The Rocky Mountain Wonderland. Enos A. Mills

The Rocky Mountain Wonderland - Enos A. Mills


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Park Photograph by John K. Sherman. 104 At the Edge of the Arctic-Alpine Life Zone in the San Juan Mountains Photograph by George L. Beam. 116 A Western Yellow Pine 126 Crystal Lake; a Typical Glacier Lake 150 Trapper's Lake 158 Cricket, the Return Horse, at the Summit of the Pass 172 Looking Eastward from Lizard Head 180 Overgrown Cones in the Heart of a Lodge-Pole Pine Photograph by Herbert W. Gleason. 222 A Mountain Park in the San Juan Mountains 230 Capitol Peak and Snow Mass Mountain from Galena Park, Colorado Photograph by L. C. McClure, Denver. 242 A Deer in Deep Snow, Rocky Mountain National Park 260 Entertaining a Chipmunk Caller Photograph by Frank C. Ervin. 278 Pike's Peak from the Top of Cascade Cañon Photograph by Photo-Craft Shop, Colorado Springs. 296 The Continental Divide near Estes Park 314 Long's Peak from Loch Vale Photograph by George C. Barnard. 322 Map of the Rocky Mountain National Park 336 Estes Park Entrance to the Rocky Mountain National Park Photograph by Mrs. M. K. Sherman. 340 The Fall River Road across the Continental Divide in the Rocky Mountain National Park Photograph by W. T. Parke. 344

      Except as otherwise noted the illustrations are

       from photographs by the author.

      Going to the Top

       Table of Contents

      The seven football-players who engaged me to guide them to the top of Long's Peak did not reveal their identity until we were on the way. Long's Peak, high, massive, and wildly rugged, is the king of the Rocky Mountains, and there were five thousand feet of altitude and seven steeply inclined miles between our starting-point and the granite-piled summit.

      We set out on foot. The climbers yelled, threw stones, and wrestled. They were so occupied with themselves during the first mile that I managed to keep them from running over me. Presently they discovered me and gave a cheer, and then proceeded energetically with the evident intention of killing me off.

      It was fortunate for me that the experience of more than a hundred guiding trips to the summit was a part of my equipment. In addition to the valuable lessons that had been dearly learned in guiding, I had made dozens of trips to the summit before offering my services as guide. I had made climbs in every kind of weather to familiarize myself thoroughly with the way to the top. These trips—always alone—were first made on clear days, then on stormy ones, and finally at night. When I was satisfied that I could find the trail under the worst conditions, endurance tests were made. One of these consisted in making a quick round trip, then, after only a few minutes' rest, shouldering thirty or forty pounds of supplies and hastening to the rescue of an imaginary climber ill on the summit.

      Besides two seasons of this preliminary experience, the rocks, glacial records, birds, trees, and flowers along the trail were studied, other peaks climbed, and books concerning mountain-climbing diligently read. But long before my two hundred and fifty-seven guiding trips were completed, I found myself ignorant of one of the most important factors in guiding, and perhaps, too, in life—and that is human nature.

      Several climbs had been made simply to learn the swiftest pace I could maintain from bottom to summit without a rest. Thus ably coached by experience, I steadied to the work when my noisy football-players started to run away from me. Each player in turn briefly set a hot pace, and in a short time they were ahead of me. Even though they guyed me unmercifully, I refused to be hurried and held to the swiftest pace that I knew could be maintained. Two hours raised us through thirty-five hundred feet of altitude and advanced us five miles. We were above the timber-line, and, though some distance behind the boys, I could tell they were tiring. Presently the guide was again in the lead!

      By-and-by one of the boys began to pale, and presently he turned green around the mouth. He tried desperately to bluff it off, but ill he was. In a few minutes he had to quit, overcome with nausea. A moment later another long-haired brave tumbled down. On the others went, but three more were dropped along the trail, and only two of those husky, well-trained athletes reached the summit! That evening, when those sad fellows saw me start off to guide another party up by moonlight, they concluded that I must be a wonder; but as a matter of fact, being an invalid, I had learned something of conservation. This experience fixed in my mind the importance of climbing slowly.

      Hurriedly climbing a rugged peak is a dangerous pastime. Trail hurry frequently produces sickness. A brief dash may keep a climber agitated for an hour. During this time he will waste his strength doing things the wrong way—often, too, annoying or endangering the others.

      Finding a way to get climbers to go slowly was a problem that took me time to solve. Early in the guiding game the solution was made impossible by trying to guide large parties and by not knowing human nature. Once accomplished, slow going on the trail noticeably decreased the cases of mountain-sickness, greatly reduced the number of quarrels, and enabled almost all starters to gain the height desired. Slow climbing added pleasure to the trip and enabled every one to return in good form and with splendid pictures in his mind.

      To keep the party together—for the tendency of climbers is to scatter, some traveling rapidly and others slowly—it became my practice to stop occasionally and tell a story, comment on a bit of scenery, or relate an incident that had occurred near by. As I spoke in a low tone, the climbers ahead shouting "Hurry up!" and the ones behind calling "Wait!" could not hear me. This method kept down friction and usually held the party together. With a large party, however, confusion sometimes arose despite my efforts to anticipate it.

      Hoping to get valuable climbing suggestions, I told my experiences


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