Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley
skin.Cloaks and overgarments: shawl with or without fringe, of soft material worn over left shoulder.Hair: shaven head and upper lip, short chin-beard.Headdress: cap similar to fez.Footwear: barefoot.Accessories: walking stick or staff; wide belt; sword.Jewelry: gold and bronze bracelets and ornaments; chain with pendant of coin-like seal.Typical Colors: no doubt indigo, madder, and purple.Typical Materials: finely woven cloth of flax or wool.Make-up: apparently none.
C. WOMEN (Early Babylonian, 1900-1600 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: scant garment to ankle; low neckline; unbelted tunic, short tight sleeve; later, ankle length dress with flounce.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed cape, gathered and tied at neck.Hair: low on forehead, separated in bandeaux and held down on the forehead by a ribbon; elaborate coils or braids; thick, short braids pinned up over nape of neck when wearer was away from home; hair drawn back from ears occasionally, falling down in ringlets over shoulder; sometimes long hair braided with gold bands.Headdress: crown with gold rings across forehead and triangular decoration in back composed of 7 long thin points each topped by a gold rosette; close-fitting cap with linen band or veil rolled around it; elaborate conical tiara worn by wealthy woman.Footwear: usually barefoot.Accessories: belt; hairpins.Jewelry: gold rings, necklace of fine workmanship, beads of lapis, agate, onyx, and carnelian; gold and bronze bracelets, earrings and ornaments; brooch.Typical Colors: Refer to B. 7.Typical Materials: Refer to B. 8.Make-up: eye emphasized by use of kohl on lid and at corner; skin made smooth with finely powdered pumice; white lead used on face.
D. MEN AND WOMEN (Phrygian, 1100 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long, flowing or close-fitting tunic with long sleeve worn by woman; 2 tunics worn by man, knee-length undertunic with sleeve, outertunic reaching to hip or to knee; tight or loose pantaloons terminating at ankle.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed mantle fastening at right shoulder with brooch.Hair: short bob, bang over forehead, full beard and mustache, by man; hair low on forehead with long curl on side extending almost to shoulder by woman.Headdress: richly ornamented helmet with 2 or 4 flaps in the back. Phrygian bonnet or cap with band around head, point of cap made of leather or metal.Footwear: half-boot laced across the front, sometimes with flying flaps.Accessories: belt.Jewelry: brooch; bracelets; silver, and gold ornaments.Typical Colors: beautiful rich colors including purple.Typical Materials: fine linen often embroidered in harmonious colors; mantle edged with beautiful designs or an all-over pattern; exquisite needlework; leather or skin of animal used for cap; flap on each side of cap or helmet often made from skin of leg of animal.Make-up: apparently none.
D. MEN (Hebrew, c. 1000 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: loin cloth only in the early part of the period; short-sleeved, ankle-length tunic, girded, fringed around the lower edge, later, 2 tunics; long outertunic with long sleeve, short undertunic; sleeved cafton or kafton with fringe or purple tassels; robe unseamed, left side held in place by cord.Outer lower: breeches of fine linen worn by priest and Levite.Under: long shirt-like tunic.Cloaks and overgarments: rectangular shawl, fringed along lower edge for king or high priest; mantle with purple tassel at each corner; voluminous mantle used for many purposes including covering of body, as a carpet, and carryall.Hair: ointment used to make hair glossy; semilong, sometimes braided in many braids or left in curls or waves; fairly long, neatly trimmed beard.Headdress: headcloth worn by shepherd; miter; cap with pointed top falling backward or forward, sometimes with brim, or drapery in back; turban.Footwear: barefoot; sandal; shoe extending to ankle.Accessories: inscriptions on parchment worn on forehead and wrist by devout man; highly ornamented girdle.Jewelry: usually none, sometimes in prosperous times of the Jewish kingdom, nose rings, necklaces, and gold chains adopted by some men.Typical Colors: many hues, especially purple.Typical Materials: goat’s or camel’s hair first used, later fine wool or very fine cotton; rich cloth woven with gold; stripes popular; first tunic of linen, second of wool; leather girdle, later of metal adorned with precious stones; richer and finer fabrics in the time of King David, 1000 B.C.Make-up: hair powdered with gold dust, worn by pages preceding Solomon on ceremonial occasion.
E. WOMEN (Hebrew, c. 1000 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: simple loose tunic to ankle, sometimes fringe or rich embroidery at neckline, girded at hip; sometimes tight-fitting tunic with girdle worn indoors; short sleeve or sleeveless; gown with long sleeve; later more voluminous costume, outergarment with sleeve to middle of hand.Cloaks and overgarments: large cape-like garment having huge sleeve.Under: undertunic or chemise to knee.1. Mantle 2. Tunic 3. Shawl 4. Cidaris 5. Kandys 6. Kalasiris 7. Tiara 8. Phrygian Bonnet or Cap 9. SandalHair: elaborate braids.Headdress: head always covered; low or high cap covered with gold ornaments; very thin or coarse veil, sometimes covering entire head and face, with eyeholes permitting wearer to see, sometimes forehead and throat wrapped; cap of net, wool, cotton or gold thread, tassels at back, sometimes interspersed with gold beads or precious stones; cap also decorated with pearls.Footwear: barefoot; sandal; shoe.Accessories: sometimes fold of girdle served as purse; mirror of polished metal, including silver and copper; silver, gold, or ivory stick used for applying make-up to eyes.Jewelry: gold, silver and other metals used in ornaments; rings set with rubies and emeralds, worn on all fingers; series of bracelets of gold or ivory sometimes worn from wrist to elbow; anklets; earrings sometimes worn along upper edge of ear; often drop earrings, cluster of grape-shaped ornaments on earring; necklaces of many rows of pearls; nose ring, sometimes a number worn; dangling ornaments of gold in hair; gold or silver pendants.Typical Colors: purple or scarlet mantle, rich colors popular; purple border on outer tunic, gold embroidery; white or cream also used; yellow, purple, or crimson belt; sometimes gilt sandal; dark somber tones used by common people.Typical Materials: linen, wool, and silk (the latter may have been introduced into Bible lands by merchants who brought it from India whence it had come from China); costliness of material distinguishing rank of wearer; thin muslin used first for outer garment, silk used later.Make-up: custom of painting margins of eyelid with kohl adapted from Egyptian woman; eyebrows arched with inner ends meeting each other; hands colored with henna; perfumes and oils used.
F. MEN AND WOMEN (Medes, 835-750 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long-sleeved kandys of man held by girdle; foot-length tunic, gathered at front and side; coat-like garment; long tunic worn by woman.Cloaks and overgarments: purple cape worn by chief priests, the cut varying with rank.Hair: enormous quantities of false hair.Headdress: miter, sometimes highly embroidered; aigrette worn as ornament in hair by woman; hood with 2 strips, 1 falling over shoulder, and 1 down the back.Footwear: shoe slit at instep and fitted with a tongue; richly embroidered, laced boot worn by wealthy; leather boot, by common people.Accessories: girdle; staff with gold knob used by priest.Jewelry: chain; ankle bells worn by woman.Typical Colors: brilliant colors including purple; white worn by priest with blue and white cord around cap; blue and white cord around cap also signified relative of the royal family; often light-colored boot.Typical Materials: leather; coarse fabric; fine cloth of cotton and silk often beautifully embroidered.Make-up: eyelid and eyebrow painted.
G. MEN (Assyrian-Babylonian, 884-606 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: girded tunic, low neckline; sleeved kalasiris for nobleman, long; short tunic for slave.Under: loin cloth.Cloaks and overgarments: richly embroidered shawl, sometimes worn without tunic, rectangular piece drawn under one arm, fastening with clasp on shoulder; sometimes, with opening for head and one arm; large, draped shawl for king; narrow fringed scarf similar to baldrick; extravagant use of fringe and tassels toward end of period; fringe indicative of rank; long fringed scarf crossed over breast, worn by prime minister; double fringed scarf, by master of ceremonies; short fringe, by king’s attendants; scarf not worn by lesser officials.Hair: black curly bushy hair, or wig, to shoulder; bang; fairly long, square-cut, bushy beard; mustache curled at ends.Headdress: fillet; headbands crossing on temple forming a kind of bonnet; flat rings of graduated size with rosettes at center front, side, and back; bandeau with 2 cords descending from a rosette; pointed fez-like tiara of gorgeous fabric trimmed with scarlet; ornamental bands sometimes extending to waist, often trimmed at side with double bullock horns fastened against a lily; dome-shaped turban or miter for king or god; crown; white striped diadem and white claft; Phrygian bonnet or cap; fez worn by nonroyal person.Footwear: barefoot, sandal, and high-laced boot; gold tassels or buckle on sandal.Accessories: high collar; narrow belt over wide close-fitting leather belt; baldrick; girdle usually with tassels; mace or stick, 2 feet long with ornamental knob; fan; fly whisk; ebony comb; umbrella; long apron worn by some members of the priesthood.Jewelry: large, heavy earrings;