Best Tent Camping: Southern Appalachian and Smoky Mountains. Johnny Molloy
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Emory Gap Falls is a beauty spot in Frozen Head State Park.
Frozen Head is a lesser-known jewel of a state park tucked away in the Cumberland Mountains, a mountain range west of the Smokies. Steep forested peaks and deep valleys diffused with rock formations characterize this state park that was settled in the early 1800s by simple farmers. But the land, so rich in coal and timber resources, was sold to the state for the establishment of the now-infamous Brushy Mountain State Prison, and the resources were extracted using prison labor. The logging era ended in the 1920s, and Frozen Head was declared a forest reserve. The Civilian Conservation Corps came in and established many of the trails that are in use today. A plaque at the main trailhead memorializes those who lost their lives developing the area. This is an ideal park for active people who like a small campground but want plenty of activities all within walking distance of the campground.
Frozen Head’s campground is known as Big Cove Camping Area. A figure-eight loop contains 19 sites that border Big Cove Branch and Flat Fork Creek. Big Cove backs up to Bird Mountain and has a minor slope. The sites have been leveled and are set amid large boulders that came to rest untold eons ago after falling from Bird Mountain. The gray boulders strewn about give it a distinctive Cumberland Mountains feel. Second-growth hardwoods provide ample shade, and the dogwood and hemlock understory allow some privacy for campers. The bathhouse is close to all, being in the middle of the campground. Single-sex hot showers and flush toilets are well maintained. Two spigots provide drinking water for the small campground.
Some sites are close together, but all provide enough room to spread out your gear. Two group sites are available and can be reserved. Ten sites allow tent and trailer camping; the other nine are for tents only. An overflow and off-season camping area sits along Flat Fork Creek up from the regular campground. It has only a camping spot and a fire ring. The park gates are closed from sunset to 8 a.m. Late-arriving campers must open and close the gate as they enter. It’s best to get situated for the evening and stay within the park’s confines. If you plan wisely, you won’t even have to get back in your car until you leave for good; there’s plenty to do. But if you forgot something, you can purchase supplies back in Wartburg, west on TN 62.
The trails of Frozen Head will take you to some fascinating places. The 3,324-foot Frozen Head observation tower is the apex of the trail system. You can see the surrounding highlands of the Cumberland Plateau and the Great Smoky Mountains in the distance. Other features include the Chimney Rock, a natural observation point that looks west as far as the eye can see. Or take the Panther Branch Trail 0.6 mile up to DeBord Falls. A mile farther is Emory Gap Falls. The Tower and Bird Mountain Trails leave directly from the campground. Two miles farther on the Bird Mountain Trail is one of Frozen Head’s defining rock formations, Castle Rock. This rock formation is more than 100 feet high and 300 feet wide; with a little imagination, you can see the center edifice of the castle with turrets on both ends. These rock formations are the remnants of the erosion-resistant sandstone that covers the Cumberland Plateau. The softer rock and soil below this caprock eroded, leaving rock formations that seemingly jut straight out of the land. Bicyclers can stay on the Lookout Tower Trail and pedal all the way to the fire tower. Hikers can take this trail or one of many others for tower views.
If you don’t feel like hiking or relaxing, there are many other activities. Play volleyball on one of the sand courts. Throw horseshoes in one of the three pits. Shoot some basketball at the outdoor court. Check out the free equipment you need at the park office. During the summer, the 240-seat amphitheater hosts many park activities, including interpretive talks, slide shows, movies, and music concerts.
I planned my trip to coincide with spring’s wildflower display. Frozen Head has one of the richest wildflower areas in the Southeast. Even though I could observe purple, yellow, and white symbols of the season directly from my campground, I did tramp many streamside trails and was glad that this piece of the Cumberlands was preserved for all to enjoy.
GETTING THERE
From Knoxville, take I-40 West for about 10 miles to Exit 376 (TN 162 North/Maryville/Oak Ridge). Merge onto TN 162 North, and drive 6.4 miles. Then merge onto TN 62 West, and drive 11.8 miles to Oliver Springs. Turn right to stay on TN 62 West, and drive 13.7 miles. At the sign for Frozen Head State Park, turn right onto Flat Fork Road, and drive about 4 miles to the park entrance. The visitor center will be on your right.
GPS COORDINATES N36° 07.836' W84° 29.880'
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Hiwassee–Ocoee Scenic River State Park Campground
Beauty:
KEY INFORMATION
CONTACT: 423-263-0050, tnstateparks.com
OPEN: Year-round
SITES: 47
EACH SITE HAS: Picnic table, grill, fire pit, lantern post
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: 2 sites
ASSIGNMENT: By reservation and daily walk-up
REGISTRATION: With park staff member on-site
AMENITIES: Drinking water, flush toilets, hot showers
PARKING: At campsites
FEES: $13.75/night
ELEVATION: 728'
RESTRICTIONS:
PETS: On leash only
QUIET HOURS: 10 p.m.–6 a.m.
FIRES: In fire rings only
ALCOHOL: Prohibited
VEHICLES: None
OTHER: 14-day stay limit
It will take the Hiwassee River and the Gee Creek Wilderness to tear you away from this campground.
Paddlers prepare to launch into the Hiwassee River.
Known informally as Gee Creek Campground, the overnighting area of Hiwassee–Ocoee Scenic River State Park lies in a large, wooded flat at the base of Starr Mountain, adjacent to the cold, clear waters of the Hiwassee River. You can camp out in this high-quality destination and enjoy the Hiwassee River and the trails of the Cherokee National Forest, which abuts the state park. A tall pine forest once shaded the campground, but pine beetles decimated them. However, planted hardwoods are growing and providing shade.
The sites are widely spaced along two loops that meander amid the trees. The clean campsites are placed well apart from each other. Even without a lot of ground cover, the sheer number of trees and the distance between sites allow for adequate privacy. You never have to walk too far for water, as spigots are spread out along both loops. The campground is well maintained by state employees. A Tennessee State Park ranger lives opposite the campground.
The campground is open all year, yet it is heavily used only on summer weekends. The bathhouse is located near the center of the campground and is open from mid-March to the end of November. In winter, there are portable toilets, but showers are unavailable; drinking water is provided year-round.
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