Our Girls. Dio Lewis
over the sole, it makes the foot look big; but if the sole be large enough to let the foot rest in its natural relations, it looks much smaller. We men wear boots, often, with broad soles that project well on both sides. Such boots are thought to be particularly stylish.
ECONOMY OF WIDE SOLES.
"Another advantage may be mentioned for the benefit of those who study economy. Such shoes will not only keep in shape, but they will last two or three times as long as those with narrow soles. The uppers, not being stretched, as they are with narrow soles, will, if of good stock, almost never wear out, while the soles will remain square and even.
"I have spoken of the advantage of a greatly improved circulation, which would result from the introduction of the wide soles. I may add that the change which would at once appear in the manner of walking, would strike every beholder.
THICKNESS OF THE SOLES.
"The soles of girls' boots and shoes should be thick. They are not always to remain upon carpets, but they must go out doors and walk on the ground.
"Some people seem, somehow, to suppose that girls do not really step on the ground, but that, in some sort of spiritual way, they pass along just above the damp, unclean earth. But, as a matter of fact, girls do step on the ground just like boys. I have frequently walked behind them to test this point, and have noticed that when the ground is soft, they make tracks, and thus demonstrate the existence of an actual, material body.
"Now, while this is the case, and while it is indispensable to their health that they go much in the open air, they must have thick soles. Let these be made of the hardest and most impervious leather. It is well, in addition, during eight months of the year, to have the bottoms of the soles covered either with a sheet of rubber, or simply covered with a spreading of some of the liquid rubber, which will remain two or three weeks, and protect the sole from dampness.
OF WHAT SHALL THE UPPERS OF GIRLS' BOOTS BE COMPOSED?
"During the cold and damp months they should be made of thick, solid leather. No matter about the name; some calfskin is very thin, while morocco is often very thick. During the warm season they may wear for uppers prunella, or other cloth."
This much was spoken to my girls. I might leave the shape and width of the heel to the intelligence of the reader; but as the most preposterous heels have been recently introduced, it is perhaps judicious to point out the physiological mischief. The heels of the fashionable ladies' shoes at the present moment—quarter past three, P.M., August 4th, 1870—are two inches high, and at the bottom not larger than an old-fashioned silver quarter of a dollar, if anybody can remember how large that was.
Need it be argued that this absurd fashion weakens the ankle, and jams the toes into the sharp points of the boots?
If a woman were to walk as much as her health requires, with those most unphysiological heels, her feet would soon be crippled. The ankle, the heel, the arch of the foot and the toes must all suffer. It need hardly be said that heels should be broad, long and low. The great advantage in elasticity and firmness which would come at once in the manner of walking, would, even as to stylishness, more than compensate for the absence of the fashionable Shanghai heels.
SHOULD THE SHOE SUPPORT THE ANKLE?
Shoes of a peculiar structure have been employed to support the ankle. Medical men have even advised the introduction of brass, or other metallic straps, to be laced in the shoe about the ankle, to give support in walking. The ordinary shoe is made so as to fit the ankle very closely, under the impression that thereby the ankle is supported. This is an error. If the ankles were to be used but a day or a week, such support might serve; but as no one intends to rely permanently upon such artificial support, and as any pressure checks the circulation and the development of the parts, so a lacing to the ankle, as a lacing about the chest, may feel comfortable and give a sense of support for the time being, but, in either case, will, in the long run, only produce absorption and weakness. The ankle joint should be left entirely without ligature, without any pressure, and by exercise be developed into a self-supporting institution.
If this were the place, I would give special directions for bathing the ankle joints in cold water, morning and evening, and rubbing them hard with the naked hands, if they are weak and need special support.
RUBBER BOOTS AND SHOES.
On the subject of rubber boots and shoes much has been said, and well said. There can be no doubt that india-rubber boots are mischievous; but I have at length reached the conclusion that the injury is less than the constant in-door life among girls and women which would result from an abandonment of the rubber protections. The prejudice against such leather boots as would, alone, prove adequate to our climate, is so determined, that I think it my duty, in discussing the subject of shoes for girls, to advise that, in this climate, every girl should have a pair of india-rubber over- shoes, of the arctic or sandal pattern, and a pair of large-sized, long-legged rubber boots for the roughest weather.
They should never be worn except when the streets are in a condition absolutely requiring them, and should not be kept on, in the house. If these rules be carefully observed, and, during the season of the year when rubbers are worn, the feet are frequently washed in cold water, and rubbed hard with rough towels, hair gloves and the naked hand, they may be protected against the injurious influence of the rubber boots and shoes.
HOW GIRLS SHOULD WALK.
A good many years ago—let me look in the glass again—never use hair dye—yes, a great many years ago, I was studying my profession in a medical office with several other students. Just below stood a book-bindery, and a little above, the residence of a poor widow. A girl of twenty years passed backward and forward, from one to the other, several times a day. Very rarely did she pass our office without one or more of us observing her. Very natural, you say. But you don't understand me. She was not a handsome girl. Her dress was of the plainest calico, and, I suppose on account of her occupation, it was not always clean. But, nevertheless, she was one of our staple attractions.
Our office was on the main street, and above us were the residences of the rich. Hundreds of girls with handsome faces and rich dresses passed every day, but we were not on the lookout for them. It was only the book-binding girl that drew us to the window.
One of our fellows would cry out, "Here she goes. Come quick, John; quick, Henry."
Curious, wasn't it?
And what do you suppose so excited our interest?
She walked well! Ah! I can see her now! What a queen!
Queenly, we exclaim, with reference to a certain manner of walking. We never say queenly mouth, or queenly eyes, or queenly nose. The word is applied only to a certain style of personal carriage. When we see a woman pass, carrying her head and shoulders in a peculiar way, stepping off in a grand, elastic style, the word queenly leaps to every lip.
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