Dive Atlas of the World. Jack Jackson
at night, common octopus (Octopus vulgaris) are a common find along all the rocky shorelines. Their lairs are easy to find by the shells (remains of their dinners) scattered around the entrance.
The islands are known for the huge numbers of fish at all depths, with anchovies and sprats feeding on the surface, Bogue and chromis in the mid-water column hunted by sea bass, jacks, Dentex and, at the top of this small food chain, large grouper and barracuda. The Medas group has average depths of 10–25m (33–80ft) with many vertical and underhanging walls covered in brilliant yellow cup corals, colourful sea fans, Golden Zoanthids, anthias (Anthias anthias) and nudibranchs by the score. However, most divers come back year after year for the cave systems, many of which cut all the way through the islands with small chambers and air vents.
1 DOLPHIN SOUTH CAVE
The largest cave system under Meda Petita, known as Cova del Dofi Sud (Dolphin South Cave) is very complex and there is a small, stylized statue of a dolphin at the main entrance. From there a series of shafts and tunnels traverse the island. Spiny lobster, precious Red Coral, golden cup corals, colourful sponges and sea squirts adorn the walls everywhere. A delightful surprise is the number of friendly groupers, weighing 45kg (100lb) and more, which come directly up to you.
2 TASCÓ PETIT
One of the smaller rocky islets is Tascó Petit, located to the west of Carall Bernat in the southern group. Here huge limestone boulders have created narrow canyons covered in brilliant purple and yellow Gorgonian Sea Fans. Scores of bream and wrasse in at least half a dozen varieties vie for feeding space around the ledges and the macro aspects of the marine life here are perfect for underwater photographers.
Armed with a mouth full of razor sharp teeth, the lizardfish (Synodus saurus) await their prey either partly hidden in the sand or perched on algae-covered boulders.
3 THE MARMOLER
To the north of the Medas Islands, lying in 42m (138ft), is the wreck of the Avvenire. Known locally as the Marmoler (due to the cargo of marble it was carrying), she sank in 1971 after hitting the coastline. Tide and current carried her to her present position, sitting upright on a sandy plain. Visibility is generally poor and the thermoclines inhibit most divers, with the temperature dropping by as much as 7°C (45°F). The wreck is quite intact and an oasis for fish life, but can be dangerous due to all the netting that drapes the decks.
COSTA BRAVA
4 EL MILÀ AND 5 LAS VETES
Further along this northern stretch of coastline are two superb cave and cavern systems. These are El Milà and the massive Las Vetes. Again, these caves are quite complex and should only be dived with an experienced local guide. Las Vetes is particularly convoluted, with many side passages and narrow dead ends. El Milà is easier with its two long caverns. Ancient stalagmites can be seen underwater and still-forming stalactites are evident in the numerous air chambers. During the summer months the air in one chamber is filled with the sight and smell of thousands of bats. The walls play host to a huge variety of sponges and other colourful invertebrates including the now-rare precious Red Coral.
6 ULLASTRES
To the south of Estartit, and about 45 minutes travel time by dive boat, is a series of offshore seamounts called Ullastres, which rise from 65m (213ft) to around 5m (16ft). The water is always much clearer to the south, well away from any river estuaries. These seamounts are covered in colourful Gorgonian Sea Fans and surrounded by schools of various types of fish, each in their allocated feeding zones. It is amazing to watch the interaction of fish species and the ever-present predators such as Almaco Jacks, Dentex and barracuda.
While the Mediterranean is inevitably exposed to the problems of an enclosed sea, the far-sightedness of the Catalan Government in protecting their islands and coastline has paid off handsomely with a sustainable ecosystem for good catches of fish and, of course, the pleasure of visiting divers. Estartit and the Medas Islands should be on everyone’s diving list.
The distinctively coloured Spotted Doris (Discodoris atromaculata) can be found feeding on sponges at the entrance to deeper caves and in shaded areas.
Triplefin Blennies (Tripterygion spp.) only grow to 5cm (2 in) long and can be found at shallow reefs.
The Blue Lagoon at Comino is sheltered, with numerous caves. It is often the first point of entry for many people snorkelling in the Maltese Islands.
Dwejra Point on Gozo is a shore diving location. The six dive sites offer spectacular underwater topography and marine life.
MALTESE ARCHIPELAGO
by Lawson Wood
THE MALTESE ARCHIPELAGO LIES IN THE central, southern Mediterranean Sea 96km (60 miles) south of Sicily and 467km (290 miles) from the African coast. The Republic of Malta consists of three main islands, Malta, Gozo and Comino, and they are steeped in history. Their language, a curious mixture of Arabic and Latin known as Malti, derives from the various conquests of the islands by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, French and the Knights of St John.
The islands were the most popular overseas diving destination before the Red Sea opened to mass tourism, and remain favourites of German, Dutch and Italian as well as British divers, with some 40,000 visiting each year.
There is little conservation legislation on the islands, other than those rules imposed by the diving industry partners. However, a new conservation policy is gaining strength, spearheaded by local groups and dive centres. One of the first areas to be protected will be Cirkewwa on Malta, and a number of the new wrecks will also be subjected to fishing restrictions. Malta’s climate has to be the best in Europe. In summer the sun blazes in cloudless blue skies, and because these islands are further south than parts of the North African coast, temperatures are high.
MALTA
Malta is the largest of the three islands at 246 sq km (95 sq miles), and is characterized by steep cliffs in the south, deeply indented northern shores and the sheltered areas around the Grand Harbour of Valletta. Cirkewwa, also known as Marfa Point, is next to the ferry terminal for Gozo and is a magnet for dive training and for more experienced divers who want to dive the wreck of the Rozi.
The islands were awarded the George Cross for their diligence in the face of the enemy during World War II. Valletta Harbour has six divable wreck sites, including HMS Maori and the Carolita barge. Other accessible wrecks are the Tent Peg Wreck 12, mv Odile, HMS Jersey 9, the Blenheim bomber 7 the tanker Um El Faroud 6 and cargo ship Imperial Eagle 13. The purposely sunk 52m (171ft) P29 wreck lies 170m (558ft) offshore, between Cirkewwa and Lantern Points, near to the popular Rozi wreck. P29 was an East German minesweeper before being commissioned by the Maltese Navy as a patrol boat in 1996.
1 THE TUGBOAT ROZI
The Rozi