Cabinets & Storage Solutions. Bill Hylton
Figure 2: Lay out the dowel locations on the cabinet sides, and then position your jig. Slipping a stop collar onto the drill bit will limit the depth of the holes.
Accurate Holes without a Drill Press
Don’t have a drill press? The Dowl-it jig can be an inexpensive substitute (www.dowl-it.com, 800-451-6872). Spread the plates of the jig far apart to create a wide, stable base, and chuck a bit in your drill. Slip the bit into the appropriate hole in the jig, and position the setup precisely over your drilling location. Now you can bore an accurate, straight hole that’s perfectly square to the surface of the panel.
Transferring the hole locations from the sides to the top and bottom is extremely easy with the help of steel dowel centers (see Figure 3 on page 4). To help position the sides, clamp a fence 1½" from each end of the top and bottom, slide the sides next to the outside edge of each fence, and press down on the sides to form imprints with the dowel centers. Now, use your drill press and the ⅜" bit to bore the holes. If you don’t have a drill press, try the Dowl-it jig technique described in Accurate Holes without a Drill Press at left. After completing this step, chamfer the rim of each hole with a countersink bit.
Before assembling the box, there are four small steps to complete. First, drill the ¼" holes in each side for the shelf supports (pieces 4), as shown in the carcass elevation drawing on page 6. Second, lay out the mortises for the hinges (pieces 5), and use a chisel to clean out the waste (see Chopping Hinge Mortises by Hand on page 5). Third, drill the hole in the bottom for the bullet catch (piece 6). And fourth, rout the ends and front edge of the top and bottom with a ½" roundover bit.
Material List
| T x W x L | ||
| 1 | Sides (2) | ¾" x 5¼" x 24" |
| 2 | Top and Bottom (2) | ¾" x 6¾" x 18" |
| 3 | Dowels (32) | ⅜" x 1½" |
| 4 | Shelf Supports (8) | ¼" Pegs (Brass) |
| 5 | Hinges (2) | 1½" x 1½" (Brass) |
| 6 | Bullet Catch (1) | ¼" Dia. (Brass) |
| 7 | Back Rails (2) | ¾" x 2" x 11" |
| 8 | Back Stiles (2) | ¾" x 2" x 24" |
| 9 | Door Rails (2) | ¾" x 2" x 12½" |
| 10 | Door Stiles (2) | ¾" x 2" x 23⅞" |
| 11 | Glass (1) | ⅛" x 13⅛" x 20½" |
| 12 | Battens (4) | 7/16" x 2½" x 20½" |
| 13 | Batten (1) | 7/16" x 2¾" x 20½" |
| 14 | Screws (6) | #8-1½" (Brass) |
| 15 | Mullions (4) | 7/16" x ¾" x 22" |
| 16 | Shelves (2) | ½" x 4¼" x 14⅞" |
| 17 | Retaining Strips (4) | ¼" x 5/16" x 22" |
| 18 | Brads (16) | #17 Wire Gauge |
| 19 | Flush-Mount Hinges (2) | 1½" x 1⅞" (Steel) |
| 20 | Bumpers (2) | ½" Dia. x ⅛" Thick |
| 21 | Knob (1) | ¾" x 1¼" Oval (Brass) |
Now, join the top and bottom to the sides with glue and dowels. It’s a good idea with dowel joints to tap the dowels into place and then close the joints slowly with clamps. Clamping too quickly, or hitting the dowels sharply with a hammer, could cause the wood to split or the dowel pins to crush as pressure builds up in the holes. Check the box for squareness several times before letting the glue dry overnight.
Making the Back and Doors
While the carcass sits in the clamps, rip some ¾"-thick maple for the back and door frames (pieces 7 through 10). Cut the stock to length, once again stacking the pieces so you end up with identically sized parts. Next, lay out and drill the dowel holes, as shown in the back and door elevation drawings on pages 6–7. Dry fit the frames to check the fit of the joints, and with your router and a rabbeting bit, rout 5/16" x 5/16" rabbets on the back of the door frame for holding the glass (piece 11). Square the corners of the rabbets with a chisel, and then take the frames apart.
Next, chuck a ¼" straight bit in your router table, and prepare to rout grooves in the back frame pieces for holding the battens (pieces 12 and 13). Draw starting and stopping locations on the router fence for routing