Chats on Costume. G. Woolliscroft Rhead
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G. Woolliscroft Rhead
Chats on Costume
Published by Good Press, 2019
EAN 4064066234164
Table of Contents
VI THE RISE AND FALL OF THE CRINOLINE
IX THE DRESSING OF THE HAIR, MOUSTACHIOS, AND BEARD
X BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET
PREFACE
Needless to say the present work is far from exhausting the subject of costume, which extends, indeed, over the whole field of history. For reasons of space, neither ecclesiastical nor military costume is touched upon. The book makes no pretensions to being anything more than what its title suggests—a series of chats upon a subject which fills a considerable place in the minds of, at any rate, the larger half of the community.
While many works germane to the subject of costume have, of necessity, been here largely drawn upon in the way of quotation, there will, at the same time, be found a certain proportion of what may be described as fresh material, the result of the author's acquaintance with the subject in his individual practice as an artist. Indeed, the subject of dress is, or should be, an artistic matter; it was so in the past, and it will again, in the very near future, come to be recognised as one of the Decorative Arts, requiring artistic knowledge, and some perception of the fundamental laws of Design.
The author's thanks are particularly due to Mr. J. S. Sargent, R.A., for his kind permission to reproduce his portrait of Miss Ellen Terry.
WILLIAM, DUKE OF JULIERS AND CLEVES.
By Aldegrever.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Anglo-Saxon Chronicle.
Barclay: Ship of Fools of the World, 1508.
Bell's Fashionable Magazine, 1812.
Bulwer: Pedigree of the English Gallant.
Carlyle, T.: Sartor Resartus; French Revolution.
Caxton: The Four Sons of Aymon.
Chaucer.
English Costume from Pocket-books, 1799.
Eginhart: Life of Charlemagne, 1619.
Fairholt: Costume in England, 1896.
Froissart's Chronicles, H. N. Humphreys, 1855.
Gregory of Tours: History of the Franks.
Gosson, Stephen: Schoole of Abuse, 1579.
Harding's Chronicle, 1543.
Holme, Randal: Notes on Dress, c. 1660.
Hope, T.: Costume of the Ancients.
Jonson, Ben: Plays.
John de Meun }
William de Lorris} Romance of the Rose.
Knight of La Tour Landry, 1371, Caxton.
Lydgate, Monk of Bury: Poems.
Le Blanc, H., Esq.: The Art of Tying the Cravat, 1828.
Paris, Matthew.
Piers Plowman: Pierce Ploughman's Vision.
Planché: British Costume, 1874; Cyclopædia of Costume, 1877.
Racinet: Costume.
Roxburghe Ballads, c. 1686.
Statutes: Henry III., Henry VIII.
Stothard, C.: Monumental Effigies, 1877.
Strutt: Dress and Habits of the English People, 1842.
Stubbes: Anatomy of Abuses.
Stow, John: Chronicle, 1615.
Stewart, J.: Plocacosmos, or the Whole Art of Hairdressing, 1782.
Viollet le Duc: Dictionnaire raisonné du mobilier Français, 1858–75.
Wright, T.: Caricature and History of the Georges, 1868.
William of Malmesbury.
I
A
GENERAL
SURVEY
"You see two individuals, one dressed in fine Red, the other in coarse threadbare Blue: Red says to Blue: 'Be hanged and anatomised;' Blue hears with a shudder, and (O wonder of wonders!) marches sorrowfully to the gallows; is there noosed-up, vibrates his hour, and the surgeons dissect him, and fit his bones into a skeleton for medical purposes. How is this; or what make ye of your Nothing can act but where it is? Red has no physical hold of Blue, no clutch of him, is nowise in contact with him: neither are those ministering Sheriffs and Lord-Lieutenants and Hangmen and Tipstaves so related to commanding Red, that he can tug them hither and thither; but each stands distinct within his own skin. Nevertheless as it is spoken so it is done; the articulated Word sets all hands in action; and Rope and Improved-drop perform their work.