Blue is the New black. Susie Breuer

      In some cases business models in the industry follow the same timelines on, structure and procedure, but in other cases they are vastly different. Let’s have a look at the two main business models, wholesale lines and retail lines to see how they differ.

      WHOLESALE LINES

       A wholesale line is bought by department stores or small independent shops throughout the year who sell it to the general public. This line can have between two and six collections a year (Pre Fall, Fall, Holiday, Pre Spring, Spring and Summer). Generally, with wholesale, the brand will design and make the collection at scheduled times of the year and then they will sell it to a department store, who will stock it in their stores with other wholesale brands.

      RETAIL LINES

       A retail line is for retail outlets only. This could, for example, be a high street chain, or maybe a brand that has its own stores. A retail line also launches between two and six and collections a year, but the chain stores or brands add new styles and stock into the stores every month. With retail, the development process can be shorter and more reactive to the shop customer. If a style is selling well in stores, the retail brand can decide to expand the style with more colours and fabrics.

      In this book I explain the stages from the start of development to the end of production of one season. All these stages are relevant to both the retail and wholesale business models mentioned above, but in the discussion of timings in the text it is closer to the wholesale model than to the retail, where the timing of the various stages can vary enormously.

      At the back of the book you can find a key dates calendar that gives you a simplified overview of when things happen and who does them. You can use it as a reference when reading this book, but also in your job in fashion.

      Let me first explain in detail what will be discussed in this book.

      FROM CONCEPT TO PRODUCTION

      The starting point for any fashion collection has to be the concept. It is the foundation upon which a collection is created and it is an important reference point for the stages of development and production. A design team or concept designer can spend anything from 2 to 6 weeks creating the concept, looking for fabrics, selecting colours, finding photographic images that reflect a mood, and collecting ideas for the shape of garments. Chapter 2 is about this stage of concept creation and looks at how it can be constructed and what way it develops into a fashion collection. I will also briefly discuss what happens with the concept during the subsequent design stage.

      At the same time as the concept is created, the merchandiser and developer construct the range plan. The range plan is a document listing all garments the collection will need to include in order to make a profit for the brand. If the concept is the backbone to the design, then the range plan is the backbone to merchandising and, like the concept, it is referred to regularly throughout the season. Chapter 3 describes the creation of a range plan and how it can be adjusted when changes to the collection occur during the development stage.

      Once the range plan has been created, the designers, armed with their concept and range plan, start to design the collection, making sketches available for the developer. Working closely together now, the designer and developer also begin selecting fabrics and colours that work commercially for the garments. Chapter 4 deals both with fabric and colour selections and discusses how developers and designers at this stage often have to compromise to meet each other’s goals. Fabrics and their characteristics are discussed in detail.

      The information flow from the start of the development process to the end of production is a crucial element for the successful internal workings of the brand, and this is the subject of chapter 5. At the start of the design process the developer starts making the development matrix. This is the working document that is used to manage the development process from start to finish. It catalogues all the information relevant to the garments, such as the unique reference code, colour, fabric and style name. It is created and managed by one person and is updated daily, sometimes more often, to ensure that the development information is as complete and current as possible. Around 10 weeks into the process, the developer can start putting technical packs together. The technical packs are detailed documents that tell the factory exactly what the garments should look like. They contain a sketch, info about fabric and colour, a measurement chart, and details of the buttons, labels and threads for each of the garments designed.

      The technical packs are handed over to the factories so they can make prototypes of the garments. The chapter on development and production information flow will discuss both information tools, but also production planning, and will explain when and how the development matrix eventually turns into the line list.

      When the creation of the garments is in progress, the designer and the developer can start to have a look at the branding of the collection. Branding is a collective term for buttons, labels, hangtags, print artworks and embroidery designs, in fact anything that will carry the name of the brand inside or outside the garment. As with a garment, these take time to develop, so it is important to add them into the development process early. In chapter 6 I will discuss what constitutes branding, and how it is developed alongside (or just after) the garments.

      When making a collection it is essential to have a reputable group of factories to make the garments. Some factories specialize in one or two types of products, while others can manage all types. In chapter 7 we will look at factories in all their forms. What factory types should you use? What relationships are there? How should you select the factories you want to work with? And most important of all, how do you get them to make the garment you want?

      Based on their initial interpretation of the technical packs, the factories will supply you with prototypes of the garments. It is the developer’s job to have the whole team review these prototypes and give feedback to the factories. According to the outcome of the review, the factory can either make a second prototype or go on to develop more detailed ‘salesman’ or production samples. These samples also need reviewing and the developer will once more pass on the result to the factory. The ins and outs of the reviewing stages are the subject of chapter 8. I will not only look at the implications of the different reviews, but will also offer advice on how to review effectively.

      From the development, design and merchandising side, the launch of the collection is the goal towards which they have all been working. From this point on the sales teams of the brand start selling the range to different outlets and the success of the collection will become clear. The launch and the subsequent selling period are the subject of chapter 9. I will explain selling tools, like the line book and look book, and will also look at what happens with the feedback the sales teams get from their customers.

      Finally, in chapter 10, I will take a brief look at themes you come across more and more: corporate social responsibility and sustainability.