A Long and Messy Business. Rowley Leigh
Squid with Polenta . . 320
Chickpea and Spinach Soup . . 338
Fonduta with White Truffles . . 352
Hake with Potatoes and Pimentón . . 355
Beef Consommé with Oysters . . 368
Pudding with Ceps and Radicchio . . 371
Cruda with White Truffles . . 373
Herring and Beetroot Salad . . 376
Introduction
I have been doing this sort of thing for quite a
while now. When I first started, I tried too hard.
I wanted to show off and I wanted to be
authoritative. If I was writing about Jerusalem
artichokes I would explain that Jerusalem was
a corruption of girasole, a sunflower, that the
French hated them because they had to eat them
instead of potatoes during the war, that they are
a rhizome and not a tuber, then make discreet
reference to farting issues and, finally, I would
give a few recipes. I would have run out of space
in no time.
My first editor, Matthew Fort, whom may God
preserve, gave me a piece of advice from his
days in advertising: ‘tell ’em what you are going
to say, say it, and then tell them what you just
said.’ That sort of helped but it was just a Mad
Men way of describing a school essay or
the form of the classical sonata – exposition,
development, recapitulation. I actually had more
help from Lord Sugar. In those early days I
bashed out my copy – one-finger typing, which
I have not improved upon – on an Amstrad,
a primitive early computer manufactured by
Sugar and in very common use at the time.
Once I discovered the copy and paste buttons,
I was liberated. I realised that I didn’t necessarily
need to decide what I was going to say. I could
just start writing and then move it around later.
That breakthrough led, when I was on form, to
a