A Long and Messy Business. Rowley Leigh

A Long and Messy Business - Rowley Leigh


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Squid with Polenta . . 320

       Pheasant with Celery,

       Cream and Pimentón . . 324

       Lamb, Bacon and

       Partridge Stew . . 326

       Chocolate Soufflés . . 330

       Rice Pudding . . 332

       November

       335

       Chickpea and Spinach Soup . . 338

       Onion

       Tart . . 340

       Cabbage Cake with Mozzarella

       and Chestnuts . . 342

       Waldorf Salad . . 345

       Kedgeree . . 348

       Fonduta with White Truffles . . 352

       Hake with Potatoes and Pimentón . . 355

       Venison Chilli . . 357

       Baked Quinces with

       Ricciarelli Biscuits . . 361

       Pumpkin Pie . . 363

       December

       365

       Beef Consommé with Oysters . . 368

       Bread

       Pudding with Ceps and Radicchio . . 371

       Carne

       Cruda with White Truffles . . 373

       Pickled

       Herring and Beetroot Salad . . 376

       Civet de

       Lotte Camarguaise . . 379

       Dover Sole with

       Shrimps and Tomato . . 382

       Braised Short Ribs

       with Paccheri . . 384

       Salt Cod Brandade . . 390

       Roast Goose . . 391

       Apple Sauce . . 394

       Spiced

       Red Cabbage . . 394

       Roast Potatoes . . 395

       Kugelhopf . . 396

       Quince and Sherry

       Trifle . . 400

       Sussex Pond Pudding . . 402

       Index

       407

      Introduction

      I have been doing this sort of thing for quite a

      while now. When I first started, I tried too hard.

      I wanted to show off and I wanted to be

      authoritative. If I was writing about Jerusalem

      artichokes I would explain that Jerusalem was

      a corruption of girasole, a sunflower, that the

      French hated them because they had to eat them

      instead of potatoes during the war, that they are

      a rhizome and not a tuber, then make discreet

      reference to farting issues and, finally, I would

      give a few recipes. I would have run out of space

      in no time.

      My first editor, Matthew Fort, whom may God

      preserve, gave me a piece of advice from his

      days in advertising: ‘tell ’em what you are going

      to say, say it, and then tell them what you just

      said.’ That sort of helped but it was just a Mad

      Men way of describing a school essay or

      the form of the classical sonata – exposition,

      development, recapitulation. I actually had more

      help from Lord Sugar. In those early days I

      bashed out my copy – one-finger typing, which

      I have not improved upon – on an Amstrad,

      a primitive early computer manufactured by

      Sugar and in very common use at the time.

      Once I discovered the copy and paste buttons,

      I was liberated. I realised that I didn’t necessarily

      need to decide what I was going to say. I could

      just start writing and then move it around later.

      That breakthrough led, when I was on form, to

      a


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