The Rescued Dog Problem Solver. Tracy J. Libby

      Ideally, introductions should be made on neutral territory, such as a short walk together around the block.

      Luckily, dogs are social animals, and when well-socialized as youngsters they tend to grow into adult dogs who enjoy the company of other dogs. Sadly, some dogs develop unwanted behaviors while living with their previous owners. Others become stressed, anxious, or fearful while living on the streets or confined to a shelter situation.

      No one single plan for dog-to-dog introductions exist. General guidelines will help to increase the odds of a smooth and minimally stressful transition. Yet much will depend on the temperament, personality, and size of the dogs; to some extent, each dog’s breed; and whether the new dog you are adding is a puppy, junior, or adult dog. Are any of the dogs anxious, fearful, sight or sound sensitive, dominant, or dog-to-dog aggressive? What are their play styles and energy levels? Equally important, what are the established preferences of your existing dog? Understanding each dog’s breed history, if you know it, will help you determine his or her individual traits. For example, J’mee, while her pedigree is unknown, appears to be part West Highland Terrier—a breed that can be cocky and tough and “Scottish to the core.” If your dog is part Boxer, it’s a good idea to understand that they play by standing on their hind legs and “boxing,” which can be intimidating and off putting to many dogs. Or, if you’ve rescued a high-drive, high-energy herding dog, you’ll need to understand that they like to control movement, which often includes nipping.

      For multiple-dog households, consider introducing your new dog, be it a puppy or adult, to one dog at a time. If you know both dogs are social and friendly with other dogs, the introduction should be easy. Most humane societies and rescue organizations do temper and personality evaluations before releasing dogs for adoption. That said, not all shelter staff are knowledgeable about canine body language, and dogs living in a shelter environment can quickly deteriorate emotionally and therefore may not be accurately evaluated.

      Training Tip:

      Transition Period

      Right away, you knew he was the dog for you! Yet, most likely, your dog doesn’t know what is happening, especially if he was an owner release to an animal shelter.His world has been turned upside down.He may see you as the latest person to shake up his life, including his sense of stability and security (if he ever had any!).A new environment, sights, smells, and sounds can be overwhelming.He may not understand that he gets to stay with you forever, and that you’ve got his back no matter what.Subsequently, stressing or acting out is not uncommon for many dogs.Take your time, provide him with plenty of guidance and direction and love, and allow him to adjust at his own pace.

      Meeting Outdoors

      Ideally, introductions should be made outside in a quiet, open area and, if possible, on neutral territory, such as during a short walk together around the block or a friend’s yard. This gives the dogs plenty of room to negotiate, and they are not forced to interact in a small space. This is doubly important if you are uncertain how the dogs will react. A nearby park may work but be careful of too much stimulation, such as other dogs or loud, rambunctious kids. Consider enlisting the help of a friend, family member, or experienced dog trainer who can handle one of the dogs.

      Depending on each dog’s temperament, personality, and individual characteristics, a fenced yard, field, or tennis court, works well—provided it is a safe environment. For example, two socially friendly dogs, with little or no emotional baggage or aggressive tendencies, may quickly accept each other on their own terms if allowed to interact unencumbered in a fenced-in area without owner interference. No pressure on either of the dogs. While some experts caution against this type of introduction, many an owner has inadvertently created a good deal of canine anxiety by attempting to force interactions between the dogs or jerking or tightening the tension on the leash, which can escalate to canine threats or aggression.

      If going off leash is not possible, consider letting the dogs drag their leashes on the ground. If that isn’t possible, use a 6-foot (100 cm) leash or long line but be sure to keep the leash or long line loose at all times.

      While there are numerous advantages to introducing dogs on neutral territory, sometimes it isn’t possible. In these instances, your yard is better than inside the house. Urinating and marking are normal ways dogs meet, greet, and find out anything and everything about each other, and outdoor meetings allow them this opportunity. Inside your home can create additional stress because of the inability to “mark”—or they may mark your couch, which does not get things off to a good start! Plus, indoors may not provide the open space dogs need to adequately check each other out. Some dogs are more territorial than others, and being indoors, which forces dogs to investigate each other at close range, may create additional problems.

      With any dog-to-dog interactions, you must be observant. Brush up on your canine body language skills so you can recognize when either dog is worried, anxious, fearful, or simply being a bully. Also, keep things moving. It’s probably one of the most important things you can do to help dogs become comfortable with each other. For example, if one or all of the dogs get up on their hackles, stare at each other, or the like—tell them in a happy, calm voice, “Hey, guys, let’s go this way”—or