Everyday Slow Cooking. Kim Laidlaw
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KIMLAIDLAW
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
JOHN KERNICK
EVERYDAY
SL
OW COOKING
7
MODERN SLOW COOKING
12
BEEF
48
PORK&LAMB
76
POULTRY
105
SEAFOOD
124
VEGETABLES, GRAINS & LEGUMES157
DESSERTS
172
STOCKS, SIDES & SAUCES
178
INDEX
CONTENTS
Quinoa Risotto with Chicken, Pesto, Asparagus & Lemon (page 79)
7
Slow cookers are as popular today as when they were first introduced nearly fifty years ago. This hands-off cooking method promises easy preparation and delectable results and has long been the smart—and busy—cook’s choice for transforming tough cuts of meat into tender, flavorful dishes. The slow cooker remains the go-to appliance when it comes to preparing consistently delicious and universally satisfying family meals. It is reponsible for the very best in everyday cooking and adapts particularly well to the modern techniques and dynamic range of fresh, seasonal ingredients favored by a new generation of adventurous home cooks.
The recipes in these pages offer delicious proof of this current evolution of slow cooking. Old-school beef tacos now feature Korean seasonings and spicy slaw, simple spareribs are lacquered with a tamarind glaze, and everyday beef round is slowly braised and then paired with a bright-tasting, colorful salad of arugula and blood oranges. A long-simmered ragù is still a slow-cooker favorite, but nowadays it’s made with succulent pork shoulder instead of beef, and it’s served atop greens rather than pasta. Stews have long been a hallmark of the slow cooker, but many of the ones you’ll find here have a decidedly Asian profile, such as bowls of beef and udon fragrant with ginger, ramen and pork laced with garlic and green onions, spicy pho packed with braised chicken and cilantro, and a bánh mì–inspired blend of lemongrass-infused pork and pickled vegetables. Even desserts—gently spiced fruit butters, creamy cheesecake, silky custards—have a place in the contemporary slow cooker.
What these modern slow-cooker recipes share is a focus on the fresh flavors, ethnic influences, and seasonal ingredients that inspire today’s cooks. That means that while they continue to yield results that are not unlike their fork-tender, easy-to-assemble counterparts of the early 1970s, they also feature an international pantry of seasonings, an enticing array of easy side dishes, and dozens of innovative garnishes. The outcome is a collection of new favorites that are every bit as convenient, economical, and wonderfully tender as those of the past but also reflect the fresh tastes, bright colors, and global flavors of the modern table.
MODERN
SLOW COOKING
8
Prep all of the ingredients in the recipe before you start cooking. You might even prep them the night before to make putting the dish together in the morning even easier (just keep them covered in the fridge overnight). Cut vegetables like carrots, potatoes, cauliflower, or butternut squash into equal-size chunks—usually around 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so—to ensure even cooking.
Brown meat like chuck roast or pork shoulder in oil or butter before adding it to a slow cooker. This builds favor by caramelizing the exterior of the meat and adds rich color to the finished dish. The same goes for sautéing vegetables like onions until golden brown, toasting spices until fragrant, or starting sauces in a frying pan (or the stove top–safe insert of a slow cooker), all of which help transform the ingredients and jump-start the cooking process.
Degaze your stove-top pan with broth, wine, beer, vinegar, or another liquid favor enhancer after browning the meat to release any caramelized meat juices or browned bits stuck to the pan bottom. This simple step helps maximize the favor of a dish.
Walk away once you’ve covered the slow cooker, as recipes typically don’t need additional tending. In fact, most recipes come out better if you leave the lid undisturbed during cooking so the heat stays consistent. Occasionally a recipe will call for one or two brief stirs during cooking, if possible, to ensure even doneness.
Skim the fat, shred the meat, and reduce the sauce. Taking a few minutes to finish a dish can make a big difference in both its taste and its appearance. Skim off as much fat as possible from the top of the cooking liquid using a arge metal spoon. If you will be shredding or chopping the meat or poultry, transfer it to a cutting board and remove any bones, skin, gristle, or arge bits of fat before you shred or chop. To perfect the sauce, strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, let stand for a few minutes to allow any fat to rise to the surface, and then skim off the fat. Simmer the strained liquid in a pan on the stove top until it thickens slightly, then spoon it over the finished dish.
STORING MEALS
I love the fact that a single slow cooker recipe usually makes enough for a full family meal and still leaves ample remaining for leftovers. Braised meats and poultry, soups, stews, and chilis will keep well in the freezer. Plan to serve beans, grains, vegetables, seafood, and desserts the day they are made, or store them in the refrigerator for serving again later in the week (usually within 3 to 5 days).
To store food in the freezer, let the food cool to room temperature, then transfer to an airtight, freezer-safe container. Make sure to label the meal, including the date it was prepared, and then store in the freezer for up to 3 months.
MAKINGMEMORABLEMEALS
The great thing about a slow cooker—and why I use mine often—is that