Populace—Death of the Governor—A New Governor—Intrigues and another Poll-tax—Popular Refusal—Preparations for Rebellion—The Water cut off—The Edict withdrawn—Again a Poll-tax—The Nobles head the Insurrection—Blockade of Nikosia—Again the Tax withdrawn—Arrival of a New Governor—Disappointed Hopes—Proposals—Order again restored—The Poll-tax again demanded—General Revolt—Attack on Famagusta—Siege of Nikosia—Eastern Wiles—Mediation by English Consul—Fighting continued—Arrival of Corsairs—A strong Argument—Arrival of Special Envoy to compel Order—Deserters from the Rebel Camp—Rebels retire to Keryneia—The Castle besieged—An Open-hearted Turkish Sailor!—Betrayal of Halil Aga—Capitulation—Smiles—Treacherous Execution—Two Hundred salted Heads—Order restored
Expedition to ascend Olympus—No Information to be obtained—Neglected Districts—Game—Prompt Action of my Zaptieh—Faithful obedience of Mussulman Servants—Akazi—Easter—Fasting extraordinary—Abstinence of the Greeks—Heat
Cool Waters—Evrychu—In Church—Healthy Population—Graceful and interesting Customs—Greek Houses—Our Host and his Family—An Easter Dinner—Classic Christian Names—Absence of large Trees—Cypriote Clergy
83
CHAPTER XI.
MOUNT OLYMPUS.
A Mountain Pass—Lost our Way—Heroism of the Dragoman!—Sight of a Glacier—Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain—Dragoman again! who fairly bolts—Horses and Zaptieh left behind—Heavy Work in the Snow—Scene from the Summit—Alone!—No Trace of Ruins
Descent of Olympus—A Retrospect—The busy Phœnicians—Shipbuilders for the Euphrates—The Goddess Astarte—The New Religion—Trojan War, the first Struggle between East and West—Grecian Warrior Colonists—Evidence of Ancient Inscriptions—The Nine Kingdoms of Cyprus—Attacks by Continental Nations—Cyprus appealed to for Assistance—The Cyprian Navy—Philip of Macedon—Alexander the Great—Cyprian Shipwrights on the Indus—Artisans of Cyprus—Ptolemies—An Egyptian Ruler—Cyprus a Roman Province—Under Roman Dominion—Aphroditissa—The Idol Stone—Little Images of the Madonna—Revolution of the Jews—Great Slaughter—A Land of Saints
Dangerous Ground—Disappointment—Easter-Eve Festivities—An Official Menace—Hear of a Gentleman—Demons and Kobolds—Fini—Arrival—Stable Accommodation—The Dragoman again—Hunger—Cloister Rations—Wine makes the Heart Glad—A Village Congregation—After Mass—Hospitality of the Church—Beautiful Girls—Doctors required—Fasting—Precious Relic—Russian Gift—The Picture endowed with Healing Powers—Gratitude—Mountains and Trees—Heat—Shepherds
Neglect of Forests—Preservation by former Rulers—Gradual Destruction—Shipbuilding—Exportation of Timber—Wanton Destruction—Forest Fires—Resin and Pitch—Process of extracting Resin—Suicidal Revenge—Protection required—British Legislation—The late Governor of Cyprus—Sad Prospect for the Island—Eucalyptus
Locusts in olden Times—An Egyptian Plague for Two Years—Gradual Increase—Young Locusts—Devastation—Energy of Turkish Pacha—Troops are called out—A Remedy is found—M. Mattei—The Locusts effectually stopped
Rivers of Southern Cyprus—Rippling Waters—View of the Monastery of Kikku—A valuable Picture—Panagia—Wild Fruits—The Monks disturbed—Fine Figure of the Saviour—Carvings—Breakfast with the Abbot—Deserted State of the Country—Robbers—Alarm of the Servants—Prisons—Execution of Criminals—An interesting Prisoner—A Cypriote Robin Hood—Dowries to a Thousand Girls—A romantic Thief—Prison Life—Stalwart Monks—Turkish Women—Miserable Huts—Approach to Paphos—Ktima—Advent of Venus
130
CHAPTER XVII.
THE TEMPLE OF VENUS.
Bishop of Baffo—View of the Ruins—Gigantic Stones—Old Temple—Curious Holes in Stones, producing Echo—Mosaics—Sacrificial Rites—The Idol Stone—Ruins of former City—View from the Temple—An Admirer of Sappho—A Turkish Farmer—Queen’s Cave—An inscribed Stone Slab—Rock-cut Tombs—Watch-tower—Dinner: Bill-of-Fare—A Turkish Housewife—Nocturnal Reflections—Worship of Venus—Holy Cloth for the Caaba—The Cone-shaped Stones—Doves of Venus—Meteoric Stones
Donkeys and Mules—Muleteers—Starting on a Journey—Mounted!—Commissariat of Travelling Cypriote—General Cesnola—Village of Dali—Out-door Nights in Summer—A delightful Retreat
