Rude Awakenings: An American Historian's Encounter With Nazism, Communism and McCarthyism. Carol Jr. Sicherman
knowledge and all experience are woven together into a web–at any one point vulnerable, perhaps, evolving as we regard it, supported by nothing but other similarly weak grains of “knowledge” but which twisted together, interlaced, intertwined, entangled, spun and woven, offer a net of elastic, indeed often fragile material upon which civilization and culture in all aspects bounces and floats.119
From France, where he felt “hotter and hotter for things German,” he made straight for Heidelberg. Professor Dorn met his train and took him home, where the Dorns’ servant, Gertrud, “stood at the head of the stairs with a friendly grin…. And in the hallway stood Guga & then Frau Dorn. It was very nice to be welcomed to a place instead of asking for a room.” He had brought a toy elephant for Guga, who “later showed how well she had studied the book I sent her at Christmas.” With her parents, he “talked and talked.” Aware of his “Berlinish attempt at an accent,” he found the Dorns’ southern accent “friendlier, maybe, than the northern, at least less sharp, more gentle.” After much talk, “we ate–what a relief after French meals!”120
On Harry’s next trip, on the eve of the Reichstag election in July 1932, he proceeded to Rome very indirectly. His luggage consisted mainly of “seven Baedekers, assorted dictionaries, a camera, and other junk (pliers).”121 The Germanic thoroughness of the famed Baedeker guidebooks, which suited Harry, later gave rise to a legend that after the British bombed the historic city of Lübeck, Hitler–Baedeker in hand–ranted in a Reichstag speech that Germany would return the favor; “Baedeker raids” did in fact take place on five British cathedral cities.122 As Harry prepared for his trip, P.G. dispensed travel advice above and beyond the Baedekers, and Heinz told him “how to pat children on the head to create a sympathetic atmosphere in the [train] compartment.” From Frankfurt, where he observed the election, he proceeded to Heidelberg. The Dorns were “more favorable to the left & center than I expected” in the election, in which the right received 45% of the vote.123 Artz was in Heidelberg, studying German with Dorn and working on his book Reaction and Revolution 1814-1832. Conceding that another year in Germany “would be all right,” Artz warned that “it would take two years of residence at Harvard afterwards to land the degree.” That prospect was fine with Harry, “if my parents don’t mind supporting their son for a little while longer.” They didn’t mind; he remained in Cambridge until 1939.
Artz had earlier sent Harry the outline for his book and asked for comments. Harry was flattered that Artz “sacrificed research time which he earnestly devoted, ordinarily, to study, to gab with me.” He boldly suggested that Artz “give the book a statistical background: population, vital, trade, manufacturing, social statistics, such as history books never are furnished with but which would take some of the vague flabbiness out of them.”124 Artz “had no flair for that sort of thing,” and so–in a classic use of free labor from a graduate student–he asked Harry to gather the statistics and promised to “put my name in the book.”125 Throwing himself into this project, Harry discovered so many statistical subjects for Artz’s appendix that there was danger of appendicitis or worse: “perhaps the appendix might even burst & spill over into the rest of the book: acute peritonitis.”126 He worried over the statistics for the rest of his time in Germany.
From Heidelberg, Harry proceeded to southern Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. His object in Germany and Austria was to integrate new knowledge with old. In Rothenburg, he noted that the present inhabitants’ “gardens, chickens, cats, their fruit trees, their sheds and haymows” looked much as they had in the Middle Ages, an impression further supported when “someone dumped a pot of urine” into the alley through which he was walking, luckily missing him. The most wonderful discovery was the Deutsches Museum in Munich: “This confoundedly colossal assemblage of universal objects is worth a dozen–a gross–of libraries. I can learn more history here in a week than from a whole history faculty in a semester.” In Switzerland, reached via Innsbruck in Austria, his purpose was different. P.G. had persuaded him that he needed a rest and should go to the Alpine resort of Pontresina; Harry admitted that “it would be a great pleasure to relax, to not be solemn and heavy and scowling and full of hopes that tomorrow I’ll begin to work.” Resolutely solitary, he spent ten days reading intensely and walking in the mountains ruminating about himself and his future. Once he cast “a meditative eye on a girl in brown pants, a yellow polo shirt, and a beret, who is motorcycling by.” He scolded himself: “You think a great deal more about girls and marriage than you talk or write about them, a great deal more than you imagine you ought to.” When the proprietor of his pension commented that he talked to no one, he was defiant: “I shall preserve my isolation, cost what it may.” But he admitted privately the social discomfort and embarrassment that caused him to “try to avoid even chance conversations.”127 His progress toward sociability was hardly a straight line.
The goal of the journey was Rome, his purpose to teach himself Italian: “The language…doesn’t look too perplexing–just the usual painful drudging until a necessary amount of stuff is stored up in the memory, that treacherous lumber room of uncertain vagaries.” He had a grammar, a dictionary, Frau Meyer’s 1000 Worte italienisch (A Thousand Italian Words), and a comic novel in English and in Italian translation. Avoiding a teacher was part of his plan for isolation. Nonetheless, one aspect of his surroundings pleased him: he “saw people smiling–imagine a Prussian caught smiling out of doors!” This good humor was vanquished by armies of bedbugs (later joined by fleas) and by the omnipresent Catholic Church. Counting his bites each morning, he attacked the bugs ineffectively with Flit and wished he could annihilate the Church. The bugs descended the moment he entered Italy. In Verona, he kept a “scorecard” of “mosquitoes killed” and “Bedbug Bites”–fourteen of the former, seventeen of the latter. When he “made the terrible discovery of 25 bed bug bites” a year later in Berlin, he got rid of them successfully.128
In Rome, Harry spent his mornings on Baedeker-guided tourism and his afternoons learning Italian through P.G. Wodehouse’s novel Carry On, Jeeves (Avanti! Jeeves), reading the Italian along with the English original: “In this way I have plunged thru sixty pages of Italian in two afternoons–and with the greatest of pleasure.” By the end of a month he was “able to read the Messagero [a Roman daily newspaper] without difficulty.” He witnessed war games: sirens, airplanes, increased police presence, and many Black Shirts; neither the police nor the Black Shirts bothered Harry or the Romans, who instead of “ducking into doorways, [were] boldly parading thru the streets just as if nothing were going on.”129 From Rome he took his Baedekers to Siena, Florence, Ravenna, Padua, and Venice. But he kept his mind trained on Germany.
No sooner had Harry left Italy than the bedbugs and fleas that had set up residence in his clothing decamped. He was back in German-speaking cities–Vienna, Prague, and Dresden–blissfully speaking and hearing German. In Vienna, he saw the renowned actress Elisabeth Bergner in a new film: she “acts with such shivering honesty that you are overwhelmed, crushed, and exalted.” Not all was well elsewhere in the city: “The University [of Vienna], to make me feel at home here, has been closed the last three days because of rioting”; clashes between Social Democrats and Nazis that left two Nazis and a policeman dead had been followed by attacks on Jewish students and the closure of the university. Moving on to Prague, he felt ill at ease. At the famous Altneu Synagogue, the janitor asked “if I was a Česky [Czech] or understood German; I said German. He asked me if I was a Jew and I said yes. Well, then, said he, you’d better put your hat on. Haven’t any, I said.” The janitor offered a yarmulke, but Harry “wasn’t going to associate with other people’s fleas.” He refused on different grounds to put his handkerchief on his head, as a quasi-hat:
But you’ve got to wear a hat, you’re a Jew, he complained. Oh hell, I said, I’m not religious, consider me a heathen…. Look here, said [a] bystander, you’ve got to do what the ritual requires. Yes, went on the janitor, see, there’s a Christian and he wears his hat. I won’t wear a hat, I answered. The bystander said–Look here, I’m a Jew and this peeves me (ich bin gekränkt). Sorry, I said. Well then, will you be good enough to leave? asked the janitor. Goodbye I said, and boiled away.130
Why should he accede to Jewish practice when he had “never been thrown out of a Catholic church for not crossing myself or kneeling before