A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery. C. Deite
under penalty of death. The priests took one-tenth by measure for the god Sabin, sales not being allowed until their claim was satisfied. The olibanum could be exported only through the territory of the Gebanites, whose King also levied tribute.
Pliny further states that the Arabs did not steal one from another, but for fear of loss those employed in the stores of Alexandria were forced to go naked with the exception of a clout which was sealed. A mask and a thick net were thrown over the head.
To us the practice of anointing the entire body, customary among the ancients, appears very singular. Old Egyptian sculptures represent the guests being anointed at the meal. Among the Jews we find a holy oil with which Aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate them to the priesthood, Moses prescribing for this holy anointing oil, myrrh, cinnamon, calamus, and oil from the olive tree. Other persons were prohibited from imitating or using this holy oil. The anointing of kings was introduced later on. Though it was prohibited to imitate and use the holy oil, this prohibition did not refer to anointing with oil in general.
That the Greeks also set a high value upon anointing with oil is plainly seen from Homer. When Telemachus visited Nestor, Polycaste, Nestor's youngest daughter, bathed him and anointed him with oil, and when he was the guest of Menelaus, the maids of the latter performed the same service for him, while for Ulysses returning as a beggar, the aged Euryclea prepared a foot-bath and anointed him.
By the addition of fragrant substances to the oil, the sweet-scented ointment, myron, originated. While the anointing with simple oil evidently served as a hygienic measure after the bath, and especially for men in the gymnasium, and before a combat, with the Greeks, ointments were an article of luxury. In Socrates' time the use of sweet-scented ointments had reached such an extent, that Xenophon caused him to speak against it, but, as is the case with all such lectures against fashion, without the slightest success. In Athens the luxury was carried so far that the bacchanalians anointed each part of their body with a special ointment. The oil extracted from the palm was thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts; the arms were refreshed with balsam-mint; sweet marjoram supplied an oil for the hair and eyebrows; and wild thyme for the knee and neck. Although to us it would be repugnant to have the entire body anointed, in Athens it was considered beautiful to be glossy with ointments. It is said of Demetrius Phalereus, that in order to appear more captivating, he dyed his hair yellow, and anointed the face and the rest of his body.
From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also learned the use of ointments. Pliny cannot say at what time they were introduced in Rome, but states that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the King, Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of Rome, the censors issued an edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments. However, this edict was of no use, and the practice spread more and more, Pliny speaking very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance in ointments, Plutarch says: "Frankincense, cinnamon, spikenard, and Arabian calamus are mixed together with the most careful art and sold for large sums. It is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only the women but also the men, who will not sleep even with their own wives if they do not smell of ointments and powders." Plutarch further mentions an incident which must have created a sensation even in luxurious Rome, as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed himself with costly ointments and scattered some of them over Otho. The next day Otho gave Nero a banquet, and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly saturating the guests.
Directions for preparing ointments are contained in Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's "Medica materia," and Pliny's "Historia naturalis." Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According to Pliny, a distinction was made between the juice and the body, the latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the sweet-scented substances. In preparing the ointments, the oil together with the perfuming substances were heated in the water-bath. For instance, rose ointment was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing 5½ lbs. of bruised Andropogon Schœnanthus with a little water, then adding 20½ lbs. of oil and heating. After heating the oil was filtered off, and the petals of one thousand roses were thrown into the oil, the hands with which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being previously coated with honey. When the whole had stood for one night, the oil was strained off and when all impurities had settled, it was brought into another vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the operation being several times repeated. However, according to the opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more odor was absorbed by the oil after the seventh introduction of rose leaves. To fix the odor, resins or gums were added to the ointments.
A process of distilling volatile oils was also known, the odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool over the heated perfume-substances. The wool was afterwards subjected to pressure. This process, of course, involved great loss and was available only for substances containing much volatile oil.
Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer-fat, or the marrow of animals was freed from all membranes, melted together with a little salt in an entirely new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where it was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being frequently renewed. Then it was boiled with equal parts of sweet-scented wine, and after taking it from the fire it was allowed to stand over night. The next day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until the fat had lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when it was brought in contact with the perfumes.
The consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans must have been enormous. The trade of the ointment makers (ungentarii) was so extensive that the large street Seplasia in old Capua was entirely taken up by it, and the business must have paid well since the prices realized were very high. However, in ancient times the business cannot have been very agreeable, at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage in Plutarch's Life of Pericles: "We take pleasure in ointments and purple, but consider the dyers and ointment makers bondsmen and mechanics."
Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well as of paste, were extensively used by the Roman ladies. Chalk and white lead served for white paint, and minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white paints, a pale color being more becoming to them:—
"Palleat omnis amans; hic est
color aptus amanti."—(Ovid.)
For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs or soot were used.
The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their natural, and also false, hair as the fair ones of to-day. They curled their hair with heated iron instruments, and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from age, sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black, it was dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of hair-dyes were known in Rome, amongst them some which are still employed to-day, such as green nutshells and acetate of lead.
After the Romans had seen the blonde German maidens, blonde and red hair became the fashion. To dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps were chiefly used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to have been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come out. The satirists ridiculed this as well as the wigs, which were worn by men and women to hide baldness, or on account of the color which could not be attained by dyes.
Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the agents employed being called psilothrum and dropax. They were of vegetable origin, but it is not exactly known from which plants they were derived.
For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a dentifrice which does not seem very inviting to us. It consisted of a urine imported from Spain (dens hiberna defricatus urina). To perfume the breath or to hide its bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses, etc., were used, or myrrh, mastic from Chios or perfumed pastilles were chewed.
We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages. In the wars during the migrations of the nations, but little thought was very likely given to them, but as soon as the nations became again settled and made sufficient progress in culture, the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of life no doubt returned. Our knowledge in this respect is limited to what is contained in the works of physicians of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts for cosmetics