The Food of New Orleans. John DeMers
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Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
Copyright © 1998
Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0544-7 (ebook)
LCC Number 97069546
Acknowledgments
The publisher gratefully acknowledges the assistance of the following people in the preparation of this book: Jean-Luc Maumus, chef Greg Picolo, and the entire staff of The Bistro and the Hotel Maison de Ville; chef Dominique Macquet, who was instrumental in the preparation of the food for photography; Dinah and Rich Launch of Bay Tree Plantation; Mrs. Ong for her invaluable help with props and logistical support during the photo shoot; Vaughn Schmitt of Creole Country, John Abernathy and Donald Welty of Carriage Foods, Bubba Scott of Bubba's Produce Company, and Donna Patrick of Inland Seafood; and the many New Orleans chefs and shop owners who generously contributed to the book. The publisher also wishes to thank Mr. Patrick Robert, guide extraordinaire, for his fascinating introduction to the River Road and its many notable sights.
Photo Credits: (Page numbers correspond to the print edition.) All food photographs by John Hay. Additional photos by: John Hay, p. 3; Syndey Byrd, pp. 2, 12-19, 22-24, 26; Alex Demyan, p. 25; Frank Lotz Miller, p. 10. Water-color page 6 (detail) by Boyd Cruise; photograph page 8 by Charles L. Franck Photographers; photograph on page 9 by Charles Genella, and images on pages 1 and 7 are reproduced courtesy of the Williams Research Center, The Historic New Orleans Collection.
Behind the Scenes
The making of this book was a labor of love for our entire creative team. Each book in the World Foods series strives for authenticity in every sense of the word. This meant, first of all, finding the best chefs and gathering the best recipes in all of New Orleans. It meant getting expert New Orleans-based writers who know the city's cuisine inside and out. It meant gathering the most beautiful objects on which to serve the food. And it meant shooting each dish on location in the city's best restaurants, among curious diners and bustling waiters, or carting gallons of boiled seafood to create the ultimate picnic on the rolling lawns of a Louisiana plantation. We've emerged from this creative whirlwind with a thorough appreciation for the food, music, and history of this charming city, and we hope you will savor this experience yourself in the pages that follow.
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Contents
Introduction 5
Crescent City Culinary Origins 6
PART TWO: COOKING IN NEW ORLEANS
The New Orleans Kitchen 29
Basic Recipes 39
Brunch 42
Appetizers 48
Soups, Stews, and Gumbos 64
Rice and Vegetables 76
Fish and Shellfish 80
Meat and Poultry 104
Desserts 118
Cocktails 130
Additional Recipes 133
Sources of Ingredients 137
Shopping Guide 138
On Location 139
Restaurant Guide 140
Contributors 141
No Mardi Gras celebration would be complete without the traditional Red Beans and Rice with Com Bread See page 133 for recipes.
Part One: Food in New Orleans
On the foundations of Creole and Cajun cooking, a city builds a temple to terrific food
by John DeMers
Lavishly festooned with magnolia and bougainvillea, New Orleans is an American city unlike any other. This steamy Southern metropolis is well loved for its charming architecture, its music—especially jazz—and its riotous Mardi Gras celebration. Yet most of all, it is revered for its food.
The city's unique history—it was founded by French colonists in the eighteenth century—and location at the mouth of the Mississippi River have given it a