Project Charger. Larry Lyles

      PHOTO 3: All we really want is a little room to work. The Charger is raised approximately 18 inches off the floor (measured from rocker pinch weld to the floor) via the jack stands. The pads under the stands are made from 3/4 MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). They eliminate the metal to concrete contact between the stands and the floor, reducing the chances of the Charger slipping off the stands.

      Using similar principles, I can see how to suspend my Charger. For the front suspension, the Charger uses a bolt-on engine cradle, or K-frame, which also serves as the mounting points for the lower suspension arms. The upper control arms are bolted to the unitized structure of the vehicle.

      The forward jack stand placement points can be found in an area directly underneath the cowl structure near the rear of the front boxed frame rails. Find the rear jack stand placement points in an area directly forward and inboard of the rear suspension mounting points (spring hangers), which are located on outer reinforcing box rails between the rear box rails and the rocker panel structure.

      Once the jack stands are in place with the vehicle lifted off the floor, there is the problem of overhang. To get a better idea of exactly what overhang is, try opening a door on your project vehicle once you have it positioned atop the jack stands. You will find the doors hard to open and almost impossible to close. This is a direct result of overhang, which happens when the weight of the engine puts stress on the unitized structure of the body itself. Of course, at a later point in the restoration process, we will be removing the engine, thus eliminating the problem of overhang, but, for now, we need to contend with the problem.

      Correcting overhang is as simple as placing a hydraulic jack under the engine cradle and applying just enough upward pressure with the jacking ram to take the engine weight off the vehicle structure. You know you have compensated for overhang when the doors once again open and shut like they should. That is why it’s important to adjust the doors before placing the car up on jack stands. We need a reference point to know when we have alleviated the overhang. Leave the jack in place under the engine. Note: I prefer to use a 4-ton portable jacking ram to hold up the engine and relieve overhang. Once the jack is in place and I’ve compensated for overhang, I remove the hose and pump from the jacking ram to reduce the clutter beneath the vehicle.

      Now it’s time to remove the tires and wheels and begin work. Having the vehicle supported by jack stands is relatively safe compared to supporting the vehicle with a floor jack. However, let’s take one more step toward safety by sliding the tires and wheels back under the vehicle at each brake drum. Should the unthinkable happen and the vehicle slip off the jack stands, the wheels will be there to catch the vehicle before it mashes you flat.

      Lose the Liquids

      I start work on the vehicle by first disconnecting the battery and then draining the engine, transmission, and radiator of all fluids. Disconnecting the battery is for safety, while draining the fluids prevents messes all over the floor later on. The engine and radiator drain simply enough—I just loosen the drain plugs and allow the fluids to run into a catch pan.

      The automatic transmission (standard transmissions need not be drained) has to be treated a little differently, as most transmissions don’t have drain plugs. I place a large catch pan under the transmission and begin loosening the pan bolts.

      The transmission pan is the large, flat pan located on the bottom of the transmission, attached with 12 to 14 bolts. Loosen all of the bolts at least two full revolutions and then, if necessary, pry the pan loose from the transmission housing using a flat-bladed screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the pan or the housing with the screwdriver. Some fluid may seep from the upper edges of the loosened pan at this point. Continue loosening the pan bolts one at a time, working around the pan from corner to corner. The pan will slowly drop, allowing the fluid to pour into the catch pan. Continue loosening the pan bolts until the fluid stops pouring from the transmission. At that point, remove the pan and allow any fluid left in the transmission to drain into the catch pan.

      When the fluid is drained, I reinstall the pan on the transmission to prevent contamination of the inner workings of the transmission. Then I dispose of these fluids properly. Most cities have an automotive fluid disposal depot that will take the old fluids off your hands for a nominal fee. Check with your local sanitation department for details on how automotive fluids should be disposed of in your area.

      Check the Underbody

      The next step is to take a droplight and go under the vehicle to look for problems. First I check the brake system for leaks. Brake fluid on the back of a brake drum, tire, or wheel indicates a leak at the brake cylinder. Note any leaks you find on the master checklist.

      Next, I look at the shock absorbers. Generally, these are removed and replaced with new ones. If you have leaking shocks, check with the manufacturer about warranty. Many shock absorber manufacturers offer lifetime replacement warranties covering shocks that spring a leak. If your shocks aren’t leaking, toss them in a box for later comparison with the new ones.