A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery. C. Deite

      CHAPTER I.

       Table of Contents

      HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.

      Nature has implanted in man the instinct of finding the odor accompanying decay and putrefaction insufferable, of fleeing from it, and of going in quest of fragrant odors. Hence, in ancient times, perfume substances were highly esteemed, and an offering of them was considered a sign of the most profound reverence and homage. The early nations of the Orient especially used perfume substances in such profusion that the consumption of them by the finest lady of to-day must be called a comparatively moderate one. This may, however, be readily explained, for, on the one hand, the majority of plants which produce the most agreeable perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous to the Orient; and, on the other, the excessive exhalations from the human body, caused by the hot climate, forced the people to search for means to remove, or at least to cover, the disagreeable odor arising therefrom.

      Since fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings, it was believed that they must be welcome also to the gods, and, to honor them, perfume substances were burned upon the altars. Besides, as an offering to the gods, perfume substances were extensively used by many nations, especially by the Egyptians, for embalming the dead, the process employed by the latter having been transmitted to us by the ancient authors Herodotus and Diodorus.

      Furthermore, a desire for ornamentation and to give to the face and body as pleasing an appearance as possible, is common to all mankind. To be sure, the ideas of what constitutes beauty in this respect have varied at different times and among the various nations. But, independent of the savage races, who consider painting and tattooing the body and face an embellishment, and taking into consideration only the earliest civilized nations, it is astonishing how many arts of the toilet have been preserved from the most ancient historical times up to the present. "In the most ancient historical times, people perfumed and painted, frizzed, curled, and dyed the hair as at present, and, in fact, the same cosmetics, only slightly augmented, which were in use hundreds, nay, thousands, of years ago are still employed to-day."[1] It is especially woman, who everywhere exercises the arts of the toilet, while, with the exception of perfumes and agents for the hair, man is but seldom referred to as making use of cosmetics. The young girls of ancient Egypt used red and white paints, colored their pale lips, and anointed their hair with sweet-scented oils; they dyed their eyelashes and eyelids black to impart a brighter lustre to the glance of the eye, and the mother of the wife of the first king of Egypt is said to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye.

      From the Egyptians, the practices of the toilet, like many other things, were transmitted to the Jews. In Egypt, the Hebrew woman had known the sweet-scented flower of the henna bush, and, finding it also in Judea, it served her as a perfume. In the Bible the henna flower is called kopher, in Greek kypros, and the Cyprian salve, mentioned by Pliny, was prepared by boiling henna flowers in oil and then expressing them.

      Painting the face was also practised by the Hebrew women, reference being made to it in II. Kings ix. 30, and Jeremiah v. 30, while painting of the eyes is mentioned in Ezekiel xxiii. 40.

      The number of perfume substances known to the ancient Hebrews was but a limited one, they consisting, besides the above-mentioned henna flower, chiefly of a few gum-resins, especially bdellium, olibanum and myrrh.

      In ancient times olibanum was, without doubt, the most important perfume-substance. It was introduced into commerce by the Phoenicians, and, like many other substances, it received from them its name, which was adopted by other nations. Thus, the Hebrews called the tree lebonah, the Arabs, lubah, while the Greeks named it, λιβανός and the resin derived from it, the celebrated frankincense of the ancients, λιβανωτόςτς, Latin, olibanum. Regarding the mode of gaining the olibanum, some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times. Thus, Herodotus writes: "Arabia is the only country in which olibanum grows, as well as myrrh, cassia, cinnamon and lederum. With the exception of myrrh, the Arabs encounter many difficulties in procuring these products. Olibanum they obtain by burning styrax, for every olibanum tree is guarded by a number of small-sized winged serpents of a variegated appearance, which can be driven away by nothing but styrax vapors." According to Pliny, who gives a very full account of olibanum, Arabia felix received its by-name from the abundance of olibanum and myrrh found there. He states that olibanum grows in no other country besides Arabia, but it is not found in every part of it. About in the centre, upon a high mountain, he continues, is the country of the Atramites, a province of the Sabeans, from which the olibanum region is distant about eight days' journey. It is called Saba and is everywhere rendered inaccessible by mountains, a narrow defile, through which the export is carried on, leading into an adjoining province inhabited by the Mineans. In Saba itself were not more than 300 families, called the saints, who claimed the cultivation of olibanum as a right of heritage. When making the incisions in the trees, and while gathering the olibanum, the men were prohibited from having intercourse with women and from attending funerals. Notwithstanding the fact that the Romans carried on war in Arabia, none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree. When there was less chance of selling the olibanum, it was gathered but once in the year, but since the increase in the demand, it was gathered twice, first in the fall and again in the spring, the incisions in the trees having been made during the winter. The collected olibanum was brought upon camels to Sabota, where one gate was open for its reception; to turn from the road