What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. John Hanning Speke

The Royal Geographical Society—The strange lake on the map—Set off—Arrive at Zanzibar—A preliminary excursion—A sail along the coast—The Pangani river—A jemadar's trick—Journey to Fuga—Adventures—Return to Zanzibar—Scenes there—Objects of the expedition—Recruiting for followers—The Cafila Bashi—The start—Fevers—Discussions about the Mountains of the Moon and the Victoria N'yanza—The Tanganyika.

Chapter II.

Canoes—The crews—The biography of Bombay—The voyage—Crocodiles—The lake scenery—Kivira island—Black beetles—An adventure with one of them—Kasengé island—African slavery.

Chapter III

Leave Tanganyika—Determine to visit the Ukéréwé lake, alias Victoria N'yanza—Confusion about rivers running in and out—Idea that it is the source of the Nile—Arrangements for the journey—Difficulties—The march—Nature of the country—Formalities at the meeting of caravans—A pagazi strike—A sultana—Incidents—Pillars of granite.

Chapter IV

First sight of the Victoria N'yanza—Its physical geography—Speculations on its being the source of the Nile—Sport on the lake—Sultans Machunda and Mahaya—Missionary accounts of the geography—Arab accounts—Regrets at inability to complete the discovery—The march resumed—History of the Watuta—Hippopotamus-hunting—Adventures—Kahama.

Chapter V

General character of the country traversed—The huts—The geology—Productions—Land of promise—Advice to missionaries—Leave Ulekampuri—Return of the expedition—Register of temperature.

Journal of Adventures in Somali Land.

Chapter I. Introduction to the Journal.

Table of Contents

Projects and Hobbies—life in India—lord Clyde and Sir James

Outram—the Position and Physical Geography of the Somali Country—the

Nogal Country, and Historical Sketches—Costume and Customs.

It was in the year 1849, at the expiration of the Punjaub campaign, under Lord Gough, where I had been actively engaged as a subaltern officer in the (so-called) fighting brigade of General Sir Colin Campbell's division of the army, adding my mite to the four successive victorious actions—Ramnugger, Sadoolapore, Chillianwallah, and Guzerat—that I first conceived the idea of exploring Central Equatorial Africa. My plan was made with a view to strike the Nile at its head, and then to sail down that river to Egypt. It was conceived, however, not for geographical interest, so much as for a view I had in my mind of collecting the fauna of those regions, to complete and fully develop a museum in my father's house, a nucleus of which I had already formed from the rich menageries of India, the Himalaya Mountains, and Tibet. My idea in selecting the new field for my future researches was, that I should find within it various orders and species of animals hitherto unknown. Although Major Cornwallis Harris, Ruppell, and others had by this time well-nigh exhausted, by their assiduous investigations, all discoveries in animal life, both in the northern and southern extremities of Africa, in the lowlands of Kaffraria in the south, and the highlands of Ethiopia in the north, no one as yet had penetrated to the centre in the low latitudes near the equator; and by latitudinal differences I thought I should obtain new descriptions and varieties of animals. Further, I imagined the Mountains of the Moon were a vast range, stretching across Africa from east to west, which in all probability would harbour wild goats and sheep, as the Himalaya range does. There, too, I thought I should find the Nile rising in snow, as does the Ganges in the Himalayas.

The time I proposed to myself for carrying this scheme into operation was my furlough—a lease of three years' leave of absence, which I should become entitled to at the expiration of ten years' service in India; but I would not leave the reader to infer that I intended devoting the whole of my furlough to this one pursuit alone. Two of the three years were to be occupied in collecting animals, and descending by the valley of the Nile to Egypt and England, whilst the third year was to be spent in indulgent recreations at home after my labours should be over.

I had now served five years in the Indian army, and five years were left to serve ere I should become entitled to take my furlough. During this time I had to consider two important questions: How I should be able, out of my very limited pay as a subaltern officer, to meet the heavy expenditure which such a vast undertaking would necessarily involve? and how, before leaving India, I might best employ any local leave I could obtain, in completing my already commenced collections of the fauna of that country and its adjacent hill-ranges?[1]

Previous experience had taught me that, in the prosecution of my chief hobby, I would also solve the problem of the most economical mode of living. In the backwoods and jungles no ceremony or etiquette provokes unnecessary expenditure; whilst the fewer men and material I took with me on my sporting excursions the better sport I always got, and the freer and more independent I was to carry on the chase. I need now only say I acted on this conviction, and I think, I may add, I managed it successfully; for there are now but few animals to be found in either India, Tibet, or the Himalaya Mountains, specimens of which have not fallen victims to my gun. Of this the paternal hall is an existing testimony. Every year after the war I obtained leave of absence, and every year I marched across the Himalayas, and penetrated

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