History of Western Maryland. J. Thomas Scharf
course by the hard layers in the limestones with which it comes in contact on its way towards the south. Abundantly supplied by short branches from both sides, at intervals of every two or three miles it is reinforced by new volumes of water, and after passing through the town of Williamsport it empties into the Potomac River. The Little Conococheague is a small, long creek, which rises in a gap of the North Mountain, receives another branch from the region of Clear Spring, flows south, and also empties into the Potomac. It runs through a picturesque region, in a basin of its own construction, at an average distance of about three miles from the base of the mountain ridge, and receives several small tributaries at its headwaters near the Pennsylvania line.
Williamsport is situated in the vicinity of a rich agricultural region, where the limestone soils spread out widely, where also the fertile bottom-lands of the old bed of the Potomac stretch along the canal; but also next the slate ridge, where the surface soils are thin and of less agricultural value. Timber of large size and superior quality formerly covered the greater part of the ridges and bottoms in this section; but it has been greatly thinned out within a quite recent period, and is now replaced in part only by second-growth trees of less value than their predecessors. An important production of this region is the massive black slate, which abounds at a distance of about five miles below the town. It is compact, strong, of fine texture, breaks into even slabs, and takes a high polish. The choice limestone rocks of this vicinity share the characteristics of some of those found on the eastern side of the valley. They are white, or of some tone of drab or yellow, appear fine-grained, take a good polish, and are accessible in fairly large slabs. The principal rock, however, is the blue limestone, which rests in immense beds of unmeasured depth, and shows evidences of being extensively cavernous. No large " caves have yet been actually discovered there, but the numerous sink-holes which exist in the farms extend to unknown depths, and indicate a connection with an extensive system of underground cavities, at present apparently too dangerous for exploration. One of these larger sink-holes, at the base of South Mountain, near Cavetown, is remarkable for not being connected with any visible outlet beneath, and accordingly for being always nearly full of water. It consists of a circular, funnel-shaped cavity in the limestone, about one hundred feet in diameter, of unknown depth, filled with clear water, which keeps an almost uniform level regardless of the variations in the seasons.
The central parts of the valley are rolling, and the folds of surface rise higher on both sides until the mountain regions are reached. At the southeastern extremity Elk Ridge rises in majesty, and forms the western boundary of the narrow but charming little basin known as Pleasant Valley. It is an old crack between the two mountain uplifts, which has been eroded and scooped out until it slopes down into a depression somewhat lower than the Great Valley, of which it is but a minor outlet. On the east the South Mountain builds its boundary wall of the flinty sandstone, chert, and slate, while on the west Elk Ridge piles its huge walls of white sandstone in a ridge seven miles long, and then bends in a few rods to contract the upper end of this romantic little enclosure. Along these high walls of jointed rock beetling cliffs stand out in threatening attitudes, while the mountain base is buttressed by masses of heavy masonry. In the valley great bodies of dark slates and cherty limestones raise their heads in startling attitudes; the surface is strewn with fragments of rock which once fitted into the cliffs beyond; the stream threads its way with audible murmur among the sharp-cornered slates and sandstones, and the bowlders are overhung by the branches of graceful shrubs and trailing creepers. It is a fruitful corner, set in the peaceful solitude of the mountain embrace. Daily the mist curtain of early morn rests over it; the dark shadows of growing daylight deepen as the mountain walls are brought into sharp relief; and later every rock, spur, and cliff is lighted into glorious splendor by the glowing flashes of the midday sun. Lovely vistas delight the eye, both in the valley and on the mountain-top. Towards the north the frowning brows of the precipitous ridge project in severe contrast to the open expanse of the widening valley, which stretches off in endless variety of reliefs until lost in the dim blue of the distant horizon. While away off southwards the opening gap guides the eye out to the basin of the broad Potomac, then up the winding gorge of the opposite mountains, until the scene glides into the swelling waves of the hills beyond and is lost in the dark borders of the far-reaching forests. On the west the imposing summit is crowned by Maryland Heights; here in the midst of crags and rugged sandstone masses the eye takes in long miles of charming perspective on the channel of the shining river, and over roll after roll of mountain and hill, resting in peaceful sublimity and beauty, until distance levels all into one universal tender gray.
The minerals of the valley are of but few kinds. No copper, gold, or silver need be expected in profitable amounts, but iron ore of the brown haematite variety abounds near the Potomac River, about two miles west of Sandy Hook. It is of the species called pipe ore, or sometimes limestone ore, and yields metal of excellent quality, well adapted to the manufacture of bar-iron.
The animals of the county are essentially those of the Blue Ridge Belt. The elephant, elk, caribou, and beaver were formerly residents of the valleys and uplands, but they have long since disappeared. Among the vegetable productions, the cucumber magnolia and rhododendron are conspicuous, while the golden lilies, asters, sunflowers, and the generally known flowers and flowering shrubs of the eastern slope of the continent are well represented. The usual trees of the same region belong here, while on the higher and more exposed mountain summits the spruces and pines of a more northern climate begin to appear.
Appalachian Region. — This great belt of country extends from the summit of the North Mountain chain to the western extremity of the State. It includes the western end of Washington County and the whole of Allegany and Garrett Counties. It stretches from east to west in a direct line over a distance of eighty-five miles, and its greatest breadth from north to south is on its western boundary, and is about thirty-six miles; while on the east it is about eight miles in Allegany, and narrows to one and a quarter miles in the western part of Washington County. No less than fifteen mountain ranges cross this long strip of country, and those in the western division form the highest lands in Maryland. The lowest levels appear next the basin of the Potomac River at Cumberland, where they grade down to a point scarcely five hundred feet above the sea. The highest altitude attained is on the summit of the Great Savage Mountain at Altamont, which rises to an elevation of more than two thousand seven hundred feet above high tide. West of Sideling Hill until the city of Cumberland is passed the mountain ridges are all broken into spurs or backbones of variable length. They have been generally compressed with great force, and are consequently high, narrow, and abruptly elevated. The surface between them forms elevated valleys of moderate simplicity, broken only by slight swells, and traversed by water-courses which have cut their way through winding ravines in deep channels, often encumbered by broken masses of slate and sandstone. Every valley is supplied with its stream of water, usually rapid and pure, running from the north over a rocky bed, increased by several small tributaries near its source, and emptying into the Potomac River. Some of these have cut their way through gorges in the spurs, in the midst of great rocky ledges, overhung by heavy cliffs, overgrown with bushes, ferns, and trailing vines. Near their sources they tumble in wild confusion over the remnants of shattered rocks, in torrents and cascades, and run through wild spots of indescribable attractiveness.
The beginning of the Appalachian region forms the small western division of Washington County.
After crossing the Hagerstown Valley and proceeding towards the west, up the side of the North Mountain, a point is reached on the summit near Fair View, at an altitude of sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. Here the eye may roam almost unobstructed from the region of sunrise to where the sun sinks below the western horizon. Viewed during the early morn, the mist is seen hovering over valleys and hiding in the water-courses; a few purple and orange clouds streak the sky beyond the mountains, and the green foliage of the nearer forests seems moistened by a bath of dew; but as the sun lifts his golden face above the edge of the higher uplands, the smoky fleece rises from the streaks of water, the mountains unveil, and the foliage glistens as if studded with countless gems. On the west, in the nearer valley, the narrow chasm of Licking Creek lies beneath the eye; across the broad, high valley, raised into swells and low ridges, the town of Hancock now crops out on the rounded hillsides and then settles down into the adjacent ravine; as the view is lifted a stage higher the heavy back of Tonoloway Mountain, flanked by Round Top beside the canal,