Silk Road Vegetarian. Dahlia Abraham-Klein
1994. In the ensuing years, I helped patients with chronic health issues—many related to food sensitivities. As a frequent guest on the Gary Null Radio Show, I addressed the concerns of listeners struggling with the same problems I once faced.
MY CULINARY CONVERSION
I’d been veering toward vegetarianism shortly after my second marriage to my South African husband. Mervin was already accustomed to healthy eating, purchasing food from the local food co-op and preparing homemade South African vegetarian meals. South Africa is a melting pot of cuisines, thanks to several waves of massive immigration, particularly Indian. Gastronomically speaking, we create an interesting Central Asian-African blend.
The turning point in our commitment to meat abstinence was shortly after we adopted Flynn, a sweet-natured cocker spaniel with an uncannily human face and a sweet, honest spirit. Abused by previous owners who cruelly dumped him onto the streets of Manhattan, Flynn was terribly skittish. He needed my full attention and pampering to recover from his ordeal.
On one particular Sabbath, my son, husband, and I, with Flynn by our side, sat at the table. Mervin recited the blessing over the wine and bread. That night I served garlic-rosemary roasted chicken. As I gazed at the headless chicken on my table, I looked over at Flynn’s gentle face, and I was struck by an epiphany. I realized that his presence in my life had altered my way of thinking. I questioned whether I could live with and love this needy animal while remaining a meat-eater. My conscience stung. Why was it okay to kill even one animal when we are all part of nature?
Thinking back, it’s no wonder that this thought struck me while we were sitting together over a sacred Sabbath meal, which is carefully chosen and prepared to remind us that we are not alone in the world, but are part of a collective wave of conscious thought on how we sow, how we harvest, how we slaughter, and how we eat. My relationship with Flynn taught me that vegetarianism is life-affirming; a vegetarian lifestyle expresses gratitude for our animal kingdom, rather than entitlement and ownership.
As my commitment to healthy and ethical eating grew, it was a natural progression to begin to purchase my foods from a local source. I decided to start a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program in my neighborhood. Golden Earthworm Farm became my partner, with some 40 like-minded households. The community connects through the rituals of harvesting, cooking, and sharing. We thrive on the joy of cooking whole foods and breaking bread together.
As time went on, I noticed that, as enthusiastic as they were, many of the CSA members had no idea what to do with some of the produce in their boxes. I was only too happy to share recipes, which culminated in my compiling a seasonal cookbook. Silk Road Vegetarian is an outgrowth of that first volume.
LOCAL AND SEASONAL EATING
It’s amazing to think that less than fifty years ago, almost all fruits and vegetables throughout the world were locally produced. That meant that people in tropical climates would have eaten tropical fruit in the fall, and people in northern climates would have eaten fruits like apples and pears. Today, most fruits in the supermarket are picked long before they are ripe, and sit in a truck or depot ripening for weeks before they get to us. But there’s a cost to this method, and it’s paid in quality. Foods that need to be shipped long distances are genetically bred to look presentable even when they’re old, rather than bred for taste or nutrition. The longer the produce sits before being eaten, the less its nutritional value to us.
When we purchase from a supermarket, we often don’t take into account the distance the produce must travel to reach our plates and the intervention that takes place to keep it in optimum condition. By buying from a farmers’ market or becoming a member of a CSA program—that is, buying a subscription for a season’s worth of produce from a local farm—you can be sure that your produce has been picked the same day that it’s ripe and delivered that very same day, as well. In this way, we are getting the optimal nutrition from the foods we eat, while minimizing energy consumption and waste involved in transporting foods for great distances.
Here I’m wearing a traditional silk Bukharian brocade reserved for special occasions.
My husband and I wearing silk jomahs.
The notion of buying locally grown produce might seem to be a bit of a conundrum in colder climates, where the growing season is short. However, winter root vegetables, some hothouse-grown foods, and preserved and frozen produce can be substituted for fresh.
As we understand and respond to the relationship between planet and plate, we can regain the balance in our lives and on our planet, reawaken our taste buds, and leave the world a better place for future generations.
AND SO, A BOOK
These recipes are inspired by my mother’s Silk Road cookery, and all the ingenious, loving Silk Road cooks who came before her. In my imagination, I’ve extended Silk Road cuisine all the way to Long Island, as I make use of local ingredients and combine them with seeds, pods, spices, and everything in-between to mimic the essence and flavor of the trade route. And in the same way that Central Asian food was adapted to varying tastes and lifestyles along the Silk Road, I have adapted my recipes to our modern American techniques and sensibilities.
My recipes also reflect my own preference for vegetarian fare that is free of wheat, gluten, and dairy. (Each recipe is labeled to identify its vegan, dairy-free, and gluten-free status.) I’ve tried to make the dishes appealing to all, whether strict or “occasional” vegetarians. For meat eaters who experience vegetarian meals as lacking fullness, Silk Road-style spices can add a whole new dimension to your food.
Unloading another fresh delivery from Golden Earthworm farm on the east end of Long Island, New York.
CSA member pick up.
I have heard some complain that a vegetarian diet is too time consuming and labor intensive for our modern world. It’s true that this food requires a good bit of peeling and chopping. Remember, though, that a good and healthy vegetarian diet isn’t supposed to be eaten in a car or on the run. Enjoying flavors and food, whether in the presence of those you care for or on your own, is good for your soul—your spirit will sit up and take notice.
Because I’m not a trained chef and have no formal culinary education, I have been very conscientious in creating a recipe book that is easy to follow. If I can cook these dishes, anyone can! Regardless of previous experience in the kitchen, these recipes are accessible to the home cook. While some require more practice and skill, most are suitable for the novice.
By both personal inclination and the tenets of my religion, I passionately believe we must all be good stewards of our planet. I’ve designed my recipes to foster seasonal eating. To this end, I’ve also included a section on food preservation through freezing (page 35) for readers whose local farms don’t have a year-round growing season. In this way, when you have an abundant supply of produce, you can preserve it when fresh and use it when it’s not in season.
Sharing my dishes with you is a sacred experience for me and I share them with love, from my heart and my hands, in the hope that when we cook together, we can create a groundswell of well-being for all. It is at the table that we connect with one another, our animals, our land, and our past. Cook, eat and enjoy!
The Spice Pantry
The exotic scent of spices—rich, alluring and almost magical. Fragrances that infuse the air