Cathedral Window Quilts. Lynne Edwards
hanging opposite. This basic principle can be developed in many exciting ways, allowing you to create some gorgeous effects, as you will see throughout this book.
Before embarking on a larger project it is a good idea to make one Cathedral Window unit to get your hands and head round the technique and the following section describes this process in detail. This finished block can be developed into a simple pincushion project – see page 24.
If you are happy to join the folded squares in the traditional way by hand, oversewing or whip-stitching the blocks together, follow the instructions given here. If you would like to try the totally machined technique, follow steps 1–7 overleaf and then turn to the unit Joining Square Blocks by Machine on page 20 and follow that instead.
‘When making your first Cathedral Window block, start with a simple pincushion, which if not perfect technically, can be swiftly passed on to a less judgemental non-quilter friend.’
Marbled and batik fabrics in beautiful colours were used to create this striking wall hanging, Bright Batiks, which showcases the Cathedral Window technique perfectly in the central area. It also features two variations – Secret Garden and a final border of Twisted Windows. See the instructions on page 53 and also the picture on page 54.
Making a Cathedral Window Unit
1 To make a single Cathedral Window unit as in Fig 1, cut from the chosen background fabric two squares each measuring 8in × 8in (20.3cm × 20.3cm). This size is a good one to learn with and perfect for a pincushion. It was also used by Janet Covell for her wall hanging on page 32.
Fig 1
2 Fold each cut square in half with right sides facing. Pin and stitch an exact 1⁄4in (6mm) seam at either end (Fig 2). I use the machine to do this and stitch both squares at once, stringing them through the machine in a chain, one after the other. Leave about 11⁄2in (3.8cm) of thread between each stitched square. Cut the linking threads after stitching to separate the folded squares (see Tip below).
Fig 2
3 Trim the two folded corners diagonally to within 1⁄8in (3mm) of the stitching to reduce the bulk of the fabric (Fig 3). Finger-press the two stitched seams open.
Fig 3
TIP
Leave about 3⁄4 in (1.9cm) of machine threads hanging at the folded end of each seam. Use the threads to help pull the corner out as you finger-press the seam open.
Cutting the Squares
Each folded square of background fabric starts out as a larger cut square. There is an easy way to calculate this: choose the finished size of the folded square, e.g., 3in × 3in (7.6cm × 7.6cm). Double this measurement and then add 1⁄2in (1.3cm) for the seam allowances – this will be the size of the cut square of fabric needed at the start. For example, a 3in x 3in (7.6cm × 7.6cm) folded square will need 3in + 3in + 1⁄2in (7.6cm + 7.6cm + 1.3cm) = a 61⁄2in (16.5cm) cut square of fabric.
I use this size for most of my projects, especially for those mixing squares and rectangles as the calculations are simpler. Alternatively I like to use a larger square (cut 8in × 8in / 20.3cm × 20.3cm) which is a nonsense mathematically as it finishes up as a 33⁄4in × 33⁄4in (9.5cm × 9.5cm) folded square, but is visually very satisfying and a comfortable size to work with. Refer to the table below for other cutting and finishing sizes.
| Cut size of fabric square | Finished size of block |
|---|---|
| 41⁄2in × 41⁄2in | 2in × 2in |
| (11.4cm × 11.4cm) | (5.1cm × 5.1cm) |
| 61⁄2in × 61⁄2in | 3in × 3in |
| (16.5cm × 16.5cm) | (7.6cm × 7.6cm) |
| 81⁄2in × 81⁄2in | 4in × 4in |
| (21.6cm × 21.6cm) | (10.2cm × 10.2cm) |
| 101⁄2in × 101⁄2in | 5in x 5in |
| (26.7cm × 26.7cm) | (12.7cm × 12.7cm) |
| 121⁄2in × 121⁄2in | 6in x 6in |
| (31.8cm × 31.8cm) | (15.2cm × 15.2cm) |
4 Pull the open edges of the folded square apart and refold with the seamlines matching. Pin, then stitch from each corner to within 1in (2.5cm) of the centre seam, leaving longer threads at the folded ends as before (Fig 4).
Fig 4
5 Trim the two remaining corners and pull the threads as before while finger-pressing the seams open, including the unstitched section across the centre of the square (Fig 5).
Fig 5
6 Turn each folded square right side out through the centre opening. Use a large pin (i.e., one that isn’t too sharp and doesn’t do too much damage) to ease out each corner. Hold the opened seam allowances firmly between thumb and forefinger as you turn so that they stay open. The aim is to finish up with the corners of the square as flat and pointed as possible (Fig 6).
Fig 6
7 Using a steam iron, take one square of fabric and press lightly around the outer folded edges, pulling the corners out as much as possible as you do so. Don’t expect the shape to lie flat at this stage – fabric seldom behaves as you wish it to! If you wish to join blocks by machine, turn to steps 1–12 Joining Square Blocks by Machine page 20.
8 Bring two adjacent corners (A and B in Fig 7) to meet at the centre of the folded square. Ideally they will meet at the centre and make a sharp outer corner. If not, and the outer corner is blunt, don’t worry – this often happens. To correct it, pull corners A and B together over the centre area a little, keeping them level with each other. Pinch the outer