and other tasty goodies – probably a wider selection than available to the lodgers.
Afternoon walks are around three hours, although some days are inevitably longer because of the terrain. Campers should watch the kitchen boys and not get ahead of them. Afternoon tea and biscuits are served for campers (and group) lodgers on arrival at the night’s halt. Now is the time to read, rest or explore the locality. Dinner comes piping hot a little after sunset and may be a three-course delight. And that’s the day done for campers, bar crawling into that sleeping bag. Lodge guests can utilise the light, enjoying a beer or sampling the often dubiously produced local brews. (Be warned that so doing can adversely affect your health!) Take care with alcohol at altitude. It may be best to avoid it altogether.
Trek crews
Group trek porters in the rhododendron forest near Siklis (Trek 11)
Some of the following will also apply to small private groups and to independent trekkers hiring local staff. Normally the trek is led by a Nepalese guide who speaks good English and has done the trip many times before. Under him will be the most important member of the crew (not counting the cook): the Sirdar. His function (which can also be as leader/guide in a small group) is to organise all the porters, cooks and accompanying sherpas. With as many as 50 staff for a big camping group on a long trek, he certainly is a busy man. The cook naturally is in the spotlight; he will have several kitchen boys with him who will race ahead of the group to prepare lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. They carry all the cooking gear and often sing along the way.
In addition, there will be several sherpas. Some – although not all – may be from the Sherpa ethnic group who live in the Everest region. The term ‘sherpa’ in this context refers to the job of guiding the group, with one at the front and one bringing up the rear of the party. Big groups often have other sherpas floating between the front and rear guard. They also put up the dining tent and tents for the campers. Then there are the porters, as many as 30–40 for a large camping group. In such cases there will also be a Naiki (head porter), who takes some of the responsibilities from the Sirdar, organising and distributing the loads. The Naiki is often seen in the mornings adding items to a lighter load, causing some amusement and embarrassing the culprit who has offloaded a heavy bag on to a colleague in the hope of an easier day.
When booking a trek, be sure to check if all the food and meals are included. In recent years there has been a tendency for some companies to allow members on lodge treks to order and pay for all their own meals. This has happened because of the ever-rising costs in the mountains and because not including food appears to give a competitive edge in terms of the price of the trek. Do check this aspect of the ‘fully inclusive’ arrangement.
Independently organised trips
For those with more time, or who do not want to be locked into the group ethos, this is a good option, offering a great deal of freedom. Participants will be able to design and follow their own itinerary, according to their preferred length of trip and other special interests.
Organising a trip through an agent in the UK or Nepal for a couple or a small group is not necessarily more expensive than a group departure. Booking directly in Kathmandu is cheaper, but there is an increased risk because you will not be covered by any company liability if things go wrong. Be sure to have adequate insurance cover for helicopter rescue. These days there are a number of excellent local agents in Kathmandu who are very experienced in dealing with trekkers approaching them directly.
Contacting a local operator in Nepal is normally straightforward, although they might be unable to answer immediately at times because of regular, scheduled power cuts (known as load shedding). If