The Practical Garden-Book. L. H. Bailey
its long stems makes a very desirable variety for cut-flowers. In fact, in the rich, mellow soil in which Asters delight, this variety is likely to have its large flowers on stems so long and slender that the plants will need stakes.
The Victoria Asters hold a well deserved place among the leading varieties, and with high culture will generally lead in size and profusion of bloom, the colors ranging from white to the darkest blue. The plants are also well adapted to pot culture. The chrysanthemum-flowered Asters, both tall and dwarf, are excellent, as are the Truffaut Perfection and Peony-flowered. The Comet Asters are amongst the best. The New Branching type is now in great favor.
The culture of China Asters is easy. For early bloom the seeds should be sown in March in boxes of light soil and covered one-quarter of an inch with soil, the soil pressed down or firmed over them and the boxes placed in a hotbed or a sunny window and attention given to watering. When the seedlings are one inch high they should be transplanted to other boxes, setting the plants 3 inches apart or put into 2-inch pots. These should be again placed in a frame and grown along until the ground has become comparatively warm. The soil will need to be well enriched, mellow, and if slightly moist under the surface the results will be all that could be wished. Asters will grow fairly well on rather light soil, even if not very rich, but the best results can only be obtained when the highest culture is given. If the rust attacks the plants, spray with ammoniacal carbonate of copper.
Spray of wild Aster
Wild Asters
Aster, Native. Wild Asters are one of the glories of the American autumn. They grow almost everywhere in the north and east—along roadsides, in meadows and swales. Their colors range from pure white to pink, and purple, and blue. From August until winter closes in, they are conspicuous features of the landscape, vying with the goldenrods in form and color, but surpassing them in color-range. Most of them are greatly improved when transferred to the border. They become more attractive in general habit, and the flowers are usually more profuse and sometimes larger. They are of the easiest possible culture. They can be removed to home grounds in the fall or spring, and, with little care until they are established, will make most attractive displays of autumn color. The species are numerous and much confused, and it is not necessary to make a list of them here. Because of their free and careless habit, they are better adapted to planting in borders than in the formal flower beds.
Aubrietia deltoidea. A very handsome little trailing hardy perennial, covered with attractive purple flowers in early spring. Should be planted in masses for best effect. Propagated by cuttings or seeds, usually the latter. Excellent for rockwork and permanent low edgings.
Auricula. A half-hardy perennial of the Primrose tribe (Primula Auricula), very popular in Europe, but little grown in this country on account of the hot, dry summers. In this country usually propagated by seed, as for Cineraria; but special varieties are perpetuated by offsets. Seeds sown in February or March should give blooming plants for the next February or March. Keep the plants cool and moist, and away from the direct sun during the summer. Gardeners usually grow them in frames. In the fall, they are potted into 3-inch or 4-inch pots, and made to bloom either in frames as for violets or in a cool conservatory or greenhouse. In April, after blooming has ceased, repot the plants and treat as the previous year. From the best plants, offsets may be taken and treated the same as seedlings. As with most annual-blooming perennials, best results are to be expected with year-old or 2-year-old plants. Auriculas grow 6–8 in. high. Colors white and many shades of red and blue.
Azaleas are less grown in this country than in Europe, largely because of our hot, dry summers and severe winters. There are two common types or classes—the hardy or Ghent Azaleas, and the Indian Azaleas.
Ghent Azaleas thrive in the open along the seacoast as far north as southern New England. They require a sandy, peaty soil, and are treated as other shrubs are. The large flower-buds are liable to injury from the warm suns of late winter and early spring, and to avoid this injury the plants are often protected by covers or shades of brush. In the interior country, little attempt is made to flower Azaleas permanently in the open, although they may be grown if carefully tended and well protected. Both Ghent and Indian Azaleas are excellent pot-plants, for bloom in late winter and spring. The plants are imported in great numbers from Europe, and it is better to buy these plants than to attempt to propagate them. Pot them up in large-sized pots, keep them cool and backward for a time until they are established, then take them into a conservatory temperature, in which carnations and roses thrive. They should be potted in a soil made of half peat or well decayed mold and half rich loam; add a little sand. Pot firmly, and be sure to provide sufficient drainage. Keep off red spider by syringing. After blooming, the plants may be thinned by pruning out the straggling growths, and repotted. Set them in a frame or in a semi-shaded place during summer, and see that they make a good growth. The wood should be well ripened in the fall. After cold weather sets in, keep the Indian or evergreen kinds half-dormant by setting them in a cool, dull-lighted cellar or pit, bringing them in when wanted for bloom. The Ghent or deciduous kinds may be touched with frost without injury; and they may be stored in a cellar until wanted.
Bachelor’s Button. Centaurea Cyanus and also Gomphrena. Sometimes applied to double-flowered Crowfoots.
Balloon Vine
Balloon Vine, or Cardiospermum. Annual tender tendril climber of very rapid growth. Seed should not be planted until the soil becomes warm. A very pretty effect can be had by allowing the vine to run over some coarser vine, or into an evergreen tree. The balloon-like capsules show to good advantage between the leaves. It is also useful for covering piles of brush. Grows 8–12 ft. high. Give a warm, sunny place.
Balsams, or Impatiens. Tender annuals, producing both single and double flowers of many colors. These well known favorites are usually to be found in old-fashioned gardens. They are very likely to seed themselves, coming up in unexpected places and flourishing in neglect. They do best, however, in rich, sandy soil. If the seed is sown in boxes late in April and the plants transplanted several times they will be much dwarfer and the flowers much more double. A stately, though very formal and stiff, effect may be had by planting a row of Balsams in the rear of a low border, pinching off all the side shoots as they start and growing the plant to a single stem. This will become covered with the large blooms, giving it the appearance of a perfect column of flowers. Balsams are injured by the slightest frost. Seeds germinate quickly. Plants should stand 12–18 in. apart. They grow 18–30 in. high.
Bartonia. Hardy annual, with golden yellow, brilliant flowers. The tall-growing Bartonia (B. aurea) may be used in a mixed border to good advantage. It is a bushy plant, reaching 2–3 ft. high. The dwarf kind may be used as a border plant or in a rock garden, or as an edging. The fragrance of both tall and dwarf is very pronounced in the evening. The Bartonias are very easy to grow in a warm soil and sunny exposure. Their numerous thread-like, long stamens are very interesting.
Basket Plants. In order to have a good hanging basket, it is necessary that some provision be made to prevent too rapid drying out of the earth. It is customary, therefore, to line the pot or basket with moss. Open wire baskets, like a horse muzzle, are often lined with moss and used for the growing of plants. Prepare the earth by mixing some well decayed leaf-mold with rich garden loam, thereby making an earth which will retain moisture. Hang the basket in a light place, but still not in a direct sunlight; and, if possible, avoid putting it where it will be exposed to drying wind. In order to water the basket, it is often advisable to sink it into a pail or tub of water. Various plants are well adapted to hanging baskets. Among the drooping or vine-like kinds are the strawberry geranium, Kenilworth ivy, maurandya, German ivy, canary-bird flower, Asparagus Sprengeri, ivy geranium, trailing fuchsia, wandering Jew, and othonna. Among the erect-growing plants which produce flowers, Lobelia Erinus, sweet alyssum, petunias, oxalis, and various